Thevanin

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I had two new bugs pop. I've had my car for about 4 weeks.

1) There's a squeak whenever I take my foot off the accelerator pedal. It seems like it's coming from up inside the dash where the pedal assembly attaches to the vehicle. It doesn't seem to be the the hinge that connects to the pedal. I'll probably give it another week to see if it goes away before calling Ford.

2) This morning my trip computer stopped showing my efficiency. The current trip display would either show "Undefined" or "99.9 mi/kWh". When it showed undefined, trip 1 and trip 2 also showed undefined. When the current trip showed 99.9 trip 1 and trip 2 showed the correct (historical) values.





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Mirak

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Adding the rain sensing wiper bug to the list. Even at the lowest sensitivity, the rain sensing wipers sometimes activate under clear conditions.

The car never activates the wipers when I start from being parked indoors. It has also only activated in error once or twice while driving (again, I’m talking clear conditions - not rain when the auto-activation would be expected).

Where the error almost always occurs is when I turn the car on after being parked outdoors for an hour or so. When I start the car, the front wipers will trigger first, followed by the rear wiper a few seconds later. One sweep only.

if it were dust or pollen or something you would think the same problem would occur while driving, but it generally doesn’t. There doesn’t appear to be any accumulation of dust on my windshield.
 

MJMachForum

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Didn't want to update the main wiki as two of my issues are already confirmed by many. I have the screen whine in the instrument cluster screen and my drivers door has a panel gap issue where a part of the front drivers door rubs on the front fender.

The other two issues I had are with the PDI inspection not updating all the computers in the vehicle before sale and failing activation in ForPass. I am only posting this see if anyone else has issues with the FordPass activation where, in the app, you select activate and I get the error that "Another user is in the activation process causing any new activations to be unavailable right now..." I called Ford and spent an hour troubling shooting before they said to take the car back to the dealer to have them reset the computers. They said that the cars modem was not giving a correct response to the server.

I know the modem is working because my remote profile setup completes without issues. Interestingly, when I enable the app link and open the FordPass app on the Sync screen I get the prompt to activate but selecting activate does nothing. I can kill the app on my phone and re-open on Sync and get the activation prompt but the activate button in the iPhone app still errors out.

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Eraser

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After doing some experimenting I have a hunch on what is happening with the profile settings not saving after powering off the car. I think what is actually happening is the changes are being saved automatically as you make them (as it should). However after powering the car off/on again, the system sometimes loads an old cached profile prior to the last change(s).

You can manually force your profile to be reloaded by switching to another profile, then back to your own. When I did this any of the usual settings that keep being reverted (ambient lighting, audio settings, etc.) all loaded with the correct settings.

If you only use one profile you can quickly create a "Guest" profile by turning on/off the Valet mode at least once. After doing that their will be a guest profile you can toggle between if/when you run into this issue.
 
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dbsb3233

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After doing some experimenting I have a hunch on what is happening with the profile settings not saving after powering off the car. I think what is actually happening is the changes are being saved automatically as you make them (as it should). However after powering the car off/on again, the system sometimes loads an old cached profile prior to the last change(s).

You can manually force your profile to be reloaded by switching to another profile, then back to your own. When I did this any of the usual settings that keep being reverted (ambient lighting, audio settings, etc.) all loaded with the correct settings.

If you only use one profile you can quickly create a "Guest" profile by turning on/off the Valet mode at least once. After doing that their will be a guest account you can toggle between if/when you run into this issue.
A quicker way to force a profile reload is to use the 1-2-3 door buttons. If your profile is linked to door #1, press door code #3, then back to #1. When the door code is linked to a profile, pressing the door code loads the whole driver profile (not just the seat/mirror positions).

Unfortunately just pressing #1 when it's active won't work. To force a reload, you have to switch to 2 or 3 and then back to 1. Most people don't have anything on #3 so you can just save the seat/mirror positions to be the same as so they don't have to actually move.
 

Eraser

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A quicker way to force a profile reload is to use the 1-2-3 door buttons. If your profile is linked to door #1, press door code #3, then back to #1. When the door code is linked to a profile, pressing the door code loads the whole driver profile (not just the seat/mirror positions).

Unfortunately just pressing #1 when it's active won't work. To force a reload, you have to switch to 2 or 3 and then back to 1. Most people don't have anything on #3 so you can just save the seat/mirror positions to be the same as so they don't have to actually move.
Interesting, I wasn't aware of that. I'll give that a try and see if I get the same results.
 

Insider

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Didn't want to update the main wiki as two of my issues are already confirmed by many. I have the screen whine in the instrument cluster screen and my drivers door has a panel gap issue where a part of the front drivers door rubs on the front fender.

The other two issues I had are with the PDI inspection not updating all the computers in the vehicle before sale and failing activation in ForPass. I am only posting this see if anyone else has issues with the FordPass activation where, in the app, you select activate and I get the error that "Another user is in the activation process causing any new activations to be unavailable right now..." I called Ford and spent an hour troubling shooting before they said to take the car back to the dealer to have them reset the computers. They said that the cars modem was not giving a correct response to the server.

