Hey Michael, what questions do you have about adding an amp after the B&O amp?
I saw the pictures but I think you had them all taped up at that point. I assume splice in speakers from the OUT of B&O (originally going to speakers) into external amp IN and then external amp OUT to the Speakers spliced back in.
You are correct. That is exactly how I wired it except my external amp uses RCA's for outputs so had to buy adapters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NWNL63V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Not sure if you ever got your answer. But I will say I tried the tapping into the speaker wires the first time around and I had nothing but issues. I ended up ripping everything I did out. And pulled out the factory B&O amp. From there I put the PAC Amp pro in and ran 6 rca’s out. 4 to my 4 channel and 2 to my sub amp. I only ran speaker wires to the front tweeters separately as I did not want to go behind the dash just for that wire harness. Everything else is in the back. I now have a 12” sub in the back of the mach e that can handle 3000 watts. I have all new speakers in the doors and front dash and running an audio control LC-4.800and an Audio control LC-1.800 plus an audio control epicentre. I am in love with my system now and there is zero distortion even when I am up in the 20’s on the dial volume. Go the PAC amp pro route. You won’t regret it and no cutting of wires
To maybe answer part of your question. If you tapped into the green wire of the sub you are limited by the factory B&O system and their EQ settings. I started my journey with my GTPE doing exactly what you did. From that I found it wasn’t a quality sound that I was looking for. Very muddy bass. I was using the JL 10” sub. After I went to a DSP by Audio control and again while I was able to have some adjustments something still wasn’t right. Plus occasionally I would lose signal. There are many YouTube videos on the issues with tapping into the ford B&O amps and how the sound is not good or makes speakers crackle. If you want to do it the best way you need to use the PAC audio Amp Pro AP4-FD31. Then pull out the factory B&O system and plug the harness into the Amp Pro. From there out to an amp then back into your speakers. There is no cutting of wires involved. All plug and play. What I can tell you is that now that I have done that over what you did (as I had done the same ). It’s a night and day difference and you now have a full range of sound with no distortion.Thank you MarkBoris for the great writeup and all the other contributors. The writeup(s) made the job much simpler than expected. I installed the JL Audio ACP110LG-TW1, ported 10 inch sub using the Crutchfield CK8 Amp Wiring Kit, the Remote bass control, Bojo Trim Panel Tools, and sound deadening. Running the 8 gauge wire and remote bass control under the drivers side floor boards was really easy as I just lightly bent up the plastic and tucked everything under! I was able to cut the wires to the OEM bass after the green connector. This allowed me to solider my speaker level input harness with extension wires directly to the green connector and plug it in! I grounded to the tie down bolt near the speaker ground, after verifying that it was a well grounded location. The ported bass is awesome and very boomy! I rarely crank it all the way up, but when I do, the rear hatch window shakes like it is going to shatter! yikes! And the fit is perfect!
Three minor thoughts - The sub occasionally misses the first big thump of the track. It is a bummer on certain songs. I don't know if it is the REM turn on with power, the crossover, or the way I wired the speak level inputs (which I think I did incorrectly!). Secondly, the the remote bass control seems to have much less control than expected. The movement between soft and big bass is very slight. The last minor critique is that I would rather be able to control the bass independently from the fader, which did adjust the OEM sub. My rear seat occupants would too!
On my '66 Falcon Futura, I installed an 8" sealed bass (Retrosound) using RCA inputs, a power on line and a remote bass control. With this setup, there seems to be a lot more bass control, no missed beats, and independent variability. The crisp clear bass of a sealed bass is certainly very nice for jazz and many songs, but I was missing that boomy bass, which is why I went with a ported sub on this installation.
It would be cool to hear the 12 inch JL sealed a some point, just to compare, but overall I am very happy with the ported sub!
I would be curious if anyone has had my minor issues and if you solved them.
I have added the 10 inch JL powered sub and it definitely is an improvement but still lacking. I was thinking of adding/splicing amp "piggyback" style after B&O amp and before speakers like @markboris did but am now thinking of using the PAC Amp Pro as it is "plug and play". How plug and play is it? I know you said no wires need cutting but does that mean no wires need to be connected to amp by butt connectors either? I have looked at the manual for the Amp Pro but I still can't really visualize how all of the connections work?
It's very plug and play you remove the factory B&O and then plug the plugs into the Amp Pro. Then it's RCA from that to the Amp or optical to amp. Then from amp speaker wires to the Amp Pro speaker wires. And then that's it. It comes with all the harnesses
I also recently finished my install of the 10 inch sealed version.Thank you MarkBoris for the great writeup and all the other contributors. The writeup(s) made the job much simpler than expected. I installed the JL Audio ACP110LG-TW1, ported 10 inch sub using the Crutchfield CK8 Amp Wiring Kit, the Remote bass control, Bojo Trim Panel Tools, and sound deadening. Running the 8 gauge wire and remote bass control under the drivers side floor boards was really easy as I just lightly bent up the plastic and tucked everything under! I was able to cut the wires to the OEM bass after the green connector. This allowed me to solider my speaker level input harness with extension wires directly to the green connector and plug it in! I grounded to the tie down bolt near the speaker ground, after verifying that it was a well grounded location. The ported bass is awesome and very boomy! I rarely crank it all the way up, but when I do, the rear hatch window shakes like it is going to shatter! yikes! And the fit is perfect!
Three minor thoughts - The sub occasionally misses the first big thump of the track. It is a bummer on certain songs. I don't know if it is the REM turn on with power, the crossover, or the way I wired the speak level inputs (which I think I did incorrectly!). Secondly, the the remote bass control seems to have much less control than expected. The movement between soft and big bass is very slight. The last minor critique is that I would rather be able to control the bass independently from the fader, which did adjust the OEM sub. My rear seat occupants would too!
On my '66 Falcon Futura, I installed an 8" sealed bass (Retrosound) using RCA inputs, a power on line and a remote bass control. With this setup, there seems to be a lot more bass control, no missed beats, and independent variability. The crisp clear bass of a sealed bass is certainly very nice for jazz and many songs, but I was missing that boomy bass, which is why I went with a ported sub on this installation.
It would be cool to hear the 12 inch JL sealed a some point, just to compare, but overall I am very happy with the ported sub!
I would be curious if anyone has had my minor issues and if you solved them.
Great to know, Thanks! I may have to do the same. I wish there was an RCA output somewhere in the B&O system, I feel like that might solve some of the minor problems I have.
I'm planning to go similar route as Bba postet in this thread
