Ford's Connected Charge Station

Billyk24

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50 amp breaker on a nema 1450 outlet is going to produce like 29 miles of range per hour opposed to the 32 miles per hour range with the hardwired outlet 60 amp breaker. It isn't cost effect for you to make such a change.
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50 amp breaker on a nema 1450 outlet is going to produce like 29 miles of range per hour opposed to the 32 miles per hour range with the hardwired outlet 60 amp breaker. It isn't cost effect for you to make such a change.
I'm pretty sure the included mobile connector for the NEMA 14-50 maxes out at 32A for a charge rate of 22 miles of range per hour. The hardwired charger takes advantage of the 60A breaker for the 48A charge rate of 32 miles of range per hour. 22mi is basically all you need for daily use.
 

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I have used the Black and Decker book of home wiring to do my own wiring, you can get a permit to do your own work and have it inspected afterwards, which can potentially save a lot on installation. If you are a DIY type this may be an option. When I bought our home it had a 14-50 outlet connected to a 50A breaker, I'm debating about getting a bigger breaker and wiring so I could use the 48A charger, but since i have a juicebox 40 already its probably not worth the expense even if I sell the juicebox.
I've done some of my own home wiring, even new breakers from the panel years ago, but only on 110v which is more straightforward. As long as I could get an electrician to do it for a reasonable price, I'd rather pay a few hundred more to have an expert do it. (At least I hope it's just hundreds.) Plus I'm not sure if a permit is required and what local code is for a garage circuit.
 

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I'm pretty sure the included mobile connector for the NEMA 14-50 maxes out at 32A for a charge rate of 22 miles of range per hour. The hardwired charger takes advantage of the 60A breaker for the 48A charge rate of 32 miles of range per hour. 22mi is basically all you need for daily use.
You can use a clipper creek cable other than Fords and have a higher miles per hour range.
 

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I have used the Black and Decker book of home wiring to do my own wiring, you can get a permit to do your own work and have it inspected afterwards, which can potentially save a lot on installation. If you are a DIY type this may be an option. When I bought our home it had a 14-50 outlet connected to a 50A breaker, I'm debating about getting a bigger breaker and wiring so I could use the 48A charger, but since i have a juicebox 40 already its probably not worth the expense even if I sell the juicebox.
If your wiring is big enough for the 60amp circuit getting a bigger breaker wouldn't cost you more than 20 bucks. And if you're willing to wire the new wall mount it's probably gonna cost you 300 if you could sell your current evse for 200. Doesn't hurt to have a backup or put a plug in the circuit to be able to swap between the two provided you can find stuff with a rating that high. That part I'm not familiar enough with.
 


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Both the 50A 14-50 outlet and the hardwired 48A charger both require #6 wire. Hardwired only needs 2 power lines and ground. The outlet also needs a neutral. The big issue I found is that the new electric code requires a GFI breaker for an outlet. A plug in charger sends a single that may trip the GFI breaker on an outlet, according to one quote I received. Also a hardwired charger only needs a simple $20 breaker as it relies on the GFI in the charger. I confirmed this with Grizzl-e

I would also recommend the Black and Decker book, have done 2 electrical projects and it helped me. Passed both inspections on the first try. Inspectors here in Sunnyvale CA spend more time on homeowner jobs, but they will not go under the house or into the attic. I personally have had more trouble getting the job done right with electricians than doing the job myself.

I need to get my panel replaced for several reasons. I plan to get a contractor because it would take me at least a week to do it myself and the power would be out.

I have a permit and plan to do my vacation house as I only need to run 3-4’ of wire to the charger and everything is in the garage. Looking at a Grizzl-e right now- don’t see that 48A vs 40A charging with a more expensive solution is worth it.
 

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Both the 50A 14-50 outlet and the hardwired 48A charger both require #6 wire. Hardwired only needs 2 power lines and ground. The outlet also needs a neutral. The big issue I found is that the new electric code requires a GFI breaker for an outlet. A plug in charger sends a single that may trip the GFI breaker on an outlet, according to one quote I received. Also a hardwired charger only needs a simple $20 breaker as it relies on the GFI in the charger. I confirmed this with Grizzl-e

I would also recommend the Black and Decker book, have done 2 electrical projects and it helped me. Passed both inspections on the first try. Inspectors here in Sunnyvale CA spend more time on homeowner jobs, but they will not go under the house or into the attic. I personally have had more trouble getting the job done right with electricians than doing the job myself.

