Stop Safely Now (HVBJB): Mach-E Owners Biggest Fear - Facts and Info Thread

[AKgrampy]

Unless it's being overly sensitive and "bricking" cars that shouldn't be bricked. I'm not saying that's the case, but I flash everything almost the day it comes out. I haven't on this one. Maybe it's just a gut feeling I have.

I don't consider a car that won't turn on = to "being stranded". But to each their own.

I was about to enable OTA but I think I will hold off!

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[kennethjk]

I was about to enable OTA but I think I will hold off!

Doesn’t matter for me , OTA just don’t work

 

[DadzBoyz]

Theory:

It appears that the majority of the problems are 2-motor cars. Even further, GT/GTPE trims.
I don’t think we have the numbers, but I would guess that Ford has sold more 2-motor Selects and Premiums than GT/GTPE’s.

Ford will get to a point where they have to start replacing the HVBJBs systematically. They’ll have to build up a supply of replacement parts and likely start with a trim with a smaller total units sold but a higher failure rate. If they have sold fewer GT/GTPEs than Selects or Premiums, they’ll start notifying those owners, individually, that they can schedule an appointment to bring their cars in to have the part replaced. They probably will not make a public or published announcement that GT/GTPE owners can bring their cars in. It would piss off everyone else and people would assume it is because those are the more expensive cars, even though that is not the case.

Just a theory.

 

[MustThee?]

Well, looks like I jinxed myself somehow. My car just failed exactly as @scoopman

I did NO DCFC and never have. I drove it the 15 mile, 90% highway commute to work at 9am this morning and just drove home and service vehicle soon and the reduced power popped away shortly after the freeway. I did use power a few times to pass people on the freeway and once after I exited. The pop up happened shortly after I made a pass, which wasn’t pedal to the metal or from a stop. Was going about 30 and pumped to 40-45.

Not a hot day at all, mid to low 70s and the car was kept in a parking structure that was cool all day at work.

I went home and parked. Car turns back on and drives, for now, we will see in the morning. Tried a few dealers, all are lame and won’t get me in for a few WEEKS! Hoping Tuttle Click Ford in Irvine calls me back tomorrow and gets me in.

Oh sorry to hear this!

Definitely not something we should have to live with, a constant fear that it will break down.

Like others have already mentioned, this needs to get out more to the media to put more pressure on Ford. I just saw an article where they talked about how quickly Ford got the fix out and are back to releasing the held new cars but it didn’t say that the supposed fix is not really working.

 

[chrisGT]

If the new sw has false positives it is likely they will happen to cars with the new part as well.
I guess we will know more after scooman's return trip.

 

[mwtechy]

Isn't it possible the software is just detecting already damaged contactors which may shed light on the fact that the problem is larger than Ford currently believes which will force them to require a hardware recall? Or did Neil4Real also have a prior replacement of this part?

 

[mkhuffman]

Well, now I am leaning even more towards getting the software update. I want the new part and I want Ford to pay for it. If the only negative consequence is a false warning that makes Ford give me the new part when it isn't needed, then that works for me.

I will take it in to the dealership, they will say "it will take 2 weeks to get the part", I will say "no problem, give me my car back until the part arrives". And then I will reset the codes and drive the car normally until the part comes in. Easy, peasey, lemon squeezey.

Anyone see any holes in that approach? Todd?

 

[DevSecOps]

Well, now I am leaning even more towards getting the software update. I want the new part and I want Ford to pay for it. If the only negative consequence is a false warning that makes Ford give me the new part when it isn't needed, then that works for me.

I will take it in to the dealership, they will say "it will take 2 weeks to get the part", I will say "no problem, give me my car back until the part arrives". And then I will reset the codes and drive the car normally until the part comes in. Easy, peasey, lemon squeezey.

Anyone see any holes in that approach? Todd?

If it works for you then do it. I'm just being rebellious because I'm pissed that they didn't do a legit fix.

 

[mkhuffman]

If it works for you then do it. I'm just being rebellious because I'm pissed that they didn't do a legit fix.

I am just looking at it rationally. I will wait another week to see what others experience before deciding. But it is probably software update time.

 

[JohnFoxeSheets]

I am just looking at it rationally. I will wait another week to see what others experience before deciding. But it is probably software update time.

Having just gotten the update done today (in anticipation of a road trip next week that got canceled while I was at the dealership picking up my car), I'm with you Mike. I get where Todd is coming from, but not bricking the car is preferable to me, even if the s/w is too twitchy... (Especially since @Neil4Real was able to restart his car when he got it home today.)

 

[Progress]

Well, now I am leaning even more towards getting the software update. I want the new part and I want Ford to pay for it. If the only negative consequence is a false warning that makes Ford give me the new part when it isn't needed, then that works for me.

I will take it in to the dealership, they will say "it will take 2 weeks to get the part", I will say "no problem, give me my car back until the part arrives". And then I will reset the codes and drive the car normally until the part comes in. Easy, peasey, lemon squeezey.

Anyone see any holes in that approach? Todd?

I think getting the new software is win, win win.
If the contactor gets fried but the software allows one to drive the car enough to get to a dealer without being towed, that's a win.
If the software is glitchy and shows a contactor failure when there is not one, you have just gotten the updated part for free, a win.
If your contactor never fails you can be driving around with more peace of mind, a win.
Full disclosure, I brought my car in for the software update this morning and was out in less than 2 hours.

 

[scoopman]

I think getting the new software is win, win win.
If the contactor gets fried but the software allows one to drive the car enough to get to a dealer without being towed, that's a win.
If the software is glitchy and shows a contactor failure when there is not one, you have just gotten the updated part for free, a win.
If your contactor never fails you can be driving around with more peace of mind, a win.
Full disclosure, I brought my car in for the software update this morning and was out in less than 2 hours.

I agree with all of this, but it's wrong to call the recall software a "fix". I also don't know how long you can drive around on it before it needs to be replaced if the contactors are indeed damaged and if there are other potential risks of damaging other parts if you drive it for weeks as it appears dealers and Ford seem to be allowing through their lack of any instructions on what to do if a Mach E calls with A SVS.

If Ford was smart, they would be scheduling the replacement automatically when it fails, because it is clear they receive the telematics automatically in the cloud. Instead they are just acting like this ya dropped a valve on your 1976 LTD, and leaving it to the owner calling and getting random dealer responses and variances in part deliveries.

 

[ARK]

If the new sw has false positives it is likely they will happen to cars with the new part as well.
I guess we will know more after scooman's return trip.

Big oversight if they didn’t somehow program it to recognize whether a beefier version of the HVBJB is installed, let’s hope they did account for this.

 

[silverelan]

What’s the confidence level that the -C replacement part is actually more robust?

 

[scoopman]

What’s the confidence level that the -C replacement part is actually more robust?

Maybe the -B stands for more BEEFY and the -C stands for more CONFIDENT?

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