Getting really really PI**ED OFF

[Caliroute1]

I tried on one of them. Didn’t find a lot but do guide me if you know one. These faults are from default home chargers and not DC fast charging.

Trying to get some ? for solutions if you let me

I asked the tech about home charger and the travel charger that came with the car. The tech is adamt that is not the problem. But yesterday I was reading a post from someone who had a charger issue and switched to the grizzly and their problems seemed to be resolved.

I am quite sure that ford is working on these and other issues. They have sunk billions to get ev off the ground and they are going to have issues. I spoke to a friend that has a Tesla and they have a lot of issues too

keep researching and investigating. I love everybody’s feedback it helps me to remain calm and learn more about the car

a few tech guys and gals have showed me a lot so far.

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[ohmslaw]

. I was told by the dealership to drain it every so often. As low as possible and charge it back up to get the range.

That is for other battery chemistries with ‘memory’. NiMH and NiCad being most known for these effects. Basically you will have diminished capacity until a few full discharge recharge cycles.

Lithium based battery’s do show some memory effects; but it’s so minimal that you should not be concerned.

These batteries are happiest around 50% SoC. It’s even in the manual to leave the car at this state if being stored for some time.

 

[Caliroute1]

That is for other battery chemistries with ‘memory’. NiMH and NiCad being most known for these effects. Basically you will have diminished capacity until a few full discharge recharge cycles.

Lithium based battery’s do show some memory effects; but it’s so minimal that you should not be concerned.

These batteries are happiest around 50% SoC. It’s even in the manual to leave the car at this state if being stored for some time.

gasp. 50%? I don’t get full GT see ya effect at 50%. Lol

 

[DevSecOps]

I would really like to know how you are getting your information. Is this something readily available to non-tech types? I know last time in the shop that they replaced my 12v battery. I don’t see how keeping the car plugged in is going to solve the problems. I could be wrong and am more than willing to learn. I was told by the dealership to drain it every so often. As low as possible and charge it back up to get the range. I learned about how cold weather affects the range that I can completely agree with. Warmer weather my range increased. But I am not understanding why keeping the car plugged in would save the high voltage battery. Seems to me complete opposite would happen. If I am charged at my set point the car doesn’t accept any more juice. Like I said I am willing to learn but you seem to have some tools that I would love to be able to use

Ok, so here's my opinion which will probably rattle feathers. Just drive the car and charge it however you'd like. You had a RTE1 and you swapped it for a GT. The chance of you owning the car in 8 years is unlikely. The battery is warrantied against degradation beyond 70%. I charged my last EV to 100% every day and it recorded .5% degradation after 1.5 years. Sure there's suggested best practices which is stay above 12% and below 90% on a daily average.

The reason I think people were suggesting to keep it on the charger wasn't for the HVB it was because they thought the LVB was being maintained while the HVB was charging. While it does maintain it for a short period, it is not throughout the total charge. The LVB is also maintained while driving and if needed when the car is unplugged and turned off (at least it should).

I use a shunt and a device called powermon to monitor the 12V. I don't think it's normal or required to do so, but I like testing things out for the forum here and coming to my own conclusions. Most people don't want to spend $200 to monitor a battery. I also keep one of these in the car because I purposefully try to test the systems (Ford you didn't read that).

As for monitoring the HVB, you could do that with FDRS or even an OBDII reader like VeePeak but it would only be when powered off or when in range with your phone (respectively). I don't think there's a reason to monitor the HVB however because if it goes, you're just screwed.

 

[Caliroute1]

Ok, so here's my opinion which will probably rattle feathers. Just drive the car and charge it however you'd like. You had a RTE1 and you swapped it for a GT. The chance of you owning the car in 8 years is unlikely. The battery is warrantied against degradation beyond 70%. I charged my last EV to 100% every day and it recorded .5% degradation after 1.5 years. Sure there's suggested best practices which is stay above 12% and below 90% on a daily average.

The reason I think people were suggesting to keep it on the charger wasn't for the HVB it was because they thought the LVB was being maintained while the HVB was charging. While it does maintain it for a short period, it is not throughout the total charge. The LVB is also maintained while driving and if needed when the car is unplugged and turned off (at least it should).

I use a shunt and a device called powermon to monitor the 12V. I don't think it's normal or required to do so, but I like testing things out for the forum here and coming to my own conclusions. Most people don't want to spend $200 to monitor a battery. I also keep one of these in the car because I purposefully try to test the systems (Ford you didn't read that).

As for monitoring the HVB, you could do that with FDRS or even an OBDII reader like VeePeak but it would only be when powered off or when in range with your phone (respectively). I don't think there's a reason to monitor the HVB however because if it goes, you're just screwed.

