Steeda Mach-E Adjustable Rear Sway Bar

[mkhuffman]

Hey @mkhuffman, yah I've been in that thread a lot. I also read all of @markboris' excellent step by step on swapping out the bar which is why I'd love to see a video accompaniment.

They've been paving all the roads around my work and play area, so Premium bounce has been less of an issue for me. Even so I like the idea of making a good car better. I'm not much of a mechanic but I still find all of this stuff fascinating.

I received my Steeda sway bar yesterday, and I think I am going to install it myself. I don't have a good way to lift the rear of the car, so I will have to get a lift and a couple jack stands first. I have jack stands, but I want two more for redundancy. I hate, HATE, getting under cars. It is like a paranoia of small spaces. I am paranoid the car will fall.

Anyway, I don't usually do videos but maybe I can take a few short ones of key steps. It will be a week or two before I can get to it though. I am still waiting for the lube Mark recommended to arrive, and that should arrive next week.

Sponsored

 

[markboris]

Great write up.

Curious your thoughts on the setting for a premium ext battery. I ordered and really want this to reduce the bounciness of the car. Much cheaper option than coilovers.

Thanks for any feedback.

Hey Ken, I have read a few members here have purchased the Steeda rear sway bar to reduce the bounce of the car because after a member installed one recently he noticed less bounce. This was NOT my finding but then I have a GTPE and it has less bounce than the other trims because of the MagneRide shocks. It might very well reduce some of the bounce on the other trims but I wouldn't know. I never did put one on my premium.

As far as the setting, if you are keeping the OEM tires, I would set it at either the number one or two position (minimum or medium setting) but most likely number one. Even at the number one, minimum setting, the Steeda bar will be stiffer than the OEM bar and will reduce understeer. The problem is the rear tires are skinny and don't have a lot of grip so the stiffer you set that bar, the faster the rear end is going to kick out with OEM tires. Those of us on the forum who have replaced the tires with much wider, stickier performance ones have set the bar set to the medium or maximum setting. I have 315/35/20 Michelin Pilot Sport 4 tires on the rear and run the maximum setting on the Steeda bar.

Do you mind sharing how much this cost?

I believe it was around $850 for all four GT springs and shocks. I listed the part numbers several times in different threads. I did this only because I wanted my Premium to be a bit lower (.5") and a little firmer suspension for better handling. I got what I wanted and at the time had thought it greatly reduced the bounce as I did have much less bounce over uneven road surfaces. However, in my area I do not have cement highways with expansion joints and when I finally was able to drive on a road like this when I was going to Arizona to deliver my car to the friend that bought it, my Premium definitely had a harmonic bounce that was annoying. It was probably less than it was before with the stock suspension but I wouldn't know.

Agreed. @markboris you didn't happen to shoot a video as well?

I did not make a video of the Steeda rear sway bar install. I never or rarely ever make videos. I actually rarely take photos. I usually forget about doing it.

I received my Steeda sway bar yesterday, and I think I am going to install it myself. I don't have a good way to lift the rear of the car, so I will have to get a lift and a couple jack stands first. I have jack stands, but I want two more for redundancy. I hate, HATE, getting under cars. It is like a paranoia of small spaces. I am paranoid the car will fall.

Anyway, I don't usually do videos but maybe I can take a few short ones of key steps. It will be a week or two before I can get to it though. I am still waiting for the lube Mark recommended to arrive, and that should arrive next week.

Hey Mike, I wished I lived a bit closer as I would have no problem helping you install that sway bar. I have enjoyed helping other members with their cars when it has come to mechanical or electrical mods (when I have had the time). I would pull off both rear wheels as it will give you more light, more openness while you are under the car and help a bit in replacing the old bar.

 

[Scooby24]

I received my Steeda sway bar yesterday, and I think I am going to install it myself. I don't have a good way to lift the rear of the car, so I will have to get a lift and a couple jack stands first. I have jack stands, but I want two more for redundancy. I hate, HATE, getting under cars. It is like a paranoia of small spaces. I am paranoid the car will fall.

Anyway, I don't usually do videos but maybe I can take a few short ones of key steps. It will be a week or two before I can get to it though. I am still waiting for the lube Mark recommended to arrive, and that should arrive next week.

For sway bars the easiest IMO is to get the rear up on ramps. You need both sides level so the bar doesn't have tension on it and it's just easier overall to avoid having to jack up the car at all.

This is how I've done it on my vehicles in the past at least. I've got bushing grease coming so I'm planning on dropping mine just to grease it up as it's definitely squeaking.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[markboris]

For sway bars the easiest IMO is to get the rear up on ramps. You need both sides level so the bar doesn't have tension on it and it's just easier overall to avoid having to jack up the car at all.

This is how I've done it on my vehicles in the past at least. I've got bushing grease coming so I'm planning on dropping mine just to grease it up as it's definitely squeaking.

Just my 2 cents.

While I agree this is the best way to replace a sway bar, the thing is you have to remove at least the right rear tire in order to remove the OEM bar so cannot really put it up on ramps.

 

[Scooby24]

While I agree this is the best way to replace a sway bar, the thing is you have to remove at least the right rear tire in order to remove the OEM bar so cannot really put it up on ramps.

Bummer, thanks for the heads up.

 

[mkhuffman]

Hey Mike, I wished I lived a bit closer as I would have no problem helping you install that sway bar. I have enjoyed helping other members with their cars when it has come to mechanical or electrical mods (when I have had the time). I would pull off both rear wheels as it will give you more light, more openness while you are under the car and help a bit in replacing the old bar.

Thanks Mark. I wish I lived closer also - it would be great to meet you.

