Target Charge Level Not to full capacity

HuntingPudel

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What should be done to get 250-270 miles range, drive lower speeds?
I fully do not expect to get even 250 out of a full battery on my GT-PE on a warm day. I drive roughly around 65, but I am known to stick my right foot into it all too often. There were times that I literally got gallons per mile with my Blazer. ???
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AKgrampy

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What could be causing conitnous amber light on the charger unit?
Several people have posted that your plug (30A) is too small. You should also inspect it right away as the overload is most likely heating it up and may have caused damage.
 

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What should be done to get 250-270 miles range, drive lower speeds?
I drove from Placerville (halfway between Sacramento and S. Lake Tahoe) to Pasadena (east of L.A.), a distance of 420 miles. The drive included driving over the Tehachapi mountain range between the Central Valley desert and L.A.. The weather was ideal (about 70°), except when in the mountains (55°-35°). The Nav and radio were always on. No AC or heater was ever used, but the seat and steering wheel heaters were used in the mountains. No fans were used, and the windows were always rolled up. I stopped midway at Harris Ranch Inn (12 Tesla Superchargers, 6 150 kw Ford-compatible chargers), where I did my only recharge (during a 1.5 hour dinner), which took me from 0% to 86% charge. I arrived at my Pasadena hotel at 1% charge, and charged overnight on their destination chargers (40-amp). My Mach-E GTPE, running 245/45R20 Michelin CrossClimate 2 snow tires (39 psi cold, 41-42 psi hot), showed a range of 252 miles at this point. Note that I did the ENTIRE drive at between 74 mph (65 limit) and 77 mph (70 limit).
 
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dml105

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What kind of plug do you have your Ford Mobile Charger plugged into? Is it a NEMA 14-50? Are you using an adapter? (Don't.)
 

Kevin P

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OP doesn't seem interested in answering questions. And you are not going to get 250-270 miles reliably at 75-80 in a Mach E. So, what must be done, is to get a different car.
 


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OP doesn't seem interested in answering questions. And you are not going to get 250-270 miles reliably at 75-80 in a Mach E. So, what must be done, is to get a different car.
Seems like a nonsensical response. I got exactly what he's claiming that you can't get. My car, a GTPE, gets the WORST mileage of any of the extended-range Mach-Es. So, what must be done, is to ignore him. A lot of people are incredibly resistant to change. Note how just about everyone with an EV, when asked, says "I'll NEVER go back to ICE cars"? Evolve or die...
 

AKgrampy

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Seems like a nonsensical response. I got exactly what he's claiming that you can't get. My car, a GTPE, gets the WORST mileage of any of the extended-range Mach-Es. So, what must be done, is to ignore him. A lot of people are incredibly resistant to change. Note how just about everyone with an EV, when asked, says "I'll NEVER go back to ICE cars"? Evolve or die...
I think the OP has several issues rolled into one posting. I could be wrong though. First they had an update that reset the cars data and now has a more accurate GOM. It also appears they are charging their car overnight and then does not have sufficient charge to drive RT to work. That is because (probably) of the third issue which is the orange fault lamp on their charger which is not allowing it to charge at full capacity. Which takes us to the final, and maybe most significant, issue in that the plug is not sized correctly which may be the root of this issue. Once again I may be off base but that is how it looks to me. Hopefully they are reading this and will at least investigate.
 

ChuckA

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What could be causing conitnous amber light on the charger unit?
The 240v wire plug may not be all the way into the Ford mobile charger. Bang it in with the palm of your hand. Is your charger mounted on the wall, or hanging?
 

mkhuffman

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The 240v wire plug may not be all the way into the Ford mobile charger. Bang it in with the palm of your hand. Is your charger mounted on the wall, or hanging?
This is a known issue, but if it occurs, you don't get any current - the charging stops. It does not sound like what the OP is describing.

I am getting around 2.4 mi/kWh when I drive 75-80 in our Virginia March temperatures. In fact, I set my cruise for 80 mph unless the speed limit is less than 65 or the traffic is very heavy. Even then I have it set at 80 and when I have a gap in traffic, up it goes!

2.4 mi/kWh is a range of 211 miles if, IF, the temperature is warm enough that you can use all 88 kWh of the battery. When it is cold, the car limits the charge to less than 88 kWh, therefore lower range. Using the heater will really hurt range, but my GT does not have a glass roof which I think really helps keep the car warmer with less energy. I have not seen huge efficiency improvements as it gets warmer, unlike what others have seen. Probably because I am setting the cruise at 80 mph.

Drive 120 miles every day.
The car should be able to support a 120 mile commute easily even in very cold weather. If it cannot charge back to 100% over night, you will need to get a faster charger. I have a 48 Amp direct wired charger that will take my car from 0% to 100% in about 8 hours. If you have that, you will never worry about having enough charge for your commute.