Lol eight years. Buddy I have shiny-itus. It’s a single man’s medical condition that I get distracted by new shiney things. IF I Actually manage to keep a car beyond two years my parents throw me a party and I am 53

FDRS? How did you access the maintenance records last night on my car. Is there a website or app?

 

[Logal727]

I asked the tech about home charger and the travel charger that came with the car. The tech is adamt that is not the problem. But yesterday I was reading a post from someone who had a charger issue and switched to the grizzly and their problems seemed to be resolved.

I am quite sure that ford is working on these and other issues. They have sunk billions to get ev off the ground and they are going to have issues. I spoke to a friend that has a Tesla and they have a lot of issues too

keep researching and investigating. I love everybody’s feedback it helps me to remain calm and learn more about the car

a few tech guys and gals have showed me a lot so far.

I would have eliminated the Ford charger as the problem before I took it to the dealer again. I’m noticing that’s the thing in common in a lot of these threads. Glad I installed a Grizzl-E and keep the mobile charger in the trunk.

 

[DevSecOps]

Lol eight years. Buddy I have shiny-itus. It’s a single man’s medical condition that I get distracted by new shiney things. IF I Actually manage to keep a car beyond two years my parents throw me a party and I am 53

FDRS? How did you access the maintenance records last night on my car. Is there a website or app?

I'm the same way, I will only have a car for 2-3 years max. So just drive the damn thing and charge however the heck you want.

FDRS requires a laptop, the OBDII adapter, a power supply and the license. Total comes to about $2k. Here's the thread if interested: https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...ach-e-with-fdrs-alternative-to-forscan.10217/

 

[ohmslaw]

Those of us that keep cars for 10+ years like to keep things in best shape. Just got rid of a 2008 last year and a 2005 in 2018. I need this battery to last that long. Battery degradation is also non-linear. Great you only had 0.5% degradation in 1.5 years; but that could have been 5% after 3, 10% after 4.5 etc.

This is the thread I was referring to.
https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...ing-pre-warming-update-possibly-coming.13850/

A run-in with an engineer stated to not let HVB battery below 12% as the LVB is no longer maintained.

 

[Caliroute1]

I'm the same way, I will only have a car for 2-3 years max. So just drive the damn thing and charge however the heck you want.

FDRS requires a laptop, the OBDII adapter, a power supply and the license. Total comes to about $2k. Here's the thread if interested: https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...ach-e-with-fdrs-alternative-to-forscan.10217/

Wait wait pump the brakes. Is that what you used to access my vehicle records last night That is what I am interested in

 

[DevSecOps]

Wait wait pump the brakes. Is that what you used to access my vehicle records last night That is what I am interested in

Yes that's FDRS.

 

[Mach-Lee]

Could have sworn I saw someone post that at HVB 40% SoC if not plugged in the LVB will not be maintained. OP charging seemed to regularly get vehicle below 40% without plugging in for some time.

Sorry for my ‘misinformation’

That happens at 15%, not 40%.

 

[Caliroute1]

Yes that's FDRS.

Well that was a interesting read and a hard pass. I will brick it for sure. Leave it to the experts. Not a guy like me with a short temper

 

[Caliroute1]

I would have eliminated the Ford charger as the problem before I took it to the dealer again. I’m noticing that’s the thing in common in a lot of these threads. Glad I installed a Grizzl-E and keep the mobile charger in the trunk.

kind of had no choice but to go back to the dealership. Lost performance in it. I couldn’t get above 102 today

 

[rsfloodco]

Ok. So. I had a RTE 1. Long story short I got a GT AS a replacement. Worked fine from October to January 4th when it became a brick. The shop had it for three weeks, everything seemed ok. Now I got an alert yesterday about service asap. Of course this happened Saturday afternoon at 4 pm. Well on my app I got power train malfunction/ reduced power AND high voltage battery warning.
Now I have had it back for less than a month and now I have to go back to the shop. Anyone else having a lot of issues? I understand new car and technology but seriously I am getting really upset here. Is there something that I am doing wrong? Car has less than 6800 miles on it and I am getting aggravated with the service department as most of them see, like under trained monkeys. Not the tech the idiots at the counter don’t seem to understand that when it shuts down it’s down. Maybe I am asking for too much

Man, I feel for you because I’m there too! In the shop again. This is the 5th trip for the same suspension default and now a new reverse assistant issue. I’ve started a claim with Ford to return the car. Sucks because I got it (GTPE) in August and I’ve put on less than 3k. I love the car but it can’t stay on the road. Bummed! Oh, and you see that lame Edge in the background. That’s been my loaner for the better part of the last two months.

 

[Caliroute1]

Man, I feel for you because I’m there too! In the shop again. This is the 5th trip for the same suspension default and now a new reverse assistant issue. I’ve started a claim with Ford to return the car. Sucks because I got it (GTPE) in August and I’ve put on less than 3k. I love the car but it can’t stay on the road. Bummed!

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