I need to get my panel replaced for several reasons. I plan to get a contractor because it would take me at least a week to do it myself and the power would be out.

I have a permit and plan to do my vacation house as I only need to run 3-4’ of wire to the charger and everything is in the garage. Looking at a Grizzl-e right now- don’t see that 48A vs 40A charging with a more expensive solution is worth it.
Caveat emptor: I'm not an electrician.

NEC prescribes different minimum gauge requirements based on the type, length, and ambient temperature for the wire. Where I live, 6-gauge THHN might be suitable for a 60A circuit (and requires suitable conduit, too, btw), but 6-gauge NM-B/romex is not suitable.

Where are you seeing a requirement for a GFI breaker on a 50 or 60-amp, 240V circuit?

I think that most of the high quality EVSEs recommend against using circuits that have upstream GFI protection because they will false trip, and the EVSEs have their own protection built in.

The only exception I've noticed is for Ford's mobile charger, where GFI is "recommended." But I am wondering if it is a mistake. For instance, for the Connected Charge Station that is detailed in the same PDF file, they were recommending GFI as well and then a month later they issued an updated document that very clearly said not to use GFI as it will cause issues.

With the mobile charger, the only case where I could see GFI being recommended (or possibly even required in some places) is when the charger is used on a 120V, 15/20A circuit, rather than on 240V circuits.
 

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Caveat emptor: I'm not an electrician.

NEC prescribes different minimum gauge requirements based on the type, length, and ambient temperature for the wire. Where I live, 6-gauge THHN might be suitable for a 60A circuit (and requires suitable conduit, too, btw), but 6-gauge NM-B/romex is not suitable.

Where are you seeing a requirement for a GFI breaker on a 50 or 60-amp, 240V circuit?

I think that most of the high quality EVSEs recommend against using circuits that have upstream GFI protection because they will false trip, and the EVSEs have their own protection built in.

The only exception I've noticed is for Ford's mobile charger, where GFI is "recommended." But I am wondering if it is a mistake. For instance, for the Connected Charge Station that is detailed in the same PDF file, they were recommending GFI as well and then a month later they issued an updated document that very clearly said not to use GFI as it will cause issues.

With the mobile charger, the only case where I could see GFI being recommended (or possibly even required in some places) is when the charger is used on a 120V, 15/20A circuit, rather than on 240V circuits.
Yes you are correct EV chargers recommend against GFI circuits. I was quoted by a local contractor that 2020 electric code requires GFI circuit breakers on outlets in the garage. I have 2 more coming for estimates and will see if they corroborate l would only use stranded like THHN for yhis high current project. Even for Solar Panels we are required to use THHN #10.
 

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Yes you are correct EV chargers recommend against GFI circuits. I was quoted by a local contractor that 2020 electric code requires GFI circuit breakers on outlets in the garage. I have 2 more coming for estimates and will see if they corroborate l would only use stranded like THHN for yhis high current project. Even for Solar Panels we are required to use THHN #10.
My understanding (only working for an electrical supply distributor, not any sort of electrician), is that GFCI's are required for most outlets in garages, but generally not if it is a dedicated circuit (breaker only supplies a single appliance/receptacle).

Just like your fridge in the kitchen - kitchens require GFCI, but you'd not want one on your fridge (if it tripped while you were away, bye-bye food). So fridges on their own dedicated circuit (as they should be anyways) don't require a GFCI outlet.

This obviously may not apply everywhere, but I'd refrain from a GFCI outlet/breaker for my EVSE if at all possible.
 

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Had a master electrician install a new breaker box and 50 amp 240v line which did not need a gcfi.
 

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It does apply if you are installing an outlet. Some jurisdictions may not follow it you would have to ask but it is a requirement for electric vehicles. The 2020 requirement is for all outlets in garages to have gfci 120v and 240v included so if you did not say it was for an EV than it would not require gfci under the NEC 2017 code but it would under the 2020 code. The part where it says 150 volts to ground applies to 240v because it is two legs of 120 volts. Of course if your inspector passes you then you are good but it is in the NEC.