I know the modem is working because my remote profile setup completes without issues. Interestingly, when I enable the app link and open the FordPass app on the Sync screen I get the prompt to activate but selecting activate does nothing. I can kill the app on my phone and re-open on Sync and get the activation prompt but the activate button in the iPhone app still errors out.

IMG_5188.PNG
I had exactly the same error message when trying to activate at the dealer. I brought the car home and fiddled with it for a while. Eventually I fully deleted the FordPass App off my iPhone, re-installed it, and re-added the vehicle to the App (using the VIN) while I was sitting in the car and the car was on. It finally worked. If you haven’t already, you might try deleting and reinstalling the phone App.
 

DaveQ

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Problem: Placing groceries in the rear cargo area after opening with foot activation. Once I close the rear gate, the car locks (horn activates). Then I go to the driver door to get in and I cannot open the driver door by pressing the door button. Seems disabled. I then have to take out the fob and press unlock.

Not sure it's a problem or just annoying. I guess the car does is not able to reestablish my approach since I am only going from the rear gate to the driver door. Does anyone else notice this issue?
 

dbsb3233

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Problem: Placing groceries in the rear cargo area after opening with foot activation. Once I close the rear gate, the car locks (horn activates). Then I go to the driver door to get in and I cannot open the driver door by pressing the door button. Seems disabled. I then have to take out the fob and press unlock.

Not sure it's a problem or just annoying. I guess the car does is not able to reestablish my approach since I am only going from the rear gate to the driver door. Does anyone else notice this issue?
Yes. I've had that happen 3-4 times. Works again if you leave proximity and re-enter, but of course we shouldn't have to do that.

Liftgate often doesn't open on the first attempt either, if the car is asleep. It just clicks/whirs (the car waking up sounds). Then once awake, it works.

Lots of "car not awake" quirks.
 

MJMachForum

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I had exactly the same error message when trying to activate at the dealer. I brought the car home and fiddled with it for a while. Eventually I fully deleted the FordPass App off my iPhone, re-installed it, and re-added the vehicle to the App (using the VIN) while I was sitting in the car and the car was on. It finally worked. If you haven’t already, you might try deleting and reinstalling the phone App.
Thanks. Tried that several times. This is what the sales guy and the Ford support number people had me do. A few hours later and still no go. I even tried resetting my phone to factory and trying a different device. I also tried updating the cars modules and resetting their configurations. It's defiantly something strange. I did notice that when updating the modules and resetting them that the configurations would take awhile to stick. For example, when resetting the APIM modules the dash chime would sound like the one in my Flex. I don't know exactly when it corrected itself but it took a few hours before the dash chime returned to "Mach E" normal. There are some bugs to work out for sure.
 

