H&R Lowering Springs Released For Mach-E

[HuntingPudel]

@markboris you are one industrious dude. That ride height looks pretty nice. Too bad the rear springs need the spacer. ??

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[markboris]

I forgot to mention the handling. It’s again even more flat like when I added the Steeda sway bars. It compliments them nicely.

 

[mkhuffman]

I forgot to mention the handling. It’s again even more flat like when I added the Steeda sway bars. It compliments them nicely.

Now you have me thinking about doing this! I am really curious if the stock GT shocks will be a better match for these higher rate springs, maybe reducing some of the faster rebound. Or maybe it will be the opposite?

 

[Scooby24]

Now you have me thinking about doing this! I am really curious if the stock GT shocks will be a better match for these higher rate springs, maybe reducing some of the faster rebound. Or maybe it will be the opposite?

Probably a better match. To accommodate for higher rates you usually go softer compression and stiffer rebound but since, like you suggested, our rebound (IMO) is too high, not having adjusted for it with the stiffer rates should mean a slower more controlled rebound.

The unfortunate side effect would be a bit more of a harsh ride due to not having adjusted the compression a bit softer.

 

[mkhuffman]

Probably a better match. To accommodate for higher rates you usually go softer compression and stiffer rebound but since, like you suggested, our rebound (IMO) is too high, not having adjusted for it with the stiffer rates should mean a slower more controlled rebound.

The unfortunate side effect would be a bit more of a harsh ride due to not having adjusted the compression a bit softer.

And maybe less of a rebound because the spring is not compressing as much, so there is less travel during the rebound?

Are you considering trying them?

 

[jksu]

i think the stock suspension isn't bad- maybe a tad stiff/bouncy when new, but at around 20k it's settled down and i feel it's a good balance of comfort and performance .

sure cornering could be flatter, but i'm not sure i'm ready to give up the comfort and independent rear with a stiffer sway bar. i've gone that route and while the initial on/off ramp thrills are cool, the hit on day to day driving ride quality on LA's crappy roads, etc, makes it not as good a trade off for me.

plus handling has been dramatically improved just going to bigger/wider tires (245/45/20) so i'm pretty satisfied.

but i did love the h&r spring and bilstein shock combo to replace the worn suspension on my previous car (volvo c70 - a hardtop covertible, so heavy AF). went from wallowing cruiser to sports car. all this to say h&r makes quality springs that are appropriate for a car's weight which is important with our EV.

 

[slimothyjames]

How difficult was the install? I've installed coilovers on my other vehicles in the driveway before. Or did you have a shop do it?

 

[apailthorp]

Koni Yellows or Bilsteins are what I’d be waiting for.

+1
I can swap struts and still be "street" (stock) in the relevant SCCA autocross class (Super Street), hopefully soon... If I mess with springs or more than one bar, EV class, not as much fun.

 

[markboris]

How difficult was the install? I've installed coilovers on my other vehicles in the driveway before. Or did you have a shop do it?

I don't consider it difficult since I've been replacing springs for years and more recently on my Escape, Focus RS, and GT500. On the Mach-E alone I've replaced several sets on my Premium and a couple on the GT. I have a lift in my garage plus a spring compressor and pneumatic air tools so I'm kind of set there. The hard part is getting up and down with my age and hip/knee issues. ?

For me, the fronts are easier even though they take longer because I do the entire job standing up. You have to remove the trim cover panels in the frunk and the strut tower brace then the three bolts holding the upper strut mount At the strut itself there are several bolts to remove from the strut, sway bar, etc then you can remove the assembly. Change out the spring using a spring compressor then reinstall it back in the car and reverse procedure.

