Mach E left us stranded

[Mach-Lee]

Don't know exactly what it was when I parked it, but it was 80% when I returned (and it had charged to 90% overnight before leaving for the airport - 24 miles away, so I'd say it was 80-81% when I parked it)

Thanks, if was parked unplugged at the airport at 80% and the 12V battery was new it should't have gone dead being parked for a week. Likely software glitch, hopefully you can somehow get some updates done so that doesn't happen again.

Is there any reason we couldn’t just install a cable like this directly to the battery, and perhaps route it to somewhere externally where it could be accessed if need be (behind front bumper, etc)? I haven’t had anything apart, so no idea how tight everything is in there. But this would sure make access a whole lot easier, and prevent the need to cut holes in panels or have to open the frunk to get going again. In the event the 12v is dead, I’m wondering if we couldn’t just connect that to one of the recommended jump start units (via a DIY adapter cable made from the CTEK extension cable)?

No, because a battery charger cable is too small and doesn't support enough amps to jump start a dead battery. You will not be able to charge the battery from dead because the inrush of the car trying to wake up is greater than what the battery charger can provide. Others have added the cable for battery maintenance, but it won't help once the battery has gone dead.

You have to use the front bumper leads to open the frunk if the 12V goes dead. End of story.

Sponsored

 

[bdeweese]

Well dang … figured if it was that easy someone would already have done it. Thx for explaining!

 

[MME Farmer]

I think you're referring to this TSB 25-2058: 2021-2023 Mach-E 12V Battery Drain - Software Update | MachEforum - Ford Mustang Mach-E News, Owners, Discussions, Community and unfortunately, my car's already outside warranty at 62k. Which is even more infurating - because they know it's a problem but won't fix it.

As for the clips, haven't been able to find them on Amazon, but these are what you need Replacement clips for frunk panels- Source? | MachEforum - Ford Mustang Mach-E News, Owners, Discussions, Community

That is the correct p/n for the clips cost me $2.97 each

 

[david_quick]

I think you're referring to this TSB 25-2058: 2021-2023 Mach-E 12V Battery Drain - Software Update | MachEforum - Ford Mustang Mach-E News, Owners, Discussions, Community and unfortunately, my car's already outside warranty at 62k. Which is even more infurating - because they know it's a problem but won't fix it.

As for the clips, haven't been able to find them on Amazon, but these are what you need Replacement clips for frunk panels- Source? | MachEforum - Ford Mustang Mach-E News, Owners, Discussions, Community

Won’t fixit? Or you don’t want to pay them to fix it?

 

[A-A-Ron]

Won’t fixit? Or you don’t want to pay them to fix it?

It's a known defect with a CSP in place to fix it, but only for vehicles under warranty - I'm sure a dealership would be plenty happy for me to pay them to fix it

 

[67 Stang Convertible]

Came back from a week long trip very late Saturday night. Made it to the airport offsite parking lot, and the car was sluggish to wake up (not uncommon after 7+ days). The back door didn’t want to open and I knew we were in for it when the rear hatch popped open but didn’t raise up and there were no interior lights.

Tried starting the car and knew immediately - the 12v battery was dead - lights randomly came on and off, the center console went to the “powered off to save battery”, Stop Safely Now and a slew of door, camera, brake and other errors on the IPC.

We’d been up for 20 hours at that point, it was 1am, my daughter got stuck on the flight and was puking every few minutes, the weather was colder than forecast so I’m outside in the 40s in shorts - just not a great time for this.

The parking lot had a jump cart but the operator was off getting gas so I pulled the frunk panels while I waited for him to come back. Hooked it up and started the car (save a stop safely error and red ! turtle - the car was running but maybe a bit sluggish). Made it home at nearly 2am. Put the windows down so I could get back in and plugged in and everything went back to normal the next morning.

The battery was only 3 months old and tested fine. I put it on a charger for half a day and reset the BMS in case it was set improperly when the battery was replaced but I suspect some module hung up and didn’t go to sleep, drawing a small but constant load. (No, I don’t have any after market accessories plugged in to drain power).

No idea if that happens often - I drive it often and long and charge every night typically so a small drain wouldn’t normally drain it this low.

Still, not a great experience and we likely won’t bring the Mach E to the airport for long trips again because I’m not sure I can trust it when I need it most. Can’t even imagine what this would be like for an average consumer that isn’t familiar with the 12v issues, how they manifest, how to get to the battery and jump it.

