Charging Errors

[MrRongoose]

Yikes!

Seems like things shouldn't get hot at 40 amps on a car that should be able to accept 48 from a home charger. I'm curious: is it the plug/receptacle in the car's fender that gets hot, the EVSE's cord-end that plugs into the fender, or the wall receptacle that gets hot (assuming you're not hard-wired)?

I was rooting for the smart vs. dumb charger to be the issue, but it sounds like at least one person has experienced this with a 40 amp dumb charger on this thread.

As I understand it, the car's onboard charging unit should absolutely not be able to successfully demand more amps than the EVSE can safely give. They're supposed to come to an agreement and play nice.

I have a dumb Grizzl-E Avalanche Edition, NEMA 14-50 plugged into 50A Two Pole Breaker.

The car is slightly warm to touch around where the plug is but the part that gets hot is the male plug that comes from the EVSE that plugs into car. The physical plug part. The EVSE on the wall is not warm at all. I only noticed it once but It may have done it all the time and cools down when I notice the car isn't charging but I spam refreshed the charge status in app one night so I caught it within 5 mins of it stopping and that's when I noticed the plug was hot to touch. That observation seemed to get Ford CS attention. On 32A, I don't notice the charge stopping or getting hot. (With the exception of last night. For some reason the car GPS showed it a mile away so it wasn't following 90% charge rule. When I ran out to make sure no one stole the car, I started it, saw the map correct then it registered plugged not charging. I assumed because it was at 100% and over 90% at this point. In the morning, it had the orange ring like when it stops on it's own.)

To note, I have been using this charger on 40A since I bought the car last April, in two different houses now, and only had this issue after the last trip to dealer for 21P22 or the 2.4.1 update. Dealer appointment in 2 weeks but new charger arriving next week so I can confirm it's not the charger

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[jamatar1978]

So I’ve been dealing with the Primecom charger stopping after about 30 min on my Mach E. We tried everything, an electrician checking the outlet twice, taking it back to the primecom vender 5 times! Nothing worked until I decided to lower the amp on the charger from 50 Amps to 40 amps. And so far it’s been 45 minutes and it’s still working! I’m cautiously optimistic. Also, we took our car in for the update as well and funny enough, the charger stopped working about a week or two after that. So hopefully this lowering of the ampage to 40 works. I’ll keep everyone updated.

 

[MrRongoose]

Lowering my amps to 32 worked for a while. I took car to dealer where they did a pin test on my charge port. All was well. I had them do the Bluecruise update 22G01 so I'm up to Power-Up 2.5.2

Back home now and I've done a week back at the normal 40 Amps with no issues. Maybe something along the way from 2.4.1 to 2.5.2 they fixed it

 

[MrRongoose]

Anyone else? My issue returned. Was fine for several weeks but it came back. Using a dumb Grizzl-E 40 A. I happened to be in the garage when it turned off tonight. When unplugged, I touched the car in between the charging pins and it was burn your hand hot.

 

[dsheib]

Anyone else? My issue returned. Was fine for several weeks but it came back. Using a dumb Grizzl-E 40 A. I happened to be in the garage when it turned off tonight. When unplugged, I touched the car in between the charging pins and it was burn your hand hot.

My car has done the same for about a year now. Anything higher than 32 amps will cause it to stop charging, normally the app says "Charging paused" and there's no fault showing on the charging port. It's definitely a heat issue, it will take longer to stop charging at 36 amps than it will at 40. I'll have them look at it when I get the glass recall done but I don't feel like having my car tied up for who knows how long when it's not a big deal to just charge at 32 amps for now.

 

[MrRongoose]

My car has done the same for about a year now. Anything higher than 32 amps will cause it to stop charging, normally the app says "Charging paused" and there's no fault showing on the charging port. It's definitely a heat issue, it will take longer to stop charging at 36 amps than it will at 40. I'll have them look at it when I get the glass recall done but I don't feel like having my car tied up for who knows how long when it's not a big deal to just charge at 32 amps for now.

I moved to 32A as suggested in the past and it worked for a while but then happened too. For now, I'll just let it charge a little then pause for an hour or so and turn back on before I go to bed. I have it stop at 90% anyway. I did notice it's worse when the charge is lower. I didn't have the issue until an update a few months ago. They had an engineer from Detroit look at mine previously and they determined it was not the car but maybe I can bring them the EVSE to see if they can replicate it.

