Adding a real subwoofer w/amp to your Mach-E

[Dadstoyy]

@markboris i continue to read the updates on this thread. I used it to install my LC21pro, epicenter and LC1-800 with a JL 10" sub. It has worked flawless since October. Having said that. With the issues of volume above 14 I have decided to pull everything out. I have now replaced all the speakers. I am using audio control 6,5" components upfront. Put the 1" tweeters in the factory mounts in the sound bar. (Took a bit of modification) and rear doors are the audio control 6.5" coaxial. Now comes I guess my question. The new amplification set up is a audio control D.6-1200 and the LC.1-800. I assume I just tap all the wires from the back B&O amp and run them in to my audio control DSP. From there I assume I so have to run a new set of output wires to the front of the car for the sound bar as I think from the B&O you only have front left and right and rear left and right then the split happens in the front and the tweeters are just capped. I will also run the sub out from the B&O and into the D6-1200. With all the signals into the audio control DSP I can then correct all the sound signals to a flat response. Unless I missed it. I thought all the wire diagrams were for the non premium systems. Is there a diagram for what comes our of the premium 10 speaker B&O amp/dsp in the back. On a side note I am running 4g wire from the front battery and will use GTO as my remote turn on. I am not quiet sure if I will install the epicenter as that does something different than the acubass. Any insight would be appreciated

Cheers

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[markboris]

@markboris i continue to read the updates on this thread. I used it to install my LC21pro, epicenter and LC1-800 with a JL 10" sub. It has worked flawless since October. Having said that. With the issues of volume above 14 I have decided to pull everything out. I have now replaced all the speakers. I am using audio control 6,5" components upfront. Put the 1" tweeters in the factory mounts in the sound bar. (Took a bit of modification) and rear doors are the audio control 6.5" coaxial. Now comes I guess my question. The new amplification set up is a audio control D.6-1200 and the LC.1-800. I assume I just tap all the wires from the back B&O amp and run them in to my audio control DSP. From there I assume I so have to run a new set of output wires to the front of the car for the sound bar as I think from the B&O you only have front left and right and rear left and right then the split happens in the front and the tweeters are just capped. I will also run the sub out from the B&O and into the D6-1200. With all the signals into the audio control DSP I can then correct all the sound signals to a flat response. Unless I missed it. I thought all the wire diagrams were for the non premium systems. Is there a diagram for what comes our of the premium 10 speaker B&O amp/dsp in the back. On a side note I am running 4g wire from the front battery and will use GTO as my remote turn on. I am not quiet sure if I will install the epicenter as that does something different than the acubass. Any insight would be appreciated

Cheers

Hey Steve, yes you will tap off the wires coming from the B&O amp and run them into the AC DSP. You are also correct that the B&O amp does not supply the audio signal to the tweeters in the sound bar so you do need to run new wires to those.

If you don't want the bass to start attenuating above 14 on the volume, I would not use the sub audio signal that comes from the B&O amp. Maybe you can pick up your sub input from the front L&R speakers? That is what I did and ran it into the Kicker KEYLOC to restore the deep bass that is rolled off at the front speakers then ran that into my amp. However, since you are going with a more powerful amp anyway, you can bring up the input level on your amp to where approaching 14 will be loud and not have to worry about the bass attenuating. I would not install the epicenter. I think you will be happy with the bass and if not and want to tweak with it more, you can always install it later.

I have posted somewhere in this thread wiring diagrams for both B&O and non-B&O systems. I will post the 10 speaker B&O system again below.

 

[Dadstoyy]

Hey Steve, yes you will tap off the wires coming from the B&O amp and run them into the AC DSP. You are also correct that the B&O amp does not supply the audio signal to the tweeters in the sound bar so you do need to run new wires to those.

If you don't want the bass to start attenuating above 14 on the volume, I would not use the sub audio signal that comes from the B&O amp. Maybe you can pick up your sub input from the front L&R speakers? That is what I did and ran it into the Kicker KEYLOC to restore the deep bass that is rolled off at the front speakers then ran that into my amp. However, since you are going with a more powerful amp anyway, you can bring up the input level on your amp to where approaching 14 will be loud and not have to worry about the bass attenuating. I would not install the epicenter. I think you will be happy with the bass and if not and want to tweak with it more, you can always install it later.

I have posted somewhere in this thread wiring diagrams for both B&O and non-B&O systems. I will post the 10 speaker B&O system again below.

Appreciate the insight @markboris. I am just in the middle of making all the connections look professional. Lol I wish I had reread this tread a couple of weeks ago. Would have saved me some money as I bought about 150' of 14g speaker wire thinking I would have to run all 6 channels from the front not realizing the amp was in the back ? I think the most excited thing I am looking forward to is connecting the laptop and being able to set all the frequencies to each speaker along with the time delay. As well the AC speakers are designed perfectly for the D6-1200. And AC gives you all the settings to use for each one

 

[Hazmat91180]

Hey @markboris

Given what you know now about the bass roll off and fixing with a kicker key loc, would you suggest the 12" is still necessary or do you think a 10" with the keyloc would be very very close? I know the roll off is the issue but was curious if that also caused the 10 to not be as effective as possible.

Thanks I am excited to do this!

 

[markboris]

Hey @markboris

Given what you know now about the bass roll off and fixing with a kicker key loc, would you suggest the 12" is still necessary or do you think a 10" with the keyloc would be very very close? I know the roll off is the issue but was curious if that also caused the 10 to not be as effective as possible.

Thanks I am excited to do this!

