Level 2 at Home Idea

[DadzBoyz]

Larger breakers don’t make it safer. It just makes you use larger and more expensive wire.

More expensive wire that is more than needed for the power I will draw, less resistance, less heat, lessening, to some degree, the likelihood of an issue.
But I could be wrong.

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[generaltso]

More expensive wire that is more than needed for the power I will draw, less resistance, less heat, lessening, to some degree, the likelihood of an issue.
But I could be wrong.

Check the maximum wire size for whatever EVSE you’re going to use. For example, the ChargePoint Home Flex can’t take wire bigger than 6 gauge.

 

[i8iridium]

Check the maximum wire size for whatever EVSE you’re going to use. For example, the ChargePoint Home Flex can’t take wire bigger than 6 gauge.

I was just going to say that ^^...
Besides, NEC is there for a reason. Engineers a lot smarter than us made up rules to keep us safe. No reason to oversize. I got 6 ga THHN running in conduit on a 60A breaker supplying my chargepoint at 48 amps and I have no reason to be worried about it. The wire doesn't even get warm.

 

[mjs020294]

A well installed 14-50 outlet, with a 50amp breaker and 6/6/6w8g wire, and plug-in EVSE with charge current limited to 32amps will be a fine way to go. If the EVSE fails, you pull out your Mobile charger and use it.....

Totally agree with this approach. One benefit is there are quite a lot of 32AMP chargers in the low $200s.

 

[Hammered]

You can in-fact add a panel that contains contactors to switch a breaker. These are essentially commercial relays for switching motors on and off. The legs can be paralleled, and a cheap 3-way light switch can act as the means for switching the energizing coils. It's a whole hell of a lot cheaper to install a subpanel off the main one and just use 2 breakers though. I use these to construct load shedding systems. 1 4 pole can control 4 120v devices (circuits), or 2 120v + 1 240v, or 2x 240v. For vehicle charging you'd need to parallel 2 legs. I won't design it for you and only an electrician who deals with commercial lighting / motor control would know where to begin. Think of these as little automotive 'relays' but for real voltage.

For context, the MME has 4 contactors in it that basically turn the battery to car interface on and off. It's the HVBJB parts that crap out on the recall.

https://www.amazon.com/5Y6-Normally-Definite-Purpose-Contactor/dp/B07LGF7YV1

 

[Nemy]

Check the maximum wire size for whatever EVSE you’re going to use. For example, the ChargePoint Home Flex can’t take wire bigger than 6 gauge.

Plus if you're DIY, 6 gauge is plenty fun to work with already. Can't imagine 4 gauge. Future proofing is one thing but I think we're a ways out, if ever, from needing anything like 80 amps for L2 overnight charging... By that point, that'd mean the mpge would be the equivalent of an ICE.

 

[devmach-e]

Plus if you're DIY, 6 gauge is plenty fun to work with already. Can't imagine 4 gauge. Future proofing is one thing but I think we're a ways out, if ever, from needing anything like 80 amps for L2 overnight charging... By that point, that'd mean the mpge would be the equivalent of an ICE.

Lightning F-150 supports 80A charging. But yes, for the MME crowd, 48A is more than enough for now.

 

[Nemy]

Lightning F-150 supports 80A charging. But yes, for the MME crowd, 48A is more than enough for now.

Ya but still overkill for overnight daily use.

 

[mjs020294]

Lightning F-150 supports 80A charging. But yes, for the MME crowd, 48A is more than enough for now.

Adding 80AMP plus circuits to the majority of household panels will almost certainly cause problems. When 80AMP or more becomes a standard a lot of folks will need new panels, and posibly new service lines.

There are a lot of benefits to using the slowest charging that suits your needs. Its cheaper, safer and better for your batteries to charge at lower speeds. If you are charging from 15-85% of the battery 20amps will geet done overnight.

The fun begins if you're on a TOU plan with a relatively small window to charge before your morning commute.

 

[PilotMark]

I bought a chargepoint home for fulltime charging and carry the ford charger in the car and as backup if needed at home. Electric company offered a discount and I like the app.
I installed a 14-50r (Hubbell industrial $118 receptacle) so I could use either charger at home.
Use an electrician for the install and ask if they understand the difference between commercial and industrial (constant for hours at rated amps) receptacles.
Then I also setup the ChargePoint home for 32 amps. The difference of 4 or 5 hours to charge while at home is of little value.

enjoy the research and enjoy the Mach e

 

[db4z]

Safest and code complaint option would be to hardwire the EVSE you already bought and just run and extra set of wires and put your 14-50 receptacle on a second breaker if you really want to have a back-up 14-50. Then there is no question about the safety/reliability of the transfer switch and you can put the cost of "good" switch into the extra wiring and breaker.

 

[Jimrpa]

Larger breakers don’t make it safer. It just makes you use larger and more expensive wire.

Everyone knows bigger is always better! I’m pretty sure that’s what the guy in the Ram dualie diesel rolling coal who passed me the other day thought anyway ????

 

[DadzBoyz]

Check the maximum wire size for whatever EVSE you’re going to use. For example, the ChargePoint Home Flex can’t take wire bigger than 6 gauge.

Great advice. Will crack open the manual/installer guide, or whatever docs came with it to check it out!
Thanks!

 

[ponEpwr]

I have a similar issue. I have an Emporia 48A EVSE and wanted a NEMA 14-50 plug as a backup. Since I only have 1 spot for a 220V CB in the service panel, I elected to install a 100A sub-panel in the garage. I have two 150A main panels. This way I’m up to code by each charger having its own dedicated circuit, and I have the backup (or get a welder or lathe if I can convince the wife!). +1 on using some cheap Chinese switch from AZ. This is more expensive, but with almost 50A continuous being pulled from the circuit, you want a quality install.

Similar as well. Main panel is not in the garage so I added a 100amp sub panel in the garage. Hardwired a charge point flex up near the front of the garage on a 60 amp breaker and then added a 14-50 plug about 1 foot off the panel on a 50 amp breaker as a backup. If the charge point fails I can use the Ford mobile charger now. Just pull the car in forwards instead of backing it in.

I've got a woodshop in the garage that was desperately needing more power so win-win all around (now I can buy 220v motors!). I'm sure the next owners will be very happy having 100amps in the garage as well. Bit of future proofing in the instance we have 2 or 3 EVs way down the road.

 

[Maquis]

Similar as well. Main panel is not in the garage so I added a 100amp sub panel in the garage. Hardwired a charge point flex up near the front of the garage on a 60 amp breaker and then added a 14-50 plug about 1 foot off the panel on a 50 amp breaker as a backup. If the charge point fails I can use the Ford mobile charger now. Just pull the car in forwards instead of backing it in.

I've got a woodshop in the garage that was desperately needing more power so win-win all around (now I can buy 220v motors!). I'm sure the next owners will be very happy having 100amps in the garage as well. Bit of future proofing in the instance we have 2 or 3 EVs way down the road.

I have a similar setup. If you want your table saw to really scream, get a 3 phase motor and a VFD! Cut oak like butter.

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