Probably best to read from the start, a lot of info is covered on what they are doing and should answer any of your questions.
Note that the crew is still undergoing testing. As of this point they’re going to start testing the Vikings (I wonder if they’re Danes, Norse, Svear, or…?). ?? It will probably be a while before they can qualify and quantify the information they’re gathering. Stay tuned! ??
Any relation to Yung Money Kyle (Son of Lars), who unfortunately drives a Brand X for Hendrick Motorsports. ??
Yes, Andy got about 4K from his GTPE Pirelli Summer tires. I took my GTPE Pirelli summer tires off as soon as I got my car and put them on my Premium then sold to my friend. He put 16,000 miles on them (14 months) and they were still in decent shape when he sold them with the wheels. They were inflated to 39 psi and he drives strictly highway. There are several members here getting decent tread life out of them, others not. I know if I had them on my car, I would probably not get anymore than Andy did.
Nope, not kin.
The bounciness is an effect of the dampers not having enough rebound resistance. In a lot of cases, cargo gets airborne not because of the initial compression of the suspension, but because of the quick extension of the suspension followed by the abrupt cessation of the extension (which is what happens with insufficient rebound resistance). I am willing to bet that my Trans Am feels less harsh than a non-Magneride MME over washboard roads, despite the fact that the T/A has metal on Delrin on metal suspension bearings instead of rubber bushings. Its Konis are set to just past medium (although they are from 1979 and need replacement). ??
Not really sure. My Celicas had their Konis set about 7/8 to full firm and I never had an issue. My T/A I mostly run around 5/8 with occasional forays out to full or whatever is necessary for the conditions and they need to be replaced after 40+ years. ?
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That makes a lot of sense as you've described it. Thanks!! This is a great thread.
I would think that just changing the rear springs to a lower rate would imbalance the car. If you're going to do that, you should probably swap both the fronts and the rears. You still might have an imbalance, but less of one. Since the ER battery adds more weight to the rear than to the front, the rear spprings would have a lower rate than the ER rear springs and the front springs would have less rate than the ER front springs, but the percentage difference between spring rates would be larger for the rear springs. I don't honestly know the spring rates for the different battery/drive combinations, so that's just an educated guess. ??