Neither the 10 or the 12 is effective with the roll off BUT install either on and listen to it first. It’s a massive improvement even without the Keyloc and also depends on if you want that rear cargo floor to be in the lower position or not. If you really need to use it in that lower position then get the 10 otherwise get the 12” and the floor has to be in the higher position. No matter what, either one is way more than enough for the B&O system.

 

[Hazmat91180]

Neither the 10 or the 12 is effective with the roll off BUT install either on and listen to it first. It’s a massive improvement even without the Keyloc and also depends on if you want that rear cargo floor to be in the lower position or not. If you really need to use it in that lower position then get the 10 otherwise get the 12” and the floor has to be in the higher position. No matter what, either one is way more than enough for the B&O system.

Appreciate it! I think I’ll just do the keyloc right away as I don’t really want to tear into this twice.

 

[Hazmat91180]

sorry @markboris one last question; what is your preferred splicing method for this project? positaps or... something else?

 

[HuntingPudel]

sorry @markboris one last question; what is your preferred splicing method for this project? positaps or... something else?

Just say “No” to positaps. Either create a Y harness or follow correct splicing procedures. ??

 

[markboris]

sorry @markboris one last question; what is your preferred splicing method for this project? positaps or... something else?

I use Butt connectors and high quality crimping pliers designed for Butt connectors. Been using them for 50+ years.

 

[MrLoganRoss]

Not on point, but I can’t express the benefit of using Clark transducers under the seats in place of or to supplement the sub. Feel everything from 15hz to 500 if you want without rattling the car to death. Perfectly anrticulate. No DSPing. All in the size of two salad plates face to face. There is no one who gets in my MachE that is not in awe. From rock, to jazz, to classical, to country, to (old school) hip hop, to talk radio. It all reaps the benefits.

 

[Hazmat91180]

I guess I did have one more question for those that have gone "all the way" and done a full DSP/Aftermarket amplifier installation, when using a product like PAC AmpPro AP4-FD31, do we need to get to the back of the dash anywhere, or is this all truly done at the amplifier in the rear right? the instructions were not clear to me.

 

[scharebear]

Hello,
I have some questions and request for opinions:
1. Any step by step threads on the sound deadening procedure? I have searched and see some pieces here and there...looking to do rear hatch area, doors and possible under rear seats if not too difficult
2. Should I replace the door speakers? I could just do the sound deadening and the rear amp and then see how it sounds, but if I have the doors apart should I just go ahead and replace them? I have ordered JLA C2-650x. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136C2650X/JL-Audio-C2-650X.html?tp=105
3. If I do the door speakers should I then do the whole amp replacement? I think I can do 1. and 2. easily with my skillset. This last one would be a lot for me...Can I just "piggy back" an amp to keep it simpler? @markboris did this I believe. Is that viable long term option?

 

[markboris]

Hello,
I have some questions and request for opinions:
1. Any step by step threads on the sound deadening procedure? I have searched and see some pieces here and there...looking to do rear hatch area, doors and possible under rear seats if not too difficult
2. Should I replace the door speakers? I could just do the sound deadening and the rear amp and then see how it sounds, but if I have the doors apart should I just go ahead and replace them? I have ordered JLA C2-650x. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136C2650X/JL-Audio-C2-650X.html?tp=105
3. If I do the door speakers should I then do the whole amp replacement? I think I can do 1. and 2. easily with my skillset. This last one would be a lot for me...Can I just "piggy back" an amp to keep it simpler? @markboris did this I believe. Is that viable long term option?

I am not sure if there are any step by step threads here on sound deadening. I have done this on pretty much every vehicle I have owned in the last 25 years. I've done it on three Mach'E's and actually doing another one in two weekends. I do it for the benefit of making the door speakers (audio) sound better (tighter bass, less echo) not for quieting the car which it only marginally does.

As far as the doors go, remove the door panels and have at it. You do have to take out the speaker to get your hands inside the door and I remove the lower part of the window regulator (I don't remove it entirely but some here have). As far as the hatch area, very simple. Just pull up all the carpeting and line the entire floor back there. No need to add any to the rear quarter panels. I did it on one Mach-E then not on another and could. not tell any difference in sound or less road noise. There is already quite a bit of sound deadening material back there from the factory. I would NOT do anything under the seats or on the floor. The entire floor is already lined with sound deadening plus you don't get any road noise from the floor since there is a huge battery under it.

If you want to replace the door speakers, go ahead but I didn't. After deadening the doors and adding an amp, they came alive and been happy with it. Sure would sound better but it is not that hard to remove the door panels if you want to replace them later and the B&O amp is equalized for the factory speakers. Any others you install you will have to deal with changing the EQ to flat using FORScan and then running other equipment to EQ the new speakers.

 

[Jayg84]

Just finished mine with the JL10TW1. Sounds really great! Found a slightly used one on creative audios site and then 20% off on the weekend. Came out to around $280. Wired it using the 12v cigarette lighter, blew the fuse, switched it with the other cigarette lighters fuse. Recommend buying t clips as they don't leave you much wire to spice into.

If you are worried about hacking up 12v wires i found a good alternative. Wish I had found it before I did mine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CXSYX9F..._csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWw&th=1

 

[Hazmat91180]

I just finished mine up, do yourself a favor go slow, understand how all the rear panels come out and remove them completely. At that time, you’ll have plenty of space to work and the sound material goes down very easy in the rear trunk.

I too, will eventually be adding an aftermarket amp for the speakers, however, I cannot figure out how I wanna wire it so that it’s clean. I kind of just want to go post b&o amp like @markboris did, but still wrapping my head around the how. I ran 4ga to the rear initially just in case I decided to go all out (DSP ETC). With the bass where it is now, I don’t think I’ll be going much more.

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