Mirak

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My current bug list (Updated: April 15, 2021)
  • OPEN Driver’s Instrument Screen emits a buzzing noise. This buzzing noise changes somewhat when you toggle the screen brightness up and down (using the physical buttons near driver’s left knee). You can mask the sound with other ambient noise when the car is driving, but when the car isn’t moving the buzz is audible. It is annoying. Many other owners have reported this issue. Can I live with it? Sure. But the screen shouldn’t buzz like that in such a premium vehicle. The main touchscreen doesn’t buzz at all. I’ve had this issue since I bought the car. I took it to the dealership to document and they are supposedly inquiring with Ford but I have received no update. Issue has been confirmed by MANY owners in this thread (includes videos): https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/high-pitched-electrical-whine.3225/
  • CLOSED Car alarm goes off. I haven’t experienced this issue in several weeks so I’m closing.
  • OPEN “Alarm Motion Sensor: Off” setting refuses to stick. In Settings > Vehicle > Alarm System, you can toggle the interior motion sensors on/off. I want this setting OFF because sometimes my kids get in the car before me, or stay in the car when I’m at a charger, and they set off the alarm. But no matter how many times I toggle this to Off, the setting refuses to stick. Every time I restart the car, it is toggled back to On. Incredibly frustrating. I have already created a Profile to retain my settings, but this setting just refuses to stick. I’ve had this issue since I bought the car. This has been confirmed by many people.
  • CLOSED Trip computer mi/kWh sometimes refuses to reset. I sometimes have to switch screens, or restart the car, or press the reset button repeatedly to get it to reset. Interestingly, pressing Reset does correctly reset all other data on the trip computer – just not mi/kWh. Update: this issue seems to have improved so I’m closing.
  • CLOSED Headlamps switched from Auto to On. The car switched my headlamps from Auto to On. This has only happened one time on 3/29/21, so I’m closing.
  • CLOSED Car ignored Max Charge in Charging Schedule. I have a charging schedule set with a mx charge of 90%. On 3/29/21, the car ignored the max charge setting and recharged all the way back to 100%. This has only happened one time so I’m closing.
  • OPEN Public charging is horribly unreliable. I was almost stranded in Kansas City while trying to get home to Wichita because two different ChargePoint 50kW public chargers failed to initiate charges. I called the folks at ChargePoint and they were unable to help. I have since discovered through PlugShare.com that another Mustang Mach E likewise couldn’t charge at one of those chargers, but they work for other cars. It appears that the Mustang Mach E has a compatibility problem with ChargePoint 50kW chargers. When I deviated to a longer route to go past a ChargePoint 125kW charger, that one thankfully worked fine. Overall this was a horribly stressful experience that added nearly TWO HOURS to my trip. WITH MY SON. When I called Ford to help me yesterday, Ford was CLOSED (Sunday afternoon). It is very distressing to me that Ford doesn't have 24/7support for charging issues. By the way, my car alarm went off during one of these sessions because my son was in the car while I was outside. See the issue above. This car is a dream to drive, PROVIDED I’m within range of my garage charging. Going out on road trips causes MASSIVE ANXIETY because I never know if the public charger I’m depending on will work!!! It’s so bad that I’m not going to road trip anymore with my family in this car because it is just too unreliable!
  • OPEN Plug & Charge does not work. P&C is supposed to allow me to just plug into an Electrify America station and the charge will automatically start. It doesn’t work, period. I have confirmed that I have properly set up Ford Connected Services, I have a payment method added to my Ford.com wallet, and P&C is enabled in my FordPass app, but P&C refuses to work. I have tested this at multiple EA stations. When I plug in, the EA charger screen says (over the course of about a minute): “Connecting to vehicle,” then “Payment authorized,” then “Initiating charging,” then “Charging start error.” It flat out does not work. Others have confirmed. https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/avoid-plug-and-charge-for-now.4346/
  • OPEN FordPass is a sloppy mess when it comes to charging. When P&C fails to work (see above), I can still use the FordPass app to initiate a charge, but it isn’t pretty. You have to first select a particular plug at a particular charger at a particular station to initiate before plugging in, but FordPass does not properly label the plugs! For example, if there is a charger #100169-02 with two plugs labeled Plug 1 and Plug 2 on the charger (as is usually the case for EA), the FP app just lists two entries for 100169-02 but doesn’t say which one is for which plug. Also, the FP app lists all EA chargers as 150kw even if it is a 350kw charger. This again causes confusion because most EA stations have both 350kw and 150kw chargers. Further, once you get the charge initiated, the FP app does not provide you with any charging status! Using the EA app, you can monitor your charging in real time while you take a walk, get a bite to eat, etc. But you can only utilize Ford’s 500kWh of “free” charging by using the FP app. Details here: https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/avoid-plug-and-charge-for-now.4346/post-154227
  • OPEN FordPass is a sloppy mess, period. There are really too many bugs to list with the FP app. One example is that the red unread messages alert refuses to go away even after messages have been read. The app takes forever to refresh current vehicle location and charge status, sometimes hours behind. The app doesn’t show current charging status. All these bugs and more are detailed in many threads here: https://www.macheforum.com/site/for...-software-firmware-driving-aids-bluetooth.11/
  • CLOSED No Over the Air update. Finally received the first OTA update. Not sure what, if anything, it fixed. Ford has refused to provide any release notes as to what bugs the OTA update was supposed to fix. Closing.
  • OPEN Driver’s Instrument Screen Navigating to Nowhere. On 4/14/21, when I started my car, the Driver’s Instrument Screen had changed to indicate that I was navigating to a destination 7mi away. (When you navigate somewhere, information displayed on the left side of the DIS changes. Instead of just estimated range and state of charge, you now see estimated range, a number of miles to a checkered flag, and state of charge). The problem is, I wasn’t navigating anywhere, and I confirmed this in the nav section of the infotainment screen. I was able to clear the bug on the DIS by starting and then cancelling a nav session. Others have confirmed this error. https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...’t-deserve-their-own-thread.5419/#post-154437
  • OPEN Passenger doors won’t unlock on approach. When car is locked and I approach, the car recognizes my fob or phone because the lights come on, but I can’t unlock the car by pushing the door buttons for the front or rear passenger doors. I have to first either open a driver’s side door, or use the fob to manually unlock. This is not a setting issue. It used to work but appears to have stopped working when the dealer reprogrammed my BCM. This is quite annoying because when car is parked in my garage I want to first open the passenger door to deposit my work items. Many people are experiencing similar problems here: https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/cant-open-drivers-door-first.4266/post-144571
  • OPEN Rain Sensing Wipers too sensitive. Even at the lowest sensitivity, the rain sensing wipers sometimes activate under clear conditions. The car never activates the wipers when I start from being parked indoors. It has also only activated in error a few times while driving (again, I’m talking clear conditions - not rain when the auto-activation would be expected). Where the error almost always occurs is when I turn the car on after being parked outdoors for an hour or so. When I start the car, the front wipers will trigger, and then the rear wiper will trigger when I place in reverse. One sweep only. If it were dust or pollen or something you would think the same problem would occur while driving, but it generally doesn’t. There doesn’t appear to be any dust on windshield.
 

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