Extension cord option

[Tangible]

…the other runs up to the ceiling and comes down mid garage for plug into the car.

What did you use to attach the cable to the ceiling? I was thinking about those hooks people used to use for swag lamp chains, with a big hook on one end and a toggle bolt on the other.

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[phidauex]

If the plan is to suspend the cable that makes it a little easier to swallow. Extension cords can be a problem for three main reasons:

1. The longer cable has more resistance, and more voltage drop under heavy load. Low voltage at the vehicle input increases current flow for the same power, and can heat up components more. If your voltage is already low at the house then it could also result in charge errors as the car sees too low a voltage and cancels the charge. This is probably not a big problem for most people, but it is worth thinking about.
2. Failure at the connectors - almost all cables fail at a termination point, not along their length. More cables means more connectors which means more places to fail. I wouldn't put the connectors right up against anything flammable, and give them a touch every so often during charging. If they are ever uncomfortably warm, time for a replacement.
3. Failure where the cable is damaged. Extension cords get walked on, driven on, nailed to the wall, etc. They are likely to fail in those locations. If you are carefully hanging the cable that mitigates this risk, but it is probably the main reason for the 25' rule in the code. Long cables are just going to get damaged more than shorter cables.

So all in, I still think you should look into moving the outlet, but as long as you are keeping the above things in mind I think you'll be OK with an extension.

 

[mccdeuce]

What did you use to attach the cable to the ceiling? I was thinking about those hooks people used to use for swag lamp chains, with a big hook on one end and a toggle bolt on the other.

I used conduit clamps to hold the majority of the cable to the ceiling. the. Used bicycle hooks to hold the end So I could easily loop it off the ground when not in use. I wanted a retract but could not figure a way for the retract to not pull on the end once plugged in.

 

[Maquis]

I would not use an extension cord for more than temporary use. If it’s not long enough then you need to have an electrician move the 14-50 outlet. UL requirements on EVSEs limit input cord to less than 1’ and charging cord to less than 25’.

The NEC actually allows up to a 6’ input cord on EVSEs, but if longer than 1’, the cord must include a GFCI within 1’ of the plug. Most manufacturers just supply a 1’ cord.

 

[Tangible]

So if I choose to move the outlet, is there any reason I can't do it myself? I'm very familiar with 120V wiring projects, including snaking Romex cable through walls. Do 240V projects require a different skill set?

 

[HuntingPudel]

So if I choose to move the outlet, is there any reason I can't do it myself? I'm very familiar with 120V wiring projects, including snaking Romex cable through walls. Do 240V projects require a different skill set?

Same skill set. You just need to be aware of insulation types, protection of the conductors (plenum or conduit), mechanical support of the run, etc. ??

 

[ripperAZ]

LOL
This is one of the many reasons we have fire insurance. But I would not tell your agent your plans ?‍???
Make sure yours is updated if you throw a extension cord over a rafter in your garage…..
Seriously ….not recommended
Jes sayin

 

[ZuleMME]

EV Dave actually has a video in which he explores using extensions for a Tesla and the Tesla monitors the line level voltage and dynamically adjusts it's amperage if it detects too high of voltage drop. I wonder what the Mach-E would do. Too bad it's software sucks so badly it wouldn't even tell us if it adjusted it. We'd have to use a clamp meter or custom EVSE to find out.

That said, extensions are just extending the 240v section of the run. So if your cable size is big enough for the distance you want overall (including wiring from panel to outlet) it should be safe.

 

[Tangible]

Thinking more carefully about moving the outlet myself, I guess I need to consider the list of "Sh*t You Shouldn't Do After Age 75", which probably should include working over your head on a ladder while wrestling heavy 6/3 cables.

Even buying the cable is a problem, because it seems to be sold in 25' minimums, for hundreds of dollars, when I need only about ten feet.

I guess it's time to call the electrician. What I REALLY want, though, is a wireless charging pad that I can just drive onto. Next car, I guess, if I don't kill myself doing imprudent DIY projects first.

 

[bruceski88]

I’m currently using a Grizzl-e charging station plugged in to a 50:amp 14-50 outlet, and I need to get more length.

I’ve seen extension cords for sale for both the power side and the car side of the charger. Please help me choose among:

1. Use a cord to extend the power outlet.
2. Use a cord to extend the charger-to-car cable.
3. Don’t do it; the warnings in the MME manual aren’t just nannyism, they’re serious.

I believe Grizzle sells a longer cord at 24’. maybe just buy and install a longer cord

 

[mccdeuce]

Thinking more carefully about moving the outlet myself, I guess I need to consider the list of "Sh*t You Shouldn't Do After Age 75", which probably should include working over your head on a ladder while wrestling heavy 6/3 cables.

Even buying the cable is a problem, because it seems to be sold in 25' minimums, for hundreds of dollars, when I need only about ten feet.

I guess it's time to call the electrician. What I REALLY want, though, is a wireless charging pad that I can just drive onto. Next car, I guess, if I don't kill myself doing imprudent DIY projects first.

not hard to do yourself.
If you are doing a relatively straight shot you could use NM-B inside the conduit. Don’t try to pull it through turns. 10ft section min. Always give yourself some buffer though. Buy 12ft.

https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/6-3-w-g-nm-b-wire-black

 

[AKgrampy]

I used conduit clamps to hold the majority of the cable to the ceiling. the. Used bicycle hooks to hold the end So I could easily loop it off the ground when not in use. I wanted a retract but could not figure a way for the retract to not pull on the end once plugged in.

I am going to try a tool balance retractor. It seems to not have much force at the charge height but I won’t know for sure until I test it out when my car arrives.

 

[AKgrampy]

Thinking more carefully about moving the outlet myself, I guess I need to consider the list of "Sh*t You Shouldn't Do After Age 75", which probably should include working over your head on a ladder while wrestling heavy 6/3 cables.

Even buying the cable is a problem, because it seems to be sold in 25' minimums, for hundreds of dollars, when I need only about ten feet.

I guess it's time to call the electrician. What I REALLY want, though, is a wireless charging pad that I can just drive onto. Next car, I guess, if I don't kill myself doing imprudent DIY projects first.

You can also get heavy duty cable protector that lays on the floor and you can drive over. Seen them available on Amazon.

 

[bshaw]

I have a Grizzl-E duo, and I have done something similar with one of my cables. the EVSE is mounted at the garage door. One cable is run outside, the other runs up to the ceiling and comes down mid garage for plug into the car.

theres nothing that says you cannot have the EVSE mounted on the ceiling.
move the outlet is your best solution.

+1 for the grizzl-e duo. I have mine centrally mounted on the ceiling in a 2-bay garage. Should be flexible to reach different sides of both cars if future models have their charge port in a different place than the MME.

 

[Tangible]

My problem with mounting at the center of the ceiling is what to do with the cable when it’s not in use. My garage has no dividers in the center, just a big open space.

I saw a reference to a tool balance, but with 24’ of cable I don’t see how that could work.

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