I have done some major maintenance on my cars in the past, so I think I can do it. I am just worried about raising the car. I wish I had your set up!

 

[Schmetsky]

Hey Ken, I have read a few members here have purchased the Steeda rear sway bar to reduce the bounce of the car because after a member installed one recently he noticed less bounce. This was NOT my finding but then I have a GTPE and it has less bounce than the other trims because of the Magnaride shocks. It might very well reduce some of the bounce on the other trims but I wouldn't know. I never did put one on my premium.

As far as the setting, if you are keeping the OEM tires, I would set it at either the number one or two position (minimum or medium setting) but most likely number one. Even at the number one, minimum setting, the Steeda bar will be stiffer than the OEM bar and will reduce understeer. The problem is the rear tires are skinny and don't have a lot of grip so the stiffer you set that bar, the faster the rear end is going to kick out with OEM tires. Those of us on the forum who have replaced the tires with much wider, stickier performance ones have set the bar set to the medium or maximum setting. I have 315/35/20 Michelin Pilot Sport 4 tires on the rear and run the maximum setting on the Steeda bar.


I believe it was around $850 for all four GT springs and shocks. I listed the part numbers several times in different threads. I did this only because I wanted my Premium to be a bit lower (.5") and a little firmer suspension for better handling. I got what I wanted and at the time had thought it greatly reduced the bounce as I did have much less bounce over uneven road surfaces. However, in my area I do not have cement highways with expansion joints and when I finally was able to drive on a road like this when I was going to Arizona to deliver my car to the friend that bought it, my Premium definitely had a harmonic bounce that was annoying. It was probably less than it was before with the stock suspension but I wouldn't know.


I did not make a video of the Steeda rear sway bar install. I never or rarely ever make videos. I actually rarely take photos. I usually forget about doing it.


Hey Mike, I wished I lived a bit closer as I would have no problem helping you install that sway bar. I have enjoyed helping other members with their cars when it has come to mechanical or electrical mods (when I have had the time). I would pull off both rear wheels as it will give you more light, more openness while you are under the car and help a bit in replacing the old bar.

@markboris, I am pretty sure I have asked this before, but never got an answer I understood.

Since Magna Ride started life as a modification, if you wanted to spend the $$$ could it be added to a Sel standard battery MME? Also do you think that the smaller lighter battery pack might have less bounce than the GTPE?

Thanks for all your postings.

 

[HuntingPudel]

@markboris, I am pretty sure I have asked this before, but never got an answer I understood.

Since Magna Ride started life as a modification, if you wanted to spend the $$$ could it be added to a Sel standard battery MME? Also do you think that the smaller lighter battery pack might have less bounce than the GTPE?

Thanks for all your postings.

Magneride involves a LOT of component parts, including (but not limited to) sensors, electronic control units, wiring harnesses, and the dampers. You *could* spend the money to have it all put into a car that is not a GT-PE, but it'd be prohibitively expensive.

In answer to less bounce due to a lighter battery pack, since it has less mass, it will be easier to control. Based on that logic, the lighter battery pack should have less bounce, all other things (such as dampers/shocks) being equal.

 

[tannerk89]

Thanks Mark. I wish I lived closer also - it would be great to meet you.

I have done some major maintenance on my cars in the past, so I think I can do it. I am just worried about raising the car. I wish I had your set up!

I’ll be getting mine tomorrow and it looks like you’re in VA also.. I’ll be installing mine fairly soon after I get it. I’m outside Roanoke, let me know if you are nearby!

 

[mkhuffman]

I’ll be getting mine tomorrow and it looks like you’re in VA also.. I’ll be installing mine fairly soon after I get it. I’m outside Roanoke, let me know if you are nearby!

I was born in Roanoke and my mom lives there. She is in bad shape so I come into town to see her as often as I can. Probably not a good time to work on our cars, but maybe a beer or something.

 

[markboris]

@markboris, I am pretty sure I have asked this before, but never got an answer I understood.

Since Magna Ride started life as a modification, if you wanted to spend the $$$ could it be added to a Sel standard battery MME? Also do you think that the smaller lighter battery pack might have less bounce than the GTPE?

Thanks for all your postings.

Hi Richard, Steve above could not have said it better ( #39 ).

I hope Bilstein comes out with some shocks for the Mach-E. Especially their B6 series. I think that would tame those springs down a lot.

 

[mkhuffman]

Hi Richard, Steve above could not have said it better ( #39 ).

I hope Bilstein comes out with some shocks for the Mach-E. Especially their B6 series. I think that would tame those springs down a lot.

Steeda sway bar and Bilstein adjustable shocks would be perfect. I think.

 

[Scooby24]

Hey @markboris I'm just going to lube up the stock bushings. Is it possible to just take off the bushing straps and peel the bushings off the bar or are they not split bushings that have to be slipped on?

 

[markboris]

Hey @markboris I'm just going to lube up the stock bushings. Is it possible to just take off the bushing straps and peel the bushings off the bar or are they not split bushings that have to be slipped on?

While those bushings are split, it is not like they just pop off. There is a metal spring retainer vulcanized inside the bushing holding it tight against the bar. They don't slide and trying to split them open is very difficult. Not sure why Ford designed it like this. Never seen a bushing so tight around a bar before. It's not going to be easy to move them or get under them to grease.

In the photo below, you can see an outline of a circle close to the bar. That is a metal spring holding that bushing tight against the bar.

 

[21st Century Pony]

Hi Richard, Steve above could not have said it better ( #39 ).

I hope Bilstein comes out with some shocks for the Mach-E. Especially their B6 series. I think that would tame those springs down a lot.

Definite +1 for the Bilstein B6s.

Sponsored