Mach E left us stranded

[RickMachE]

Have you honestly never had a car battery die before?

Without warning, at 3 years or less, and prevent entry to the vehicle? No, I haven't.

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[AhardFSU]

This looks like an OTA update. I don't think updates via FDRS show in FordPass. You might be the first car I've seen get ECG-24.2.5.7.1. Are you in the EAP?

I've seen Lightnings get ECG-24.2.5.7 last month to update the GWM.

Yes I’m in EAP.

 

[rreddy3]

Anyone have an idea as to how Ford Lease might view this mod (assuming done neatly) upon vehicle turn in? I have 3 yrs to go on my ‘24. Would like to create easy access to the terminals - now, while I don’t heed it. However, don’t want to get dinged a bunch of $$$ for cutting holes in that panel. Thoughts?

My thought is this could fly under the radar of a turn in inspection. Particularly if the caps were left unpainted, and if the middle cap were omitted entirely. That one is for access to the low voltage disconnect for the HVB system (my shorthand description, no doubt others have a more precise definition). That one is not necessary for jumping/charging the baby 12v battery.

This is also not a material modification affecting the usability/salability of the vehicle. If you were to install lowering and raising springs and didn't remove them, that might create some heartburn at the turn in inspection. But I don't think this would be a significant issue, even if the hood were popped open.

And, for what it's worth, on Village (as in Dearborn) Ford's online parts website, the panel in question is called the
Fender Ledge Cover - Ford (LJ8Z-5802038-C)
and it costs, at this time, $137.18.

So, you could just figure on a fairly minor cost to buy one and replace the one with the holes in it when your lease is up if you prefer to turn the car in without the LVB jump point access enhancements.

 

[Sikkun]

Without warning, at 3 years or less, and prevent entry to the vehicle? No, I haven't.

That implies you still haven’t had that happen to you either

 

[RickMachE]

That implies you still haven’t had that happen to you either

Correct. But do I trust it? No.

Do I trust my HVBJB won't fail again? No.

 

[bdeweese]

They won’t be able to see it. If you follow these instructions, it’ll be almost invisible.

https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...nect-relay-for-safety.4107/page-7#post-309362

Thanks! Super helpful. That install looks great!

 

[GreaseMonkey]

Thanks! Super helpful. That install looks great!

Yes. I’m speaking from personal experience having done it on my 2022. It looked exactly the same as the pics in the link I provided (these pics are not of my vehicle, rather of another member’s). I’m about to do it again on my 2024. The only other advice is to buy a deburring tool to clean out the edges and to use the template that @Texas-E graciously provided:

https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...ccess-battery-access.10976/page-3#post-290201

 

[grein002]

My thought is this could fly under the radar of a turn in inspection. Particularly if the caps were left unpainted, and if the middle cap were omitted entirely. That one is for access to the low voltage disconnect for the HVB system (my shorthand description, no doubt others have a more precise definition). That one is not necessary for jumping/charging the baby 12v battery.

This is also not a material modification affecting the usability/salability of the vehicle. If you were to install lowering and raising springs and didn't remove them, that might create some heartburn at the turn in inspection. But I don't think this would be a significant issue, even if the hood were popped open.

And, for what it's worth, on Village (as in Dearborn) Ford's online parts website, the panel in question is called the
Fender Ledge Cover - Ford (LJ8Z-5802038-C)
and it costs, at this time, $137.18.

So, you could just figure on a fairly minor cost to buy one and replace the one with the holes in it when your lease is up if you prefer to turn the car in without the LVB jump point access enhancements.

And probably sell your drilled one to someone else who doesn't want to drill theirs...

 

[rreddy3]

Thanks! Super helpful. That install looks great!

That’s the unpainted option omitting the low voltage HVN disconnect.

 

[bdeweese]

Yes. I’m speaking from personal experience having done it on my 2022. It looked exactly the same as the pics in the link I provided (these pics are not of my vehicle, rather of another member’s). I’m about to do it again on my 2024. The only other advice is to buy a deburring tool to clean out the edges and to use the template that someone graciously provided (I’ll try to find it for you).

Perfect timing. My next question was going to be is it even necessary on a new 24? But I see you’re doing it on your ‘24 as well. Guess better safe than sorry!

 

[GreaseMonkey]

Perfect timing. My next question was going to be is it even necessary on a new 24? But I see you’re doing it on your ‘24 as well. Guess better safe than sorry!

Yup. I’d do it preemptively. I bought the caps before buying the new car ?.

 

[A-A-Ron]

@A-A-Ron what was the SOC % on the vehicle when you parked it vs once you jumped it?

Did you park it with the HV battery especially low? Or was it charging while you parked? Or neither?

Don't know exactly what it was when I parked it, but it was 80% when I returned (and it had charged to 90% overnight before leaving for the airport - 24 miles away, so I'd say it was 80-81% when I parked it)

 

[bdeweese]

Had another thought. I have an ‘03 Mercedes SL500. Has 2 batteries - 1 in engine bay for starter only, and an AGM battery in the trunk that runs all accessories, etc. If it sits idle for too long the battery can get low, so I often keep a CTEK smart charger on it.

To keep things simple, I picked up the charger and one of their extension cables. The charger also comes with a short cable with lugs that can be installed directly to the battery cables/terminals. The other end is a weather proof “plug” that can be plugged into the charger or extension cable, etc.

Is there any reason we couldn’t just install a cable like this directly to the battery, and perhaps route it to somewhere externally where it could be accessed if need be (behind front bumper, etc)? I haven’t had anything apart, so no idea how tight everything is in there. But this would sure make access a whole lot easier, and prevent the need to cut holes in panels or have to open the frunk to get going again. In the event the 12v is dead, I’m wondering if we couldn’t just connect that to one of the recommended jump start units (via a DIY adapter cable made from the CTEK extension cable)?

Note: The cable connecting to the battery is available in either 6mm, 8mm or 10mm eyelets.

 

[sparkout]

Which reminds me that I need to drill 12v access holes on my new Mach-E, because everyone is susceptible to what @A-A-Ron had to deal with. I regret not removing the panel from my old Mach-E when I traded it in.

Why do you feel that way?

 

[GreaseMonkey]

Why do you feel that way?

Because it doesn’t take much to kill a 12v and removing panels is a pain. I think everyone should be prepared to jump a battery if needed. Especially a 2021!!

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