Will this easily jump start a dead Mach-E? 12v battery boost from NOCO

[luckie]

Will the NOCO Boost X with 1250 amps work easily jump starting a dead Mach-E? I hear the NOCO booster Jump Starters are good and particularly for the Mach-E because they have the little manual override button which can first get you into the frunk via the wires in the front bumper, even though the jumper is not sensing attachment to a battery. BUT which size would you buy? I also heard while the Mach-E 12V battery is small, jumping it works best with something designed for a BIG truck.

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[RickMachE]

I'm not an electrician or engineer, nor do I play one on TV... The issue with most vehicles is providing cold cranking amps when jump starting. That's why you connect the vehicles, then give the starting vehicle some gas and try to start the dead one.

The Mach-E doesn't crank anything. The 12v battery merely activates the systems. So, when you "jump" a Mach-E, you're merely recharging the 12v battery. Therefore, anything providing more power than needed to recharge that battery is simply overkill. Have no idea what the least expensive device would be, but 1,250 amps seems way overkill.

 

[agdad]

I used mine to jump a Dodge Hellcat two weeks ago.....the Dodge tuned over like it had a brand new battery in it and started instantly ! VERY IMPRESSED !

 

[dtbaker61]

I'm not an electrician or engineer, nor do I play one on TV... The issue with most vehicles is providing cold cranking amps when jump starting. That's why you connect the vehicles, then give the starting vehicle some gas and try to start the dead one.

The Mach-E doesn't crank anything. The 12v battery merely activates the systems. So, when you "jump" a Mach-E, you're merely recharging the 12v battery. Therefore, anything providing more power than needed to recharge that battery is simply overkill. Have no idea what the least expensive device would be, but 1,250 amps seems way overkill.

exactly.
cold cranking amps are irrelevant in our case with the MME.

Just regular jumper cable connected to a running vehicle for a good 20-30 minutes will be more effective for what we need which is to dump enough energy into the 12v b to fire up all the computers and hope to get to the nearest Ford Dealership.

At this point the chances are (unfortunately) if your 12v battery isn't charging, it may be the HVBJB problem, and it will need to be at the Dealership for remove/replace. A dead 12v in our case is just a symptom. replacing or charging the 12v battery will likely NOT fix the problem long term, it will just discharge again if it is not getting charged correctly from the HV system.

 

[luckie]

exactly.
cold cranking amps are irrelevant in our case with the MME.

Just regular jumper cable connected to a running vehicle for a good 20-30 minutes will be more effective for what we need which is to dump enough energy into the 12v b to fire up all the computers and hope to get to the nearest Ford Dealership.

At this point the chances are (unfortunately) if your 12v battery isn't charging, it may be the HVBJB problem, and it will need to be at the Dealership for remove/replace. A dead 12v in our case is just a symptom. replacing or charging the 12v battery will likely NOT fix the problem long term, it will just discharge again if it is not getting charged correctly from the HV system.

Thanks for chiming in. I know you have experience with the Mach-E and issues that have come up. I'm not focused on the HVBJB concern in this case, yet it is certainly a worry for all of us. My car is not currently having any problems, I'm just preparing for any 12V battery-related situations. Any stuff I can control and perhaps overcome on my own during a roadtrip. Also seems likely that my car just sat, somewhere on chip hold(?) or something, for months (built July 2021, arrived at dealership March 2022) so not super confident in my current 12V battery. Thus want to be able to try to jump start if needed. And I'm curious what NOCO might work best, if one would work. I do understand if my HVBJB bricks the car, it might seem like it's the 12V battery but jump starting ain't going to fix that.

 

[Mach-Lee]

I prefer the GOOLOO brand jump starters, they provide more cranking amps and cost less than the NOCO. They also have an override button. Project Farm did a comparison.

 

[Chuck]

It should do the job. But if your 12v battery is dead and the NOCO Boost X is inside the car how do you intend on retrieving it? You need the NOCO Boost X to pop open the frunk, but it's locked inside the car.

 

[luckie]

It should do the job. But if your 12v battery is dead and the NOCO Boost X is inside the car how do you intend on retrieving it? You need the NOCO Boost X to pop open the frunk, but it's locked inside the car.

Yes, I know, here's what I'm thinking. Keep the NOCO where I am. It's small, just make it part of my luggage. Hence if car is dead when I go to use it that day I can use NOCO to get into frunk and then to jump the 12V battery. If for some reason the car dies while driving or when I'm inside it, I should be able to get to the NOCO and get outside the car. It is unfortunate that there is no physical key that works with the Mach-E, although we have an uncut one in our fob designed for just that specific purpose. They will likely fix that eventually.