What kind of charger do you have? Maybe I just suck it up and get a Charge point or the Ford one. I've wanted a CP but these are so much more affordable and I don't really need the connected features

 

[SolarAB]

I have just started getting the "Plugged in not charging' error. The car will charge for a while, then the app has a message the car is no longer charging. If you go to look at the car, there is a red ring flashing at the charge port. There is also a burning smell in the interior of the car. You can disconnect the charging cable and re-connect and it will start charging again. It is shut down by the vehicle when it stops, not the charger. I seems like an overheating problem in the car's charging connector. Due to this problem, I can no longer charge the car to full capacity.

Possible trigger - my last charging session before the error started was at an Electrify Canada public fast charger.

I use a Grizzl-e Classic level two charger at home and have for over a year.

 

[Texas-E]

I moved to 32A as suggested in the past and it worked for a while but then happened too. For now, I'll just let it charge a little then pause for an hour or so and turn back on before I go to bed. I have it stop at 90% anyway. I did notice it's worse when the charge is lower. I didn't have the issue until an update a few months ago. They had an engineer from Detroit look at mine previously and they determined it was not the car but maybe I can bring them the EVSE to see if they can replicate it.

What kind of charger do you have? Maybe I just suck it up and get a Charge point or the Ford one. I've wanted a CP but these are so much more affordable and I don't really need the connected features

Mine is doing it with a ChargePoint. I feel fairly confident it is a "car" issue.

 

[Texas-E]

Possible trigger - my last charging session before the error started was at an Electrify Canada public fast charger.

I use a Grizzl-e Classic level two charger at home and have for over a year.

I have only charged one time at a charger that is not at my house (EA about a year ago just so I knew how it worked). I don't think your public charger possible trigger is the issue.

 

[MrRongoose]

Mine is doing it with a ChargePoint. I feel fairly confident it is a "car" issue.

I'll schedule a time with the dealer, since they already investigated it. Maybe @Ford Motor Company can take a look at this forum again, multiple users reporting an overheat at the chargeport and smells of burning. Seems like a report worthy of investigation

 

[Mach-Lee]

Anyone else? My issue returned. Was fine for several weeks but it came back. Using a dumb Grizzl-E 40 A. I happened to be in the garage when it turned off tonight. When unplugged, I touched the car in between the charging pins and it was burn your hand hot.

Bad connection. Replace the charge port, the J1772 handle, or both. I would try another 40A EVSE to determine if the problem is on the car side or the handle side. It will get warm but shouldn't be burning hot anywhere.

 

[MrRongoose]

Bad connection. Replace the charge port, the J1772 handle, or both. I would try another 40A EVSE to determine if the problem is on the car side or the handle side. It will get warm but shouldn't be burning hot anywhere.

Tried with two separate EVSE's, two charge handles and the dealer pin tested the entire car charge area. I was fine from day one until one of the updates. I think 2.41, I have it in a previous post

 

[Mach-Lee]

Tried with two separate EVSE's, two charge handles and the dealer pin tested the entire car charge area. I was fine from day one until one of the updates. I think 2.41, I have it in a previous post

Just because there is continuity on the pins doesn't mean the connection is good. Dealer was looking for no connection rather than a bad connection. You need to get them to replace your charge port. They should look at the charge port temperatures with the scan tool while charging to diagnose properly.

 

[MrRongoose]

Just because there is continuity on the pins doesn't mean the connection is good. Dealer was looking for no connection rather than a bad connection. You need to get them to replace your charge port. They should look at the charge port temperatures with the scan tool while charging to diagnose properly.

Thanks for the advice. I will see what they will do when I bring that up

 

[dsheib]

Thanks for the advice. I will see what they will do when I bring that up

Someone else was having this issue back in March and we were working on logging Car Scanner data from the AC Charger Coupler Temperature sensors to possibly determine why charging would stop. I had come up with some interesting readings but was not able to get anyone else with the problem to run the same tests to see if they had the same findings.

Check out the thread at https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...charger-coupler-temperature.15860/post-384861

If we can get a few people to run the same tests we can determine if high charging coupler temperatures are the issue, I'd also like to see data from someone without the issue to compare temperatures.
I have tested my car with both a Grizzl-E and a Juicebox 40 charger and the charger doesn't matter, if I set the charger to 32 amps it works fine, anything higher and the problem occurs. It's a lot easier to runs the tests with the Juicebox as I can change the amperage in the app instead of taking the cover off the Grizzl-E charger and changing the DIP switches.

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