JohnFoxeSheets

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They're almost all like that. All the way down my 'major road' in my area the asphalt is usually 1/2 inch higher or lower on one side. Every 6 to 10 feet theres a split all the way across the street like this. Some are probably 2+ inches.
In AZ it's the heat, in AK is the permafrost. But SF has no (good) excuse.
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HuntingPudel

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They're almost all like that. All the way down my 'major road' in my area the asphalt is usually 1/2 inch higher or lower on one side. Every 6 to 10 feet theres a split all the way across the street like this. Some are probably 2+ inches. They repaved the road I used to live on 10 years ago. I refused to drive that road so much I'd shoot across the street and drive over speed humps to get through a neighborhood just to avoid these cracks. And I hate speed bumps/humps. Now that road is like glass. If I'm really lucky we're next on the paving list.

Side note. Yesterday I rode in a 2yr old Mini Cooper S. And was amazed at how well it can shake a drink right out of your hand. I just. Wow. Just. Yikes.
ROFL. You ought to feel what a car feels like with no rubber in the suspension Erik. Whee! ??
 

mikenindorf

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Heh,
I wanted to let you all know that I was on the Koni Shock web site, and sent them a request last week about shocks for a MME. This week, I had good call with a Koni Shock representative.
He stated that they are seriously considering creating an OE shock. He did not promise anything as they build based on demand and cost and some other factors. Cost- do they have to make special brackets or ... I did mention this forum, and that on this forum, one of the posters, with minor modifications, adapted a set of 2014 (?) Mustang shocks. Felt like he read / knew about that. He asked me NOT to share his name or email, so I will not.
 

mkhuffman

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Heh,
I wanted to let you all know that I was on the Koni Shock web site, and sent them a request last week about shocks for a MME. This week, I had good call with a Koni Shock representative.
He stated that they are seriously considering creating an OE shock. He did not promise anything as they build based on demand and cost and some other factors. Cost- do they have to make special brackets or ... I did mention this forum, and that on this forum, one of the posters, with minor modifications, adapted a set of 2014 (?) Mustang shocks. Felt like he read / knew about that. He asked me NOT to share his name or email, so I will not.
You can tell them I will buy them, especially if they make a front strut. Are they just looking at the rear, or the front also?
 

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They most likely know because of Mark speaking with them.

The Koni’s came in yesterday, I’m going to try to ā€˜pop’ them on this morning. I don’t have a life and actually remove the tires but I have it down to about 15 min a side.

QA1, Viking and Koni have all been well informed lol.
 


HuntingPudel

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Heh,
I wanted to let you all know that I was on the Koni Shock web site, and sent them a request last week about shocks for a MME. This week, I had good call with a Koni Shock representative.
He stated that they are seriously considering creating an OE shock. He did not promise anything as they build based on demand and cost and some other factors. Cost- do they have to make special brackets or ... I did mention this forum, and that on this forum, one of the posters, with minor modifications, adapted a set of 2014 (?) Mustang shocks. Felt like he read / knew about that. He asked me NOT to share his name or email, so I will not.
Given the recent factory capacity increases, the potential market will be much larger by the time they finish re-designing hardware. I am rooting for a solution to come to market even though my car has Magneride. ??
 

mikenindorf

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I feel this is helping with this by putting the back in line with the front. Over expansion joints there is a more noticeable thump from the rear. But over man hole covers, and actual issues on the road i feel currently 2c/14r is really close to matching the pitch from the front.

Stock 19's with AS3's The AS3's were about to let go on that corner but the sway bars helped keep it planted. GT wheels and tires soon. But I don't expect a night and day diff with them. If they were Pilot4's or the Scorpions Mark mentioned maybe.

Currently any adjustment 0-13 can be done by hand quickly. I have a packing blanket I keep in the back of the car. Pull over somewhere and can roll with my finger either knob on either shock. Once you get up over 13 the knob becomes harder to roll and requires a bit more work. I have rolled them up to 18 but 17 and 18 clicks were killing my finger.

Here's a top down image of the knobs.

IMG_4182.JPG

Note that little nub on the arm pivot, put dents in my single adjusts because the knob on those are centered. I was also lucky enough that Summit knocks $58 off my latest shock purchase. Had they done that the first time around I would have had duals from day one.

