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Mach-Lee

Mach-Lee

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Regarding "Charging paused", it would usually say "Plugged in not charging". I changed that this morning to see if it could be the solution. Now instead of the *vehicle* having the charge schedule I set it to "charge whenever plugged in" and have the Chargepoint dictate when it charges on the schedule.
Perhaps that will stop the EVSE from pinging for charging data while it's plugged in since it has more inherent information about the session.
The difference between those two is whether or not the control pilot is switched off. Ideally the pilot should stay on and the car should say "Charging paused" the whole time it's plugged in. If it says "Plugged in not charging" the EVSE may no longer be operating in a J1772 compliant mode which could cause issues. So I would reach out to ChargePoint support about that as well.
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The difference between those two is whether or not the control pilot is switched off. Ideally the pilot should stay on and the car should say "Charging paused" the whole time it's plugged in. If it says "Plugged in not charging" the EVSE may no longer be operating in a J1772 compliant mode which could cause issues. So I would reach out to ChargePoint support about that as well.
Appreciate the info. I'll take a look at that when I have it charging later.

I left the car running for about 45 minutes and the LVB went from 56% to 95%. Will see what happens when I plug in the Chargepoint.
 

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Does the 12V battery charge when the car has been remote started via the app but before physical start button is pressed? Also, not plugged in to charge. I’ve been warming up the cabin this way in the mornings. Wondering if it’s helpful for the 12V. Thanks.
 
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Does the 12V battery charge when the car has been remote started via the app but before physical start button is pressed? Also, not plugged in to charge. I’ve been warming up the cabin this way in the mornings. Wondering if it’s helpful for the 12V. Thanks.
Yes, but remote start only lasts 15 minutes so it's of limited use. You really want the car on for at least 30 minutes continuously to be helpful.
 

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Very helpful thread! I hope this helps with some stuck OTA issues I am having... gotta be sure that the 12V is above 70%, for example. Although, I am having a touch time getting it to 70 or above so now I am wondering if it just degraded, as you have described. Will have to get it checked soon I suppose.
 


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Thank you! Anyone have a part # or link to which battery to replace with?
 

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Very helpful thread! I hope this helps with some stuck OTA issues I am having... gotta be sure that the 12V is above 70%, for example. Although, I am having a touch time getting it to 70 or above so now I am wondering if it just degraded, as you have described. Will have to get it checked soon I suppose.
Do you drive frequently for twenty minutes or so? My 23.5 the 12v consistently stays 85-95% SOC. I do notice if I have only been doing short trips it will drop to 80-82%. I do think that the parameters were changed in later cars for topping up the 12v.
 

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Do you drive frequently for twenty minutes or so? My 23.5 the 12v consistently stays 85-95% SOC. I do notice if I have only been doing short trips it will drop to 80-82%. I do think that the parameters were changed in later cars for topping up the 12v.
A lot of my drives are shorter, like even in the 10 min range. I’ve noticed that when I check Via the web log in the 12v battery is often in the 38-50% range. If I let the car sit in the drive way on then maybe it will get to 60%+ after a few hours. Seems like it should be more like what you described though.
 

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Mach-Lee, you indicated that the doors have backup power so they can be opened with two presses if the 12V battery dies, assuming the car was unlocked before the battery died. Does that also apply to the liftgate?
 

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A lot of my drives are shorter, like even in the 10 min range. I’ve noticed that when I check Via the web log in the 12v battery is often in the 38-50% range. If I let the car sit in the drive way on then maybe it will get to 60%+ after a few hours. Seems like it should be more like what you described though.
I know the topping up curve changed some time on 23s as I recall, but that seems inordinantly low for a SOC on the 12v. I know for some OTAs they want at least 80% SOC. This might be something to consider talking to the dealer about.
 
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Mach-Lee, you indicated that the doors have backup power so they can be opened with two presses if the 12V battery dies, assuming the car was unlocked before the battery died. Does that also apply to the liftgate?
Doors yes, liftgate no.
 

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I know the topping up curve changed some time on 23s as I recall, but that seems inordinantly low for a SOC on the 12v. I know for some OTAs they want at least 80% SOC. This might be something to consider talking to the dealer about.
It’s in the shop right now and they are looking at it…. Having their own issues getting the stuck OTA to install and it kicked some other error message to them. So, we will see what the resolution is!
 

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Sounds like there is a known issue/bug in some ‘21s when installing updates. If one of the modules is out of sync with software versions then the entire update gets hung up/stuck. So, they had to manually update certain modules to certain versions to get the overall update to install. Also, the 12v battery was weak and they replaced that under warrantee. All is good now though it seems.
 

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If the vehicle can physically accept a larger H4 battery, I'm surprised someone hasn't found a forscan setting to make the change in vehicle configuration yet.

I've done that for both my F150 and Escape.
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