Gloff

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Nice color! (I have a 2023 Rapid Red premier). I also wash my vehicle at home using a corded electric power washer. One thing I noticed is the rotors always rust the next day after washing or if it rains. I usually put it in neutral and do a hard brake to remove the rust. I would recommend getting Powerstop drilled and slotted brakes and rotors. I put these on my 2000 Honda Insight 2 years ago and drive in the winter of NE Ohio and there is no rust. I also replaced all the rotors and brakes on the wife's 2017 Jeep Trailhawk last September and there is no rust. Get the drilled and slotted because it's a different alloy than the regular Powerstop rotors. I had the regular ones on my 2014 Chevy Volt and they did rust, not as bad as most rotors however.
Rust is typical for OEM rotors. For normal cars, the rotor is made of cast iron and will rust relatively quickly. This is not an issue as you will use the brakes and the rust will come off in fairly short order. Unless you're not coming to a complete stop, or you're coasting to a stop, you will use the physical brakes every drive.

Drilled and slotted rotors don't add any value for street cars. The flat face rotors are perfectly fine. Sounds like the OP has some bad pad luck. Ford actually removed the drilled setup on 2019+ GT350s because they're unnecessary.
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Fremont Kid

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My Mach-E just rolled over 100k a few days ago and thought I would share my experience so far.

First, the only money I've spend on maintenance is $1400 for a set of new tires. As you can see, the car still looks almost brand new. The only wear and tear I've noticed is paint chipping from the steering wheel buttons, cracks in the transmision select wheel, and minor cracks on the driver's seat upholstry. All car washing has been done at home, no outside car washing.

The only issue I've had to deal with since the beginning is the pulsating break issue that was outlined in a TSB. I had the rotors resurfaced and replaced and the pads replaced a few times, under warantee, with no resolution thus far, so I will be replacing the pads with aftermarket ones that will hopefully solve the issue.

Car Scanner reports that the HVB is at 92% capacity and my original LVB is still running at 48% capacity. I'm planning on replacing that before the end of the year.

Charging is estimated to be 90% of the time at 90% state of charge at LV2 at home. Road trips are few and far between, maybe twice a year where LV3 DC charging is necessary.

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I have the same light color interior seats. Are the small cracks on the drivers seat? How are the other seats holding up? I'm assuming they are used less frequently than the drivers seat.
 
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DanCoon

DanCoon

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I have the same light color interior seats. Are the small cracks on the drivers seat? How are the other seats holding up? I'm assuming they are used less frequently than the drivers seat.
Yes, only cracks on the driver's seat, and far less than my previous car at 100k miles.
 

67 Stang Convertible

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My Mach-E just rolled over 100k a few days ago and thought I would share my experience so far.

First, the only money I've spend on maintenance is $1400 for a set of new tires. As you can see, the car still looks almost brand new. The only wear and tear I've noticed is paint chipping from the steering wheel buttons, cracks in the transmision select wheel, and minor cracks on the driver's seat upholstry. All car washing has been done at home, no outside car washing.

The only issue I've had to deal with since the beginning is the pulsating break issue that was outlined in a TSB. I had the rotors resurfaced and replaced and the pads replaced a few times, under warantee, with no resolution thus far, so I will be replacing the pads with aftermarket ones that will hopefully solve the issue.

Car Scanner reports that the HVB is at 92% capacity and my original LVB is still running at 48% capacity. I'm planning on replacing that before the end of the year.

Charging is estimated to be 90% of the time at 90% state of charge at LV2 at home. Road trips are few and far between, maybe twice a year where LV3 DC charging is necessary.

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I assume you have a 2021? That's a lot of miles in 3 years!!! Glad she looks good. My 2021, looks great as well. I have PPF on front and only hand wash for 3 years. Just make it part of my usual weekend routine.

What are your thoughts? Replacement or just keep on Keeping on in the Mach-E?
 
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DanCoon

DanCoon

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I assume you have a 2021? That's a lot of miles in 3 years!!! Glad she looks good. My 2021, looks great as well. I have PPF on front and only hand wash for 3 years. Just make it part of my usual weekend routine.

What are your thoughts? Replacement or just keep on Keeping on in the Mach-E?
I usually keep my cars for 7 or 8 years before replacement. I have a long daily commute, plus, occasional road trips which is why my miles are so high. And, yes it is 2021. As long as my car looks and runs great I'm not looking to replace. My last car still looked like it rolled off the dealer lot when I turned it in, but being ICE is ran really bad considering it had almost 200k on it.
 


Teslaeata

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Just clocked up 95k today.

39mths old.

Been great car, dealer’s good, their EV master tech is ace.

A set and a half of new tyres fitted after OE set wore out, current set approx half worn.

Had a windscreen due to a rock flying at it over Spaghetti Junction.

Rear hub bearings (noisy) changed under warranty.

HVJB contactor swapped under the recall.

