My ChargePoint Home Flex Installed

[connoisseurr]

I’ll treat this thread like I would to show off a PC build… very satisfied how the cabling and install turned out. We’re undergoing a remodel on the ground floor of a townhouse so the entire ceiling is down. Took advantage of that to run a 70A circuit from the garage to the main breaker panel - was about 70 feet including verticals.

ChargePoint’s installation and setup instructions are effortless.

 

[PCJohnD]

Me too . . . now, about my MachE . . .

 

[generaltso]

What gauge wire did you go with? Did you have to step it down to fit in the ChargePoint?

 

[connoisseurr]

What gauge wire did you go with? Did you have to step it down to fit in the ChargePoint?

From panel to junction box is a 1" liquidtight flexible non-metallic conduit, then stepped down to 3/4" PVC from junction box to charger. The charger has a 3/4" knockout on it for power input.

Wiring in the conduit is Southwire simpull (purchased by the foot). I opted for:

• 6 AWG Black
• 6 AWG Red
• 6 AWG White
• 8 AWG Green

The Home Flex charger needs two hots and a ground/neutral. I opted to use the white neutral for ground, as they're terminated to the same bus bar in the panel. Could have green as well.

 

[generaltso]

Looks great. I know the ChargePoint can’t pull that much, but is 6 gauge enough for a 70A circuit?

 

[GrumblesTheDog]

Super clean install! Very nice.

 

[Cptmorgemaker]

Thhn at 90c insulation is good for 75A. Just depends what insulation type wire you got and it is a dry location. No disconnect by the charger or is the disconnect close? It wont pull more then 50A

 

[connoisseurr]

Looks great. I know the ChargePoint can’t pull that much, but is 6 gauge enough for a 70A circuit?

Thhn at 90c insulation is good for 75A. Just depends what insulation type wire you got and it is a dry location. No disconnect by the charger or is the disconnect close? It wont pull more then 50A

This is stranded 6 AWG. No problem pulling the current needed. The Home Flex won't ever pull over 50A.

Our local building and electrical code doesn't require a disconnect at the charger, unless the charger is rated for 60A+.

Specs of Southwire Simpull THHN/THHN2.

 

[DevSecOps]

@connoisseurr I have the exact same charger. Setup your charging schedule in the chargepoint app and not in the car. If you do it in the car the charger gets all wonky and doesn't want to work. So set the car to always charge from home.

Unfortunately, this means you'll get a stupid, nonsensical message from Ford every day about not being able to start the charge at your charge time, when the charge time isn't even close to the actual time, but that's just how it works.

 

[connoisseurr]

@connoisseurr I have the exact same charger. Setup your charging schedule in the chargepoint app and not in the car. If you do it in the car the charger gets all wonky and doesn't want to work. So set the car to always charge from home.

Unfortunately, this means you'll get a stupid, nonsensical message from Ford every day about not being able to start the charge at your charge time, when the charge time isn't even close to the actual time, but that's just how it works.

Thanks for these notes. I'll prepare myself for the annoyance of unnecessary notifications

This may be a temporary charger until we determine what EV is next purchased. If we end up getting a Lightning over a Rivian, I'll switch to a Ford Charger.

 

[DevSecOps]

Thanks for these notes. I'll prepare myself for the annoyance of unnecessary notifications

This may be a temporary charger until we determine what EV is next purchased. If we end up getting a Lightning over a Rivian, I'll switch to a Ford Charger.

I had this charger from my previous EV and I kept it instead of going with the Ford. I just didn't see the need to get the Ford charger. Maybe if I did the notifications would be gone ?‍

The one thing I like about Chargepoint is that, that's all they do... chargers. So I figure it would be best to leave that to them. I also like that I can pull in my charging data to Home Assistant. I have my car added in HA as well, but I don't think there's support for the Ford charging.

 

[phidauex]

Looks good, nice and clean! I do like hardwired installs, I think they make more sense for a long-term installation. In my case I hardwired my charger, but also installed a 2nd circuit with a NEMA 14-50R so I have a backup (or in the future, can charge two EVs).

For everyone wondering on the ampacity, yes, #6 is OK for a 70A breaker and a 50A continuous load (it works whether you rate the wire at 75C or 90C, and in both cases assume the terminals are only 75C).

My only suggestion would be that it would have been better to connect the green wire instead of the white wire since that terminal is for an equipment grounding conductor, not a neutral. You don't actually need the white wire at all (though it isn't hurting anything by being there).

In this case it is somewhat academic because as you say they go to the same place, but it is technically incorrect and could be caught by a future inspector. It probably wouldn't have any kind of actual practical impact unless you got a whole-house GFP in the future.

 

[Cptmorgemaker]

Was JW about the disconnect I don't like mine is feed from my shed so it's a distance and if it's locked so I put a disconnect to be safe. Don't look at the mess behind the charger wire got to fix the wall from previous attachments. But great chargers and saved a bunch doing it yourself. Cheers!

 

[Benny’66]

From panel to junction box is a 1" liquidtight flexible non-metallic conduit, then stepped down to 3/4" PVC from junction box to charger. The charger has a 3/4" knockout on it for power input.

Wiring in the conduit is Southwire simpull (purchased by the foot). I opted for:

• 6 AWG Black
• 6 AWG Red
• 6 AWG White
• 8 AWG Green

The Home Flex charger needs two hots and a ground/neutral. I opted to use the white neutral for ground, as they're terminated to the same bus bar in the panel. Could have green as well.

Just a suggestion, I would terminate the green on the line side to be consistent with the load side color coding. Then I would pull the white completely out of the circuit conduit as it’s unnecessary for the Home Flex. Not a good practice to leave an orphaned wire in a high amp box. Sometimes it’s necessary with Romex to wire nut and tape off an unused wire, but not if using individual THHN in conduit.

 

[MONDO]

Looks great. I know the ChargePoint can’t pull that much, but is 6 gauge enough for a 70A circuit?

@connoisseurr this is going to get some critique.

Should have used #4 THHN if using a 70A breaker. #6 THHN is sized for 60A. Need to use the 75C column(see NFPA 70 110.14(C)(1)(a)) of NFPA 70 Table 310.15 (B)(16), assuming this run is directly from panel to charger (it should be as nothing else is permitted to be on an EV circuit). Not sure why pull the extra wire. I would terminate the green (ground) wire, not the white. If you want to land the white, it should be marked with green tape. The Chargepoint requires 2 hot (black & red) + 1 ground. If your panel has both ground and white on the same bar, I hope your panel is wired up correctly. This is only permitted if the neutral and ground are bonded IN the panel.

Did a nice job training the Flex. I would have used EMT straight down from the ceiling, then flex right into the bottom of the charger box. Could have used 3/4” conduit the whole way but its OK to up a trade size.

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