Trunk button(s)

[JeffGo]

Last week, I finally got around to installing the parts I ordered back in December. You know, waiting for good weather, etc.

The parts place of course rips you off by selling a pack of connectors that says right on it, 5 pieces, return if opened. But only one wire in the opened and taped package. I didn't use it anyway.

What I did was cut down the switch connector to better expose the terminals using a razor saw. Then I soldered wires directly to them, covered in shrink tubing. Then I used some vampire taps I had for, oh, 40 years, to connect to the appropriate existing wires.

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[markboris]

Actually, Ford's already taken care of that. New models no longer have the lower button, which is unfortunate since it was easier to reach and lit up for added convenience.

I added that button back in. So did Steve (HuntingPudel) and Joe (JoeyD)

 

[toddy616]

First post here - coming from a 17 Fusion Sport and was waiting to see if Ford would add cooled/ventilated seats to the MME. Glad that they finally did, and just got my 25 Premium AWD ER. This mod and the Max Defrost/Trunk button swap are at the top of my list. Wanted to say thanks for the guidance and also add a little to the conversation.

Coincidentally, I found that the Start/Stop button and this interior trunk button use the same connector. The 25s come without the green LED on the Start/Stop button, and I wanted to try swapping with a pre-25 version because I like the green LED that blinks when the car is in accessory mode. Compared to ICE cars, it isn't always obvious if the car is ready to go because there is no engine noise or vibration. Unfortunately, the harness that connects to the Start/Stop button seems to be missing the wire that either supplies power to the LED or communicates with the LED, so that project was a failure.

Fortunately, in comparing the two parts, it looked like they use the same connector, so I took a chance and picked up an ignition harness and connector on ebay for about $20. I went with part number JC3T-14C210, which is supposed to be for an 18-21 Expedition, because it was the cheapest I could find. Good news is that the harness fit perfectly, and the part I got from ebay came with all the wires, so I could repurpose them. Should help with keeping the connection secure and give it an OEM look.

 

[Chapron]

Hello I used the guide from this thread zu successfulle install the switch at the lid. Thanks for rhe helpful Information here and the member who did the work to document it here. Next will be the mod for the light switch to add a button there!

 

[NY_Cade69]

Hey Mick, yesterday I installed the recently ('24 MY) deleted lighted liftgate switch. I did not have much time and only took a few photos. I purchased the switch, cover (plate switch fits into) and 3 terminal/wires. I could have bought the prewired plug/connector that fits into the switch but Ford wants $55 for it and I just used three prewired pin terminals.

Switch part# JL1Z-54432A38-AA $20
Cover part# LJ8Z-5840726-B $16
Terminal/wire part# DU2Z-14474-CA $6 each (need 3)

I removed all the interior liftgate trim (everything unsnaps, no screws). Removed the plug/connectors going to the rubber exterior liftgate switch and to the license plate light. Both are within a few inches of each other. You need to make three connections. On the plug for the rubber liftgate switch, tap into both the wires coming off of it. The black/violet wire is ground and the brown wire is the liftgate motor trigger. On the plug for the license plate light, tap into the Blue/gray wire which is 12+ for when the lights are on.

Once I tapped into those wires on the plugs, I taped them up and reconnected to the liftgate switch and license plate light. The wires on the terminal/wire the I got are long enough to go right over to the hole where the lighted switch will be installed. I put heat shrink tubing on the ends of the terminals so when I attached them to the pins inside the switch, they would not contact each other.

The ground wire attaches to pin 2, 12+ (lighting) to pin 3 and the liftgate motor trigger to pin 6. I then taped up the wires together and to the body of the switch so that they would not vibrate out even though the terminals fit snug onto the pins. The switch works just like the rubber one does (opens/closes liftgate) and it also will set the height of the liftgate just like the original one did. AND it is illuminated so much easier to see in the dark.

I didn't have more than an hour or so to work on this and took the photos quickly so not the best.

@markboris for the win again!!!
I found the mounting plate and switch on eBay. I had enough (the 3 wires/pins from the pigtail I got with the donor switch for the front liftgate switch) to get this wired in. Next step will probably be to do the ev-vida kick.

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