Here is the part of the NEC 2017 that applies to EVs.

625.54 Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Personnel. All single-phase receptacles installed for the connection of electric vehicle charging that are rated 150 volts to ground or less, and 50 amperes or less shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel.



Here is all the 207 code that applies to EVs

625.44 Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment Connection. Electric vehicle supply equipment shall be permitted to be cord- and plug-connected to the premises wiring system in accordance with one of the following:
(A) Connections to 125-Volt, Single-Phase, 15- and 20-Ampere Receptacle Outlets.Electric vehicle supply equipment intended for connection to nonlocking, 2-pole, 3-wire grounding-type receptacle outlets rated at 125 V, single phase, 15 and 20 amperes or from a supply of less than 50 volts dc.
(B) Connections to Other Receptacle Outlets. Electric vehicle supply equipment that is rated 250 V maximum and complying with all of the following:
(1) It is intended for connection to nonlocking, 2-pole, 3-wire and 3-pole, 4-wire, grounding-type receptacle outlets rated not more than 50 amperes.
(2) EVSE is fastened in place to facilitate any of the following:

  1. Ready removal for interchange
  2. Facilitation of maintenance and repair
  3. Repositioning of portable, movable, or EVSE fastened in place
(3) Power-supply cord length for electric vehicle supply equipment fastened in place is limited to 1.8 m (6 ft).
(4) Receptacles are located to avoid physical damage to the flexible cord.
All other electric vehicle supply equipment shall be permanently wired and fastened in place to the supporting surface, a wall, a pole, or other structure. The electric vehicle supply equipment shall have no exposed live parts.

625.44(A) Portable Equipment. Portable equipment shall be connected to the premises wiring systems by one or more of the following methods:
(1) A nonlocking, 2-pole, 3-wire grounding-type receptacle outlet rated at 125 volts, single phase, 15 or 20 amperes
(2) A nonlocking, 2-pole, 3-wire grounding-type receptacle outlet rated at 250 volts, single phase, 15 or 20 amperes
(3) A nonlocking, 2-pole, 3-wire or 3-pole, 4-wire grounding-type receptacle outlet rated at 250 volts, single phase, 30 or 50 amperes
(4) A nonlocking, 2-pole, 3-wire grounding-type receptacle outlet rated at 60 volts dc maximum, 15 or 20 amperes
The length of the power supply cord, if provided, between the receptacle outlet and the equipment shall be in accordance with 625.17(A) (3).
2. Add a new 625.54 to read as follows:
625.54 Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Personnel. All single-phase receptacles installed for the connection of electric vehicle charging that are rated 150 volts to ground or less, and 50 amperes or less shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel.
3. Add a new 625.56 to read as follows:
625.56 Receptacle Enclosures. All receptacles installed in a wet location for electric vehicle charging shall have an enclosure that is weatherproof with the attachment plug cap inserted or removed
 

dbsb3233

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Had a master electrician install a new breaker box and 50 amp 240v line which did not need a gcfi.
Same here. The Grizzl-E (with plug) explicitly says do not use a GFCI circuit, since GFCI protection is built into the unit.
 

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In case any of you are preparing wiring for the Connected Charge Station but not installing it until later, you may find this helpful.

The Ford Parts web site is loaded up with some of the replacement parts that consumers can buy for Mustang Mach-E. This includes the removable cover from the Connected Charge Station.

Ignore the price (WTF?!) but take a look at the diagram showing the mounting plate for the charger.

This answers one of the questions I had about it, regarding whether the J-box needs to be mounted to the left or to the right of a stud in order to flush mount the charger. From the mounting plate we can see there are two back-mount plugs that can be cut out, one on either side of its middle point. Plus the charger itself can be mounted to the stud along its left, middle, or right. So there are plenty of options to suit different situations.

Anyway, just a bit of info and a bit of relief for me.

Ford Mustang Mach-E Ford's Connected Charge Station 1606494989262
 

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Anyone have an update on whether Ford has started shipping these yet? My order status is still "Processing"?
 

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Anyone have an update on whether Ford has started shipping these yet? My order status is still "Processing"?
I’m glad you asked. I checked parts.ford.com and my order says “Completed”. “Order ready for pickup at dealer.” So, I’ll be giving them a call today.

Update: Dealer said they haven't received it yet.
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