One rear door catch faulted during recent HVJB swap & reprogramming.

Can’t think of much else that went wrong which is car or Ford’s fault.

Just paid to have transmission fluid & coolant changed early during last service as car may not see dealer again until c150,000 miles as UK service intervals is 2yrs unlimited mileage!

Or it probably will see dealer, actually, for servicing in a year at 125,000 miles as I can’t allow it to go so long without some servicing.

It works hard, carries c500kg of tools for nearly all its mileage so is up around full permissible weight 90% of the time.

Used approx 38,500kWh charge power, around 8,500kWh on DCFC.

Saved me c£6,000 in fuel over the very best possible ICE hybrid, loaded & used as its.

Never have problem getting a charge, infrastructure’s amazing in UK.

Averaging around 2.9 mls/kWh fully loaded and with e-heat & A/con on all time, cruising speeds around 70mph.

Tyres set to 37psi front and 49psi rears.

4-wheel alignment checked around 3 times per year.

Rear camber angles adjusted to maximum limit towards the positive to compensate for loading.

HVB SoC 92.5% last time I checked at around 93,000 miles.

Not a clue what LVB’s doing, can’t get excited about, too cheap to worry about.

All in all a good motoring experience.
 

Guss-E 2021

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Man do service departments not want to hear this ?. If you are in the tire and brake business, BEVs won't be an issue for you.

Oh hey, I thought the electric motor oil needs to be checked at around 100K? Thought I read that somewhere in the forum.
 

Doug&Julie

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Man...it's going to take us forever to get to 100k miles. We put about 7500 miles on our Monkey per year (we work from home). But good to know she'll last!
 

lwilliams0514

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My Mach-E just rolled over 100k a few days ago and thought I would share my experience so far.

First, the only money I've spend on maintenance is $1400 for a set of new tires. As you can see, the car still looks almost brand new. The only wear and tear I've noticed is paint chipping from the steering wheel buttons, cracks in the transmision select wheel, and minor cracks on the driver's seat upholstry. All car washing has been done at home, no outside car washing.

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I had the chipping on the buttons on the steering wheel since the first 3 months I had my Mach E. Service said there was nothing they could do. SMH.
 
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DanCoon

DanCoon

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I had the chipping on the buttons on the steering wheel since the first 3 months I had my Mach E. Service said there was nothing they could do. SMH.
Yes, mine started about that time also. I'm thinking about just painting it solid black to help improve the way it looks.
 

lwilliams0514

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Yes, mine started about that time also. I'm thinking about just painting it solid black to help improve the way it looks.
Your solution sounds better than the one I am considering. Mine involves a sharpie lol
 

Teslaeata

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Man do service departments not want to hear this ?. If you are in the tire and brake business, BEVs won't be an issue for you.

Oh hey, I thought the electric motor oil needs to be checked at around 100K? Thought I read that somewhere in the forum.
Ah, yes, you’re right, may have changed the fluids early.

Wanted to have the transmission fluid analysed anyways to help decide if Stangy’s a keeper, and while battery was out I thought, what the hell for the coolant!

It’s only money, I’m 63, be dead soon? the kids’ll only spend it on Apple crap or worse a Tesla or some other tasteless shite when I’ve gone, and on that cheerful note………..
 

Deleted member 19354

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My Mach-E just rolled over 100k a few days ago and thought I would share my experience so far.

First, the only money I've spend on maintenance is $1400 for a set of new tires. As you can see, the car still looks almost brand new. The only wear and tear I've noticed is paint chipping from the steering wheel buttons, cracks in the transmision select wheel, and minor cracks on the driver's seat upholstry. All car washing has been done at home, no outside car washing.

The only issue I've had to deal with since the beginning is the pulsating break issue that was outlined in a TSB. I had the rotors resurfaced and replaced and the pads replaced a few times, under warantee, with no resolution thus far, so I will be replacing the pads with aftermarket ones that will hopefully solve the issue.

Car Scanner reports that the HVB is at 92% capacity and my original LVB is still running at 48% capacity. I'm planning on replacing that before the end of the year.

Charging is estimated to be 90% of the time at 90% state of charge at LV2 at home. Road trips are few and far between, maybe twice a year where LV3 DC charging is necessary.

20240908_152745.jpg


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20240908_152858.jpg


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Congratulations!
 

jgcom

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My steering wheel button markings are wearing down the same way as yours, and the same way my previous car (Lincoln) did. I have been blaming my thumbs.
 

kennethjk

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Ah, yes, you’re right, may have changed the fluids early.

Wanted to have the transmission fluid analysed anyways to help decide if Stangy’s a keeper, and while battery was out I thought, what the hell for the coolant!

It’s only money, I’m 63, be dead soon? the kids’ll only spend it on Apple crap or worse a Tesla or some other tasteless shite when I’ve gone, and on that cheerful note………..
You know the old saying

if you don’t go first class your kids will!!
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