Now to go find some new frunk panel clips because I’m down 4

The crazy-ass thing Ford has had 5 years now to cut a simple access panel into the plastic as the 12V has been a problem since 2021. I can't imagine it cost that much to program a robot to cut a door into a piece of plastic..........

 

[bdeweese]

The crazy-ass thing Ford has had 5 years now to cut a simple access panel into the plastic as the 12V has been a problem since 2021. I can't imagine it cost that much to program a robot to cut a door into a piece of plastic..........

What seems even crazier - and I do understand it’s complicated - is that in most cases we have the huge HVB sitting there with all of that juice - but no way for it to provide enough power to a lowly 12v battery to open the door and get the car moving again - even if only temporarily.

But yea - making an access panel would seem like the least they could do!!

 

[GreaseMonkey]

The crazy-ass thing Ford has had 5 years now to cut a simple access panel into the plastic as the 12V has been a problem since 2021. I can't imagine it cost that much to program a robot to cut a door into a piece of plastic..........

Come on now. How else would we customize our cars and make them truly our own? Some of us take pride in hacking plastic pieces, deburring edges, and looking for caps to install. It’s what makes this a fun science experiment. Pls don’t have them end the fun for us!!

Note: They will need to change a mold. It’s not a big deal.

 

[HuntingPudel]

Could buy a spare panel, can’t find the part number currently but I believe it was under $200.

It was just over $100 when I got the spare that I bought for my 2021 (and never used until I traded it in on my 2024). I bought it with part of the FordPass points I got for buying my 2021. I am sure you can buy it for less than the full retail price my local dealer charged for mine. ??

 

[HuntingPudel]

Perfect timing. My next question was going to be is it even necessary on a new 24? But I see you’re doing it on your ‘24 as well. Guess better safe than sorry!

I moved my jump point and wiring from my 2021 to my 2024. It just makes it more convenient to do FDRS updates. ?‍?

 

[HuntingPudel]

Had another thought. I have an ‘03 Mercedes SL500. Has 2 batteries - 1 in engine bay for starter only, and an AGM battery in the trunk that runs all accessories, etc. If it sits idle for too long the battery can get low, so I often keep a CTEK smart charger on it.

To keep things simple, I picked up the charger and one of their extension cables. The charger also comes with a short cable with lugs that can be installed directly to the battery cables/terminals. The other end is a weather proof “plug” that can be plugged into the charger or extension cable, etc.

Is there any reason we couldn’t just install a cable like this directly to the battery, and perhaps route it to somewhere externally where it could be accessed if need be (behind front bumper, etc)? I haven’t had anything apart, so no idea how tight everything is in there. But this would sure make access a whole lot easier, and prevent the need to cut holes in panels or have to open the frunk to get going again. In the event the 12v is dead, I’m wondering if we couldn’t just connect that to one of the recommended jump start units (via a DIY adapter cable made from the CTEK extension cable)?

Note: The cable connecting to the battery is available in either 6mm, 8mm or 10mm eyelets.

@markboris installed a similar cable in the charge port of his car for his Battery Tender. ??

 

[A-A-Ron]

I moved my jump point and wiring from my 2021 to my 2024. It just makes it more convenient to do FDRS updates. ?‍?

I thought you couldn't learn new tricks

 

[bdeweese]

@markboris installed a similar cable in the charge port of his car for his Battery Tender. ??

Yea - sounds like it’s a good strategy for maintenance charging the 12v - but not for a quick jump start - which was my hope!

 

[HuntingPudel]

I thought you couldn't learn new tricks

LOL modding cars isn’t a new trick for this old dog. I swapped the engine on the first new car I ever bought while the ink was still wet on the purchase contract. ??

 

[HuntingPudel]

Yea - sounds like it’s a good strategy for maintenance charging the 12v - but not for a quick jump start - which was my hope!

Yes. The wire gauge and connectors on those are not suitable for the amperage draw a jump start would put on them. I melted a 10 gauge QD just doing FDRS updates on my 2021. I’m using a forklift charging quick disconnect now with 8AWG wiring because my 2024 seems to draw more amperage than my 2021 did and the 2021 was the one that melted the older QD. ?‍?

Sponsored