DIY Tutorial for Hardwiring a Dashcam and Radar Detector

[.Eduardo]

The fuse for the camera is only 3 amps so I'm not sure why they would recommend that. Now if it's on a used spot they could possibly recommend that because between the previously used fuse and the new fuse the total would be higher. I'm gonna have to say they are incorrect.

A 3 amp fuse will trip at +3 amps regardless if the previous fuse was 5 amps, 10 or 30. What they are suggesting just doesn't make sense. And the majority of fuse taps are not rated for 10 or 30 amps so I'm slightly perplexed.

Note: I noticed while running a pre-install test on my DR900X-2CH Plus, it drains less than 1 A (around 0.5 A) when recording. About 0.4 A when not recording even with all the LED options set to "on". Yes that includes the rear camera.
So I also believe a 3 to 5 amp fuse will be OK. Current draining is not too high with this camera model. Note also the DR900X2CHPlus has an internal "power magic" setting to protect your battery. That or also the option of installing a dedicated dashcam battery to the switched circuit. The camera would then connect to the dedicated battery instead and run until the dedicated battery is drained, fully protecting your vehicle's battery. This is the setup I have on my 2015 Mustang. Works well.

Regards,
Eduardo

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[.Eduardo]

I just had the U1000 2-channel installed along with the Cellink Neo battery pack. It's awesome and was a super clean install.

Could you share where the CELLINK battery was placed in your Mach-E?

 

[.Eduardo]

I've completed my install.
Notes from my experience:

Rear camera install is difficult but worth it. I fished the wire using a coat-hanger.

Fuses were used as such:
6 (not in used) tapped for BATT+ (constant tension)
1-2 (not in used) tapped for ACC+ (switched)

GND used side dashboard metal bar, taking advantage of an already existing screw.

Set the camera to cut off at 12.3V while parked.
Front camera with lenses centered (not on the sides).

Tested taps to camera plug for tension continuity and made these observations:

bash script works OK and automatically downloaded today's videos to a shared folder.
Sample video:


Rather than creating a new thread I just used this one. There are tons of good information here.

 

[MachDoc]

Fuses were used as such:
6 (not in used) tapped for BATT+ (constant tension)
1-2 (not in used) tapped for ACC+ (switched)

Curious, How do you know they are unused?
I would prefer to move mine to unused circuits.

 

[.Eduardo]

Curious, How do you know they are unused?
I would prefer to move mine to unused circuits.

Hello! Sure. The owner’s manual indicated they were unused.
I downloaded the manual through Ford using my VIN.

 

[MinervaDreaming]

Could you share where the CELLINK battery was placed in your Mach-E?

Sure, here you go

 

[.Eduardo]

Sure, here you go

Thanks. It was stored in the trunk. Interesting.

 

[skiingj]

Great thread. This has helped me immensely with my Rexing install.

I wonder why Ford installs fuses in unused spaces.

 

[DevSecOps]

Curious, How do you know they are unused?
I would prefer to move mine to unused circuits.

Use this link:

https://fuse-box.info/ford/ford-mustang-mach-e-2021-fuses

There's plenty of unused fused locations and they should be used before using one that is actively used.

All of the 3 pin fuses are switched and all of the 2 pin fuses are always on.

Best switched (unused) for GTPE = 1/2
Best switched (unused) for Non-GTPE = 1/2 & 15/16
Best always on (unused) all trims = 5,6,13,24

 

[MinervaDreaming]

Thanks. It was stored in the trunk. Interesting.

Yeah, in the end it ended up being the best spot - it was too large to go under the driver or passenger seat w/o getting in the way of rear passengers.

 

[MachDoc]

Use this link:

https://fuse-box.info/ford/ford-mustang-mach-e-2021-fuses

There's plenty of unused fused locations and they should be used before using one that is actively used.

All of the 3 pin fuses are switched and all of the 2 pin fuses are always on.

Best switched (unused) for GTPE = 1/2
Best switched (unused) for Non-GTPE = 1/2 & 15/16
Best always on (unused) all trims = 5,6,13,24

I'll have to go poking around again this weekend. Thanks.

 

[.Eduardo]

Direct LAN dowload of video files (blackvue).

 

[Darkenmage]

Hi, was hoping you can confirm which side of the 15/16 fuse the power is coming in from. Can’t seem to get a reading from my probe so I looked at your pics for that fuse tap. It seems that the power is coming from top (where the label is for 16) going to bottom (where the label is for 15). I am basing this from seeing your tap cable going downwards. Can you please confirm that my thinking correct?

Exactly which points in the rearview mirror cover do u use the pry tools? I do not want to pry it in the wrong spot and break anything?

 

[P65]

@MachDoc & @.Eduardo
I got same Dashcam DR900X-2CH Plus, and placed it I guess at same position like you but I face the issue that I have no GPS signal there. Must be some interference. As soon as I take the cam of the holder and let it bounce on the cables (under the reverse mirror) the GPS signal is there (blue light on dashcam).

Did you have similar behavior?

Which is your exact dashcam position to the plastic cover of the windshield console, some dimensions would be appreciated.

 

[.Eduardo]

@MachDoc & @.Eduardo
I got same Dashcam DR900X-2CH Plus, and placed it I guess at same position like you but I face the issue that I have no GPS signal there. Must be some interference. As soon as I take the cam of the holder and let it bounce on the cables (under the reverse mirror) the GPS signal is there (blue light on dashcam).

Did you have similar behavior?

Which is your exact dashcam position to the plastic cover of the windshield console, some dimensions would be appreciated.

I have GPS without any issues. My Mach-E has no solar roof and so no 360 cameras nor the steering wheel driver sensor. If that matters.
I will take a picture from below the camera to render an exact position for you later in the day.

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