I'm still playing with it but am quite happy with the results. Picking my wife up from the airport. We'll see if she says anything.
Hi-- do you happen to havet the Par number you order from Summit (is that summit racing). Sorry if i missed it in the reading)
 

mikenindorf

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Hi-- do you happen to havet the Par number you order from Summit (is that summit racing). Sorry if i missed it in the reading)
 

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Hi-- do you happen to havet the Par number you order from Summit (is that summit racing). Sorry if i missed it in the reading)
They plan to post all the part numbers and specifics when they have finished the evaluation and determine which setup works best.
 

azerik

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I just got done putting the Koni’s on and taking it for 30 minute drive around all of the roads that annoyed me in the past, and I am very happy with the performance of the shocks.
The Vikings actually transmit it so much road noise into the cab that I was debating whether or not to continue Dyna matting the rest of the interior. But because they are gas charged, they keep the tire planted so you don’t have the road noise from the tire. This is fantastic because I was getting tons of noise from the Vikings. Part of that was a rubbing of the knobs on the control arm. This could also ā€˜self adjust’ the knobs I think.
Mark and I’ll continue working on this but I would totally agree with Anton and the fact that I’m not giving these back would be the best decision he could make!
It’s not luxury SUV but it’s very very livable.
 

azerik

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While the Vikings/QA1's did the job they created noise, both from the urethane bushings and from the way they handled the rebound. Due to NOT being gas charged the shock would stall between the time it went from compression phase to the rebound phase. This was just long enough that expansion joints became louder because the tire was probably airborne for a split second while the stroke stalled. This caused louder than normal feedback from the tires. it also translated as shock to the upper mount, which reverberated through my wheel wells. The Koni's don't have this.

I've also swapped to 20's with the factory GT wheels and Conti's. I ran about 150 miles of adjustments with the Vikings and these wheels/tires as well as with the factory AS3's) Far Far less road noise than the AS3's on the factory 19's. Current cold tire pressure is 36 front 40.5 rear. I get a little bounce in concrete sections under 35mph. it'll balance out if run faster. I have 2 sections that are fully terrible if taken at less than 25 mph which is on my 8 mile round trip daily. I know I can dial it out with tire pressure adjustments, but it becomes an issue somewhere else usually (road noise over cracks in the road if I air up, larger bounce over expansion joints if I air down.) I'll keep messing around as I noticed the Conti's have a side to side wobble if around 36 psi.

Anton is correct in that the ride is firmer when hitting things. Sometimes I can still get a good whoop section going because some of our intersections are literally jumps. I have previously put sunlight under the tires of my Lightning and Porsche on these intersections. They arn't friendly at all, but the MME takes it in stride with Koni's/Vikings with the rebound cranked.

For the average driver and even the slightly more aggressive ones the Koni's are the ticket and fantastic bang for the buck.

For anyone wanting to track the car or run hard mountain corners, Viking/QA1's as you'll need and want the compression adjustment. I found the Viking's to run very well with 0 or 1 click of compression. For tracking you'll want 2 to 3 clicks most likely.

At the end of the day either set of shocks works very well to rein this car in. It's a matter of price and noise that you want to deal with.

How to with parts and DIY install coming (because this is quite simple as long as you can torque the bolts, easier than the sway bars by far)
Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_4305
 

azerik

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Hi-- do you happen to havet the Par number you order from Summit (is that summit racing). Sorry if i missed it in the reading)
I'd personally skip the Vikings/QA1's unless you really really want the compression adjustment. I could sell you the set of QA1's I'm going to try to return to Summit. All in all TD906's ran $550 to my door, plus mount, adapter bushing and bump stop.
 

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Good stuff @azerik . I'm glad that we both came to the same conclusion on the Konis. We don't get the luxurious ride that some people on this forum are looking for. They firm up the ride but remove the resonating bounce (at least on my road). I do feel more of the road imperfections, but I like that. And I especially like that my neck doesn't get tired anymore.

I also enjoy the improved handling. Feel like I can take corners more aggressively now.

Best bang for the buck, so far.
 
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I’m not going to be ordering anymore shocks to try out. I’ve gone through about 12 different pairs for fitment and performance. Looks like the Koni’s Anton and I installed on his car over a month ago still seem to be the best choice until Koni comes out with a dedicated shock for the Mach-E.

After Eric’s positive review today, I think we will just stick with these. There are 3 slightly different variants of the Koni’s and I’m going to check to make sure which ones come the closest to fit with the least modifications. I will be posting at the end of next week, the model Koni’s I decide on and the extra parts needed, modifications and photos. I’ll post both if you what to use some of the parts off your OEM shocks to save money or leave them in tack and buy extra parts. I’ll list part numbers for all parts.

I want to stress again that while these have worked out well for several members, they may not work for everyone. The more people try them, the more we will know.

I would like to start work on the front struts but that’s going to take much more time and most likely welding. I’ve had one generous member offer his help with the welding on these. I’m hopeful Koni will come out Wouk sometime soon so we don’t have to go that far.
 
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