UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce.

[azerik]

Got out and handled the iron remover and collected datas. Not 100% sure what I collected will matter a whole lot but I did opt for the front console charging pad for phone placement for the data recording. Also did videos, which kinda show you what I've got going on.

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[SinaiKD]

Great Thread! Thanks for the testing. Anxiously awaiting the next results.

 

[mkhuffman]

How do you like the steed a sway bars?

I think they are amazing. They transform the handling of the car. However, modification is needed to prevent interference.

 

[azerik]

I think they are amazing. They transform the handling of the car. However, modification is needed to prevent interference.

Like absolutely everything in 2023. User intervention required for figuring out how to install it, make it fit, fix the fitment issues etc.

 

[HuntingPudel]

Like absolutely everything in 2023. User intervention required for figuring out how to install it, make it fit, fix the fitment issues etc.

LOL I was thinking of bending my own, but it’s way easier to just buy these even with the mods required To keep from hitting the tie rod ends. ??

 

[MachETX]

There are thousands of Mach-E owners that are very happy with the ride, then there are those that believe it is the worst riding car they have ever owned and then there are those in-between. One thing for sure, it has been a hot topic on this forum as evidence from one of the longest running threads we have ( #1 ).

There are so many variables with this issue and that's why I think we have a big discrepancy. Some owners with the magneride suspension love it and have no issues, others think it could definitely be improved, myself for starters. The non-magneride models are all different depending on standard battery, extended battery, RWD, AWD. Then we have the tires which really do make a difference on how the car rides as has been stated many times by owners, me included. Above all, there are the various types of roads everyone drives on. I have absolutely no roads anywhere within 2 hours of where I live that induce any bouncing and yet some owners have to drive over these types of roads every day. I can go on and on but these things have been beaten to death so I'm going to stop here.

I'm not any type of a suspension expert while many here are (Steve HuntingPudel for one) but wanted to set out to see what I could do to tame the bouncing of this car. I know if you put 6 or more cases of water in the cargo area, the bounce literally disappears. This tells me the car has very firm springs in the rear, as it should to handle the extra weight of a fully loaded car of passengers and cargo. However, when the car is not weighted down, over certain road conditions, it can bounce like the empty bed of a truck. I figured maybe what I could do is replace the springs with air bags and see how that goes. While I did have a great ride with a full air bag suspension, virtually no bounce, I had a lot of other issues that needed to be addressed in customizing brackets and spacers and after one month of doing this, I didn't feel like going at it any further ( #1 ). I could have gone the coil over route (KW make an excellent kit) but that is more on the expensive side for those who just want to try and soften their bucking pony driving to work.

Sticking with the OEM springs, the only other thing we can do to try and tame the ride is change out the shocks. Again, while I am not a suspension expert, I feel the shocks are not firm enough to settle the springs down fast enough. So, I set out to find shocks that would closely match our rear OEM's which I did and I'm testing them out with Anton (eidbanger) on his Premium with OEM wheels and tires. He does have aftermarket wheels and tires which actually make the ride a bit better but changed to the OEM's to keep it more fare since most people don't change their wheels and tires.

Last week, I posted on fitting & testing rear shocks in the bounce thread but thought I should start a new thread. ( #1,322 ) << Please read this post as it explains more about this project with photos.
This post explains a little more about the particular shocks ( #1,325 )

Today, Anton had a bit of time so I went over to his place and installed the Koni's in his premium. Now, I am not use to Anton's car and he will be posting explaining in more detail how it rode and he will also have some data as he monitored each run with some type of motion app (not sure what it was). On the softest setting, they were worse than the OEM shocks. On the middle setting he said it was possiblely a bit better than OEM. Then went to the firmest setting and he had a huge smile on his face and said, my back end is barely bouncing. Again he will post here and explain in more detail with data but I know he would not let me take the shocks off the car. ? He wants to drive around with them for a week at which time I will go back down to his place and we will swap the Koni's for the Bilstein's.

On another note, we took my car out on the same stretch of bouncy road to see how the magneride did. With my car set to Unbridled, we both had a hard time finding a difference but decided if we had to pick, it would be the Koni's. Going over speed bumps at a slow speed, the Koni't definitely had the advantage as the rear went up, down and settled where as the magneride has a slight second bounce (which is why I think Ford needs to improve the tuning of the magneride VDM module).

Sorry for this long winded post. I wasn't sure even if changing out just the rear shocks would make a difference but it definitely does.

Both Anton and I will be adding to this thread as we do more testing. I think he may even post some charts off his motion app. He is backed up with work so don't expect him to post for at least a few days to a week.