The rears only have two bolts to remove (lower control arm and lower shock) then the spring comes right out. However, reinstalling the lower control arm bolt into the the wheel knuckle can be a real PITA. Sometimes everything lines up and it's no issue but sometimes it can take me an hour just to get that bolt to line up. Also the rears have to be done while the car is close to the ground because you need to use a jack to raise and lower the suspension while removing and reinstalling the lower control are bolts to get them to line up. It's not as easy for me to be on my knees and sometimes having to lay down. Takes me about 90 minutes to do both fronts and if the rears cooperate, about 45-60 minutes but I've had it take me as long as 2 hours when I have issues with that rear lower control arm bolt.

 

[Scooby24]

And maybe less of a rebound because the spring is not compressing as much, so there is less travel during the rebound?

Are you considering trying them?

I'd suspect there's not that much difference in the actual amount of travel (which is why the bump stops needs to be cut)

I'm past my years of racing, coilovers and suspension mods personally. If I were to do it I'd be going with the KW coilovers so I could independently adjust compression and rebound to my liking.

 

[markboris]

Had a couple of members ask what the H&R's look like next to the stock GT springs so here you go. They both have the same amount of coils but shorter with a slightly higher spring rate. The front springs are the same thickness and weight. The rear springs are 2.5mm thicker and weigh 2 lbs more each. These are the only photos I took of the install (not really much to show).

Also included my alignment specs. I always adjust the camber on my cars to -1.5 front and -2.0 rear because this is where I like the way it handles and it's not too aggressive for the street, at least for me. Just so happens on the Mach-E, this is the far end of the acceptable negative camber so I'm happy about this. After I put another 1500 miles or so on the car, I'll have it checked again to make sure it's ok in case the springs settle anymore but I doubt they will.

 

[Volkz86]

@markboris thanks for sharing all this! Any thoughts on what would be the best lowering option for a RWD Standard Range?
I’m guessing now that none of the ER versions qualifies for a tax credit, many more SR will be on the road and the aftermarket manufacturers will be inclined to produce a proper spring soon?

Cheers,

 

[azerik]

Looks great! I appreciate your work and time.
While playing around in the rear I was able to pull the rear shock cover down, not sure if I can easily get to the rear bump stop but I still firmly believe if we can cut that bump stop we gain more shock travel. Even better if it can be cut still on the vehicle. (I don't want to fight the shocks but I think worst case is tire off, remove top mount, remove that cover thing cut the stop pop it all back together. If the spring companies are saying cut the stop there is stock shock travel to be had. On a bone stock prem cutting the stop could induce more roll as it's got remove to move. But if there are aftermarket bars/springs on the car there is room.

I really wish I had your roads over here. I might have kept my Porches

 

[markboris]

Looks great! I appreciate your work and time.
While playing around in the rear I was able to pull the rear shock cover down, not sure if I can easily get to the rear bump stop but I still firmly believe if we can cut that bump stop we gain more shock travel. Even better if it can be cut still on the vehicle. (I don't want to fight the shocks but I think worst case is tire off, remove top mount, remove that cover thing cut the stop pop it all back together. If the spring companies are saying cut the stop there is stock shock travel to be had. On a bone stock prem cutting the stop could induce more roll as it's got remove to move. But if there are aftermarket bars/springs on the car there is room.

I really wish I had your roads over here. I might have kept my Porches

Thing is, the bump stop is some what permanently attached to the inside of the black plastic shock rod cover. You have to make a cut in that cover from top to bottom to split it open to access the bump stop. In that case, you don't really need to remove the shock from the car. Once you remove the tube cover, you can cut the bump stop then you have to replace the tube cover back over the bump stop and figure a way to hold it on there. Plastic wire ties worked for me but you just cannot use them at the very top as there is little room for that plastic cover to go up inside the top shock mount as it is. This may sound confusing as I'm to always good at explaining things but it's actually quite easy to do.

 

[azerik]

I know exactly what you're saying. I noticed the boot thing pushes up inside the mount at the top. If you're using the Steeda mounts I could see it being different. I'm going to try to attack this Sunday. I'm also going to mark the shock and try to gauge actual travel. (I drew it up but will stop with the highjack, will report back on this)

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