 

[dtbaker61]

Thanks for chiming in. I know you have experience with the Mach-E and issues that have come up. I'm not focused on the HVBJB concern in this case, yet it is certainly a worry for all of us. My car is not currently having any problems, I'm just preparing for any 12V battery-related situations. Any stuff I can control and perhaps overcome on my own during a roadtrip. Also seems likely that my car just sat, somewhere on chip hold(?) or something, for months (built July 2021, arrived at dealership March 2022) so not super confident in my current 12V battery. Thus want to be able to try to jump start if needed. And I'm curious what NOCO might work best, if one would work. I do understand if my HVBJB bricks the car, it might seem like it's the 12V battery but jump starting ain't going to fix that.

regardless of root cause, if you have a 12v battery problem, regular jumper cables to a running vehicle will be much better than one of these 'jump starters' that are designed to turn over an ICE motor. regular old style Jumper cables would be way better to have in your cargo toolkit.

 

[MachEMaster]

Thanks for chiming in. I know you have experience with the Mach-E and issues that have come up. I'm not focused on the HVBJB concern in this case, yet it is certainly a worry for all of us. My car is not currently having any problems, I'm just preparing for any 12V battery-related situations. Any stuff I can control and perhaps overcome on my own during a roadtrip. Also seems likely that my car just sat, somewhere on chip hold(?) or something, for months (built July 2021, arrived at dealership March 2022) so not super confident in my current 12V battery. Thus want to be able to try to jump start if needed. And I'm curious what NOCO might work best, if one would work. I do understand if my HVBJB bricks the car, it might seem like it's the 12V battery but jump starting ain't going to fix that.

I was thinking along the exact same line as you. I am going to purchase a power pack to keep in my rucksack to open the Frunk, and provide power to the 12v battery.

 

[dtbaker61]

I was thinking along the exact same line as you. I am going to purchase a power pack to keep in my rucksack to open the Frunk, and provide power to the 12v battery.

this type of 'power pack' is NOT useful for providing enough Energy to our MME's 12v. It would pop the trunk, but does NOT have much Energy to transfer into the 12v battery to 'run' our 12v system for very long.

Look at the total ah in the thing.... it would only give our (little) 12v battery a partial charge, and maybe not even get the voltage up enough for long enough to keep our 12v system computers, relays, contacts, etc all happy for very long.

you will be much better off with just 'regular' jumper cables connected to a running vehicle.... both to pop the Frunk, and then attach to 12v connections for a good 20-30 minutes to give the onboard 12v battery a good solid charge.

 

[luckie]

regardless of root cause, if you have a 12v battery problem, regular jumper cables to a running vehicle will be much better than one of these 'jump starters' that are designed to turn over an ICE motor. regular old style Jumper cables would be way better to have in your cargo toolkit.

Hmmm... I think I'm starting to better understand the dramatic difference here between the 12V battery on the EV (Mach-E) versus the traditional gasoline ICE car. While a small power bank like the NOCO or Gooloo can deliver a short burst 10-20s to get an ICE engine to turnover and started which is all you need, (like shown in the nice review of these by Project Farm, thx Mach-Lee), since after that the ICE engine runs and becomes the power plant for the car whenever running and the 12V battery can remain dead after the gas engine is started up.

It is somewhat different for the Mach-E. You need continuous battery power from the 12V battery while the vehicle is running. Thus none of these 10-20s pulses from a power bank (e.g NOCO and Gooloo) would work to resurrect the 12V battery enough for the Mach-E, unless they could quickly re-charge the built-in battery in 10-20s but that is not going to happen. The power pack would definitely let you open the frunk, and maybe if attached to jump the 12V battery would help boot the car for a few seconds, at most get doors open, but not even long enough to get the car into neutral to tow, or definitely not help solve the dead 12V battery.

Am I overstating the *lack* of utility of the NOCO or GooLoo in this circumstance with the Mach-E?

 

[kltye]

this type of 'power pack' is NOT useful for providing enough Energy to our MME's 12v. It would pop the trunk, but does NOT have much Energy to transfer into the 12v battery to 'run' our 12v system for very long.

Look at the total ah in the thing.... it would only give our (little) 12v battery a partial charge, and maybe not even get the voltage up enough for long enough to keep our 12v system computers, relays, contacts, etc all happy for very long.

you will be much better off with just 'regular' jumper cables connected to a running vehicle.... both to pop the Frunk, and then attach to 12v connections for a good 20-30 minutes to give the onboard 12v battery a good solid charge.

I think you're assuming the DC-DC converter doesn't work at all. I'd like to think of this as overcoming a software issue where the DC-DC converter didn't turn on to charge the LVB while the car was turned off. Once the car boots, the DC-DC converter should kick in and you're good to go.

If the car needs to be juiced up to enable tow mode, I'm sure if you timed it correctly, you'd be able to boot the car and go to the Sync screen to do that. 31 watt-hours isn't a ton of energy, but it should power the car's electronics for at least 5-10 minutes.

 

[AllenXS]

If the 12V is dead because its failed, then pop the frunk and replace it.
If its because of HVBJB or similar, call the tow truck and follow all the tips online.
Having been threw the HVBJB and done some follow-up I no longer see it as the creeping threat I once did, so I wouldn't panic about that. Just enjoy and drive.

 

[leeman]

Those little devices you carry specifically to pop the front trunk so you can access the battery only. If this happens at home take the battery out and slow charge it or buy a new one.

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