Frunk Tub Removed [Pics]

[HuntingPudel]

Does it come with the cable to connect to the LVB? if not, what guage cable is recommended?

No cable, this is just the access point. The gauge of cable you want to use is dependent on how much peak amperage you will be pushing through. An ICE with a big, high-compression engine is going to need a lot bigger cable than an EV. Since we’re running approximately 40A @12V- while running FDRS, I chose 10AWG copper and a 50A fuse, with all terminations and splices double-crimped. The lugs on the back of the access point are large enough to accept any size battery cable.

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[krazieboy]

No cable, this is just the access point. The gauge of cable you want to use is dependent on how much peak amperage you will be pushing through. An ICE with a big, high-compression engine is going to need a lot bigger cable than an EV. Since we’re running approximately 40A @12V- while running FDRS, I chose 10AWG copper and a 50A fuse, with all terminations and splices double-crimped. The lugs on the back of the access point are large enough to accept any size battery cable.

Thanks! Thinking of doing this as a future mod. I love the clean look.

 

[JoeBeach]

How did you attach to the positive cable in the Mach-E? It has a strange bevel shape.

 

[HuntingPudel]

Positive cable is attached directly to the middle stud on the positive battery terminal.

The negative cable is attached to one of the chassis ground points on the left strut tower, way down low. Kind of hard to get to.

 

[HuntingPudel]

During another frunk removal to replace the jump point that I broke, I noticed after a couple of FDRS sessions the quick-disconnect was getting fried. So I got a forklift charging terminal to use as a QD under the jump point. Both have the same 50A rating, but obviously the QD doesn’t meet spec. The forklift terminal looks obviously able to handle müy calienté juice, so I am optimistic that it will hold up better. Forklift terminal on top, old QD below in the photo

And I added some reflective orange tape to the underside of the lid to prevent screwing it up again:

 

[Mike G]

Wiring rough-ins done. ??

Used heat shrink tubing at intervals to keep the red and black wires together. ??

Quick disconnect roughed-in under the mounting hole for the access point so that the access point can be removed or the beauty panel can be removed with the access point still screwed into the beauty panel. ??

And a quick mock-up of the access point with wiring installed. Access point is not fastened to car yet. Have to wait on the ABS reinforcements to dry on the threaded inserts (and dumb-dumb doggie here forgot what he did with the mounting screws). ??

Is that 10 gauge wire on that SAE connector?

 

[Mike G]

In my shopping, I found these as well, which if they fit height wise, would be a clean and simple installation as well, all for $20:



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1430

That's what I'm going with on the new car.

 

[HuntingPudel]

Is that 10 gauge wire on that SAE connector?

Yep.

 

[Mrtman]

No cable, this is just the access point. The gauge of cable you want to use is dependent on how much peak amperage you will be pushing through. An ICE with a big, high-compression engine is going to need a lot bigger cable than an EV. Since we’re running approximately 40A @12V- while running FDRS, I chose 10AWG copper and a 50A fuse, with all terminations and splices double-crimped. The lugs on the back of the access point are large enough to accept any size battery cable.

I'm doing this EZCB mod also.
Did connect the cables directly to +/- on battery?
Thank you

 

[JohnFoxeSheets]

I'm doing this EZCB mod also.
Did connect the cables directly to +/- on battery?
Thank you

Yes, for the positive, but not for the minus. You need tp pick that up from a ground on the vehicle, not directly from the battery. (If you connect to the - terminal on the battery, you'll be connecting before the BMS which will screw up the management of your battery.)

 

[HuntingPudel]

I'm doing this EZCB mod also.
Did connect the cables directly to +/- on battery?
Thank you

I used the +12V battery post and a grounding point in the left strut tower. Do not attach anything to the -12 V post since that will bypass the BMS sensor.

 

[Mrtman]

I used the +12V battery post and a grounding point in the left strut tower. Do not attach anything to the -12 V post since that will bypass the BMS sensor.

I also noticed you replaced the original QD with a forklift connector?

 

[HuntingPudel]

I also noticed you replaced the original QD with a forklift connector?

Yep, the supposedly 50A capable QD melted during a FDRS session. The forklift connector has better cooling and spaces the conductors further apart. It’s meant for the amperage and duration in the same way that an industrial outlet will work better for our EVSEs than a consumer-grade outlet.

 

[Mrtman]

Did you stick the 10awg wiring?

 

[HuntingPudel]

Did you stick the 10awg wiring?

Yes, I stayed with 10AWG since the highest draw I have seen doing FDRS updates is 43A.

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