I want to mention the Erik (azerik) is also working on some QA1 rear shocks and we are anxious to hear what his results are.

View attachment 95187

Just a thought see if you can get a portable accelerometer to qua tiny the difference instead of relying on subjective (personal observed) results. If I am not mistaken the I phone has an app which can act as that in a limited capacity. If not there are readily available accelerometers. Like your efforts, I am interested in the results. I have a GTPE.

 

[markboris]

Just a thought see if you can get a portable accelerometer to qua tiny the difference instead of relying on subjective (personal observed) results. If I am not mistaken the I phone has an app which can act as that in a limited capacity. If not there are readily available accelerometers. Like your efforts, I am interested in the results. I have a GTPE.

Not sure if you’ve read this thread but we are doing this.

 

[JohnFoxeSheets]

Not sure if you’ve read this thread but we are doing this.

RTFT ?

 

[HuntingPudel]

Just a thought see if you can get a portable accelerometer to qua tiny the difference instead of relying on subjective (personal observed) results. If I am not mistaken the I phone has an app which can act as that in a limited capacity. If not there are readily available accelerometers. Like your efforts, I am interested in the results. I have a GTPE.

Mark has a GT-PE (he also used to have a Premium). He is selecting the shocks and sending them to owners of non-PEs because they are much more subject to the uncontrolled oscillation behavior. Additionally, the Magneride cars will probably throw errors if the Magneride shocks are not connected. ?‍?

 

[markboris]

Quick update, besides the Bilstein B6 and Koni Sport Yellow Mustang shocks, I have been testing three different Bilstein B8 Truck shocks (Ranger, F250, Toyota 4 Runner). All the B8's seem to be very similar if not the same in performance. However all the B8's have firm compression and somewhat week rebound even though they are self adjusting shocks (based on road conditions). The B6 is more 50/50 which is better but not has HD of a shock than the B8's with their larger piston rod and body. The Koni still has the better combo with a weaker compression and stiffer rebound.

Today I just got in the Viking dual adjustable shock and this one may just be what we want. It is the most heavy duty of all of them and because it is both compression and rebound adjustable, might be able to dial it in a bit better. I was originally looking for a more economical choice but if it does not do the trick, might just have to go with the ones that do. These are hand made to specs and if they work out, I can have them change out the bushings and rod end to fit the Mach-E without me having to add these extra parts. The Vikings are a bit more than the Koni's at $225 each. Really excited to try these out on Anton's car.

A couple of photos of the Viking. I used one of the Bilsten B8 dust boots which fit perfectly, ordered more. The Ford upper mount also fits well. I did not have the top dust cap on this when took the photo. They offer a chart suggesting different settings depending on usage. The chart states for a comfort ride to have the rebound stiffer than the compression which is what I have been trying to achieve and only the Koni's set on the most firm setting does this until now that I got the Vikings.

 

[markboris]

Mark has a GT-PE (he also used to have a Premium). He is selecting the shocks and sending them to owners of non-PEs because they are much more subject to the uncontrolled oscillation behavior. Additionally, the Magneride cars will probably throw errors if the Magneride shocks are not connected. ?‍?

I can bypass the Magneride system without it throwing errors.

 

[azerik]

$225 is $10 more than I paid for the single adjust QA1s. Whats the warranty like on the Viking.

I've said it all along, it needed heaps more rebound dampening. Compression adjustment settings will be weaker for those of us with the Steeda bars as the bar stiffens the compression. Having the ability to dial that for those on stock bars is going to be helpful. Not quite 2 birds 1 stone but def would help those without the rear bar.
QA1’s settings are pretty much the same

 

[Anton]

2nd ride test on the Konis with the wife riding in the back. She says the ride has improved significantly. She doesn't really feel the jolts. She says she doesn't feel any aggressive up and down motion any more. The drive is more calm and even. No bucking.

 

[azerik]

That's with the Koni's in there now?

 

[kennethjk]

$225 is $10 more than I paid for the single adjust QA1s. Whats the warranty like on the Viking.

I've said it all along, it needed heaps more rebound dampening. Compression adjustment settings will be weaker for those of us with the Steeda bars as the bar stiffens the compression. Having the ability to dial that for those on stock bars is going to be helpful. Not quite 2 birds 1 stone but def would help those without the rear bar.
QA1’s settings are pretty much the same

Since the Vikings are more adjustable they might be the better choice and since only 2 are needed for the back not a terrible cost for most people. Of course assuming they help

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