There are many 48 Amp chargers available. Get one. It is worth it IMO.

As far as your 30 Amp outlet goes, if it is really a 30 Amp outlet, you have a fire hazard as others have posted. What is your circuit breaker size on that outlet? If it is higher than the current rating of your outlet, you also have a fire hazard. If your wiring is rated for 30 Amps it is even worse and you need to stop using that outlet immediately.

As others have posted, you need at least a 40 Amp circuit (outlet and breaker). Most people use the 14-50 outlet which is rated to 50 Amps, wired to a 50 Amp breaker. Make sure the wire is rated for at least 50 Amps also.
 

ChuckA

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This is a known issue, but if it occurs, you don't get any current - the charging stops. It does not sound like what the OP is describing.

I am getting around 2.4 mi/kWh when I drive 75-80 in our Virginia March temperatures. In fact, I set my cruise for 80 mph unless the speed limit is less than 65 or the traffic is very heavy. Even then I have it set at 80 and when I have a gap in traffic, up it goes!

2.4 mi/kWh is a range of 211 miles if, IF, the temperature is warm enough that you can use all 88 kWh of the battery. When it is cold, the car limits the charge to less than 88 kWh, therefore lower range. Using the heater will really hurt range, but my GT does not have a glass roof which I think really helps keep the car warmer with less energy. I have not seen huge efficiency improvements as it gets warmer, unlike what others have seen. Probably because I am setting the cruise at 80 mph.



The car should be able to support a 120 mile commute easily even in very cold weather. If it cannot charge back to 100% over night, you will need to get a faster charger. I have a 48 Amp direct wired charger that will take my car from 0% to 100% in about 8 hours. If you have that, you will never worry about having enough charge for your commute.

There are many 48 Amp chargers available. Get one. It is worth it IMO.

As far as your 30 Amp outlet goes, if it is really a 30 Amp outlet, you have a fire hazard as others have posted. What is your circuit breaker size on that outlet? If it is higher than the current rating of your outlet, you also have a fire hazard. If your wiring is rated for 30 Amps it is even worse and you need to stop using that outlet immediately.

As others have posted, you need at least a 40 Amp circuit (outlet and breaker). Most people use the 14-50 outlet which is rated to 50 Amps, wired to a 50 Amp breaker. Make sure the wire is rated for at least 50 Amps also.
Ford published a spec sheet for the mobile charger 240v outlet. Maybe people should follow it.

I’m in CT and think the eHeat eats battery, maybe 20%. I don’t know where in VA you are but it’s probably pretty cold there also.
 

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Yeah, I think, considering the use case of the OP, most current EVs in this price range might not work for him. This is regardless of the issue he has using a non-spec outlet/breaker/circuit at home. Agreed, he has an issue that he has a 30 AMP circuit, and he needs a 50 AMP, and if he is to continue home charging, had to sort that if he keeps the car. 120 mile commute one way, cold location, no place to charge at work, and no desire to charge on the way (which is understandable) from what I understand. If all of that is true, and this isn't just griping about the GOM, sell the car, get a plug in hybrid or something else, and/or pay through the nose for gas. If a solution with keeping the Mach-E is in mind, again, reset trip odometer, drive to work on the coldest day, check miles to kwh, take that, multiply times 88, see if that number is higher than your total round trip distance. If it isn't, either find some way to charge at work or during your journey, or get rid of the car, simple.
 

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Oh, is it 120 miles one way or 120 miles round trip?

If one way I agree the MME won't make that at highway speeds. At 60 mph probably in the summer, but nobody should be driving that slow on the interstate. And you definitely need a 48 Amp charger.

If it is one way you have to charge while at work or do a DCFC on the way home. I have a 140 mile one way commute but I stay over night and charge while there.
 

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Seems like a nonsensical response. I got exactly what he's claiming that you can't get. My car, a GTPE, gets the WORST mileage of any of the extended-range Mach-Es. So, what must be done, is to ignore him. A lot of people are incredibly resistant to change. Note how just about everyone with an EV, when asked, says "I'll NEVER go back to ICE cars"? Evolve or die...
Not sure who you are calling nonsensical. Regardless, my Mach E GT absolutely WILL NOT go 250-270 miles at 75-80 mph. It might do 220, if you really sweated it. I would be comfortable with 175 or so. It WILL do approaching 250 (based on usage measurements) if you are at speeds closer to say 55, but I never run the battery that low.
 
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The 240v wire plug may not be all the way into the Ford mobile charger. Bang it in with the palm of your hand. Is your charger mounted on the wall, or hanging?
It's mounted on wall.
 
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Below is what i did from tech support.

Click on the vehicle icon in the top left corner of the center touchscreen> select settings> select vehicle > Select EV driving History reset.

It instantly improved my range from 200-212 miles estimate to 240-250 miles estimate.

If it's a software reset, why isn't automatically done?
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