Car Bricked While Driving. Any Thoughts on This

louibluey

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Do you remember the thread size of those bolts? I want to make sure I have a tap.
Triple check it, but I'm pretty sure it was M6 x 1 mm threads (metric). Some of the holes go deep into aluminum electronics enclosures, I would not want to have to try to get one of those out if it broke. I don't remember if there was a lock compound, but they use some kind of silicone seal (light blue), probably for those who fill the frunk with ice liquid, I would guess to cut down on corrosion. I was thinking of using a tiny bit of some heavy grease, maybet the marine grease I use in a couple of places on the snowblower, but did not yet. They are all M6 x 25 mm. One of Benjiman's bolts was shorter and I almost had a heart attack thinking I may have damaged something, but it turned out he accidentally broke one (thus it was shorter).

I think that some of the threads were slightly damaged at assembly by the motorized assembly tools, still binding after 10+ times removal during my 12V LVB studies, that is why eventually I just re-tapped all the holes.
Ford Mustang Mach-E Car Bricked While Driving. Any Thoughts on This Screen Shot 2021-11-16 at 4.32.06 PM
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HuntingPudel

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Do you remember the thread size of those bolts? I want to make sure I have a tap.
I had my frunk tub out several times and have not had any binding issues. There is a sealant applied to several of the bolts that causes some sticktion. After the 5th or 6th removal/install cycle, the sealant had been so worn out on both the female and male threads that there was no appreciable drag. šŸ˜ŠšŸ©
 

blkadr08

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Don't think of it as a right turn. It was a relatively sharp, long turn on a road with a 55 mph speed limit. Something I've done everyday for years with cars, truck and jeeps. It certainly isn't a challenge for the Mach-E.

Unless it bricks.
Gotcha. A curve . I Usually think of a corner as 90 degrees. 55 corner would be beyond Formula One territory.
 

BadgerGreg

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This was a pretty scary experience for me. I've been in wrecks that didn't bother me as much as this. 60 miles from home and suddenly zero control. I couldn't even use the emergency flashers once I stopped. If I was about 300 or so yards farther up the bridge, I would have been stuck on the road because there isn't a shoulder at the top.

I have 140 mile round trip commute and now I'm wondering if I can trust the car.
I can identify with you, although neither of my two 'stranded' scenarios were as scary as yours. Glad you resolved the issue; I sincerely hope your HV components don't misbehave.
 

WNKent

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This is terrifying.

Imagine being in a bad neighborhood stuck outside of your flashy "I've got money" 2021 car.

Or worse ...

I drive my car up to my cabin ALOT and would be horrified to be stuck outside of my car at night in the middle of the mountains and wilderness. I wouldn't be able to even sleep in my car waiting for help.

What if your phone was stuck in the car while you are locked out of it ??? Can't call for help ?!?!!

Yep, like you reading this, I'd break the window and hop in.
There's an AppleWatch for that! (or any other cellular watch, if you don't like Apple) ;)
 


EVTRAVEL

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I used a jump box to open the frunk. Took apart the frunk to get to the jump point and couldnā€™t get the doors open. The positive connector is really loose.
How did you get access to a jump box? Having one in the car doesn't help if you cannot open doors., Thanks
 

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I think his wife or a co-worker brought him some tools. šŸ˜ŠšŸ©
 

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Driving to work this morning going around a corner doing about 55 mph and my car died. No power, no lights, nothing. Steering and braking was almost impossible but I managed to get it to the shoulder. There was zero warning, just died.

Now Iā€™m sitting here waiting for a tow truck knowing I canā€™t put it in neutral.

Iā€™ve had the car for 4 months and have 8000 miles but have never had a single issue.
@Jon
I have a question Iā€™m thinking you can answer. Since steering is 100% electronic (no mechanically connected parts, right?) in an event like this with complete power loss, how does steering (or braking) function at all? Or have I misunderstood how it works?

Or anyone else who wants to school me on thisā€¦
 
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I have a question Iā€™m thinking you can answer. Since steering is 100% electronic (no mechanically connected parts, right?) in an event like this with complete power loss, how does steering (or braking) function at all? Or have I misunderstood how it works?
They still worked but it took a ton off effort for both.
 

jonkMACHE

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You know, I carry a 12v jumper battery in the car. But now that I think about it, I keep it in the hatch under the cover - which in your situation I would not be able to open the hatch. Time to think about moving that thing somewhere so I can access it if this ever happens.

Too bad the first tow truck did not think to try and give you a jump.
That's a good recommendation. Do you have a brand you'd recommend? Ideally I'd like something low-weight, reliable, that would keep its charge for a while.
 

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@Jon
I have a question Iā€™m thinking you can answer. Since steering is 100% electronic (no mechanically connected parts, right?) in an event like this with complete power loss, how does steering (or braking) function at all? Or have I misunderstood how it works?

Or anyone else who wants to school me on thisā€¦
I believe both systems are electronically controlled but have hydraulic actuators at the core so they can still function without electric power.
 

ckt

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@Jon what build date is yours? Curious if others who are going to check also have the same build date.
 
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what build date is yours? Curious if others who are going to check also have the same build date.

I believe it was 11/19/21
 

dtbaker61

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I'm back up and running no thanks to Ford or 4 different tow companies. After 6 hours and no tow, I decided to have a go at it. BTW, It's a pain in the ass to remove the frunk with minimal tools on the side of the road.

The wire on the right was reading 1.9 volts on the terminal but 12.5 on the actual wire. It took about 4 full turns to tighten it up.

Ford Mustang Mach-E Car Bricked While Driving. Any Thoughts on This Screen Shot 2021-11-16 at 4.32.06 PM

holy CRAP... that is a huge miss on assembly/inspection

...and another example how bad it is to hide all this stuff under covers and tubs that take a half hour and tools to get to! Fuses and connections should have easily removed covers!

.... and just a suggestion, but it would be GREAT if you edit your top post to have a title indicating the specific problem, and that you SOLVED it! It took me a while to find this post in the long thread...
 

dtbaker61

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Driving to work this morning going around a corner doing about 55 mph and my car died. No power, no lights, nothing. Steering and braking was almost impossible but I managed to get it to the shoulder. There was zero warning, just died.

Now Iā€™m sitting here waiting for a tow truck knowing I canā€™t put it in neutral.

Iā€™ve had the car for 4 months and have 8000 miles but have never had a single issue.



Edit - Problem resolved.

On advice from another member, I'm editing this thread.

Please read through for all of the details but here's the short version of the fix.

Found a loose connection in the 12 volt distribution box. Had to tighten the red wire on the right,

Ford Mustang Mach-E Car Bricked While Driving. Any Thoughts on This Screen Shot 2021-11-16 at 4.32.06 PM
thanks for putting the [SOLVED] at the top!

I am glad to see you didn't die with loss of power steering and brakes.... and then suffered thru hours of mental trauma with non-responsive tow etc. It is particularly worriesome for me to see the inspection paint on the nut, but an obvious failure to torque properly.

Personally I think Ford should recommend a recall to have torque checked on this specific nut... either as a general recall, or to be done at 'next service'. I know I am going to check it myself asap and may consider adding a lock washer.

This specific failure, may even be at the root of *some* of the failure to charge 12v issues, or other flaky behavior in the components expecting solid 12v power. Even worse, if it jiggled under load, there could have been arcing, sparking, and possible fire.

I would encourage ALL owners to check this if Ford doesn't issue a general recall.
 
 




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