Home Level 2 Charger Issues

[timbop]

If you go into the fordpass app can you click on the "charge to 100% now" button? Also, did you set charging times or max charging %? Either of those could cause the car not to charge right when you plug it in (charge times issue) or at all (max charging % lower than current charge).

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[Brademcee]

If you go into the fordpass app can you click on the "charge to 100% now" button? Also, did you set charging times or max charging %? Either of those could cause the car not to charge right when you plug it in (charge times issue) or at all (max charging % lower than current charge).

Weird, now the app says it is unplugged and then changed to Charge Paused. I just checked my garage and the Ford charger still has the steady blue light. I do not see an option under Manage Charging in the Ford Pass app to select charge now.
In the Ford Pass app I go to Vehicle->Manage EV->Manage Charging. There I see my Est. Distance to empty, status and charge session window. There is a selection for Charge Settings. Under that option there is a selection for manual (radial button no other options) or manual Charging with Setup Preferred Charge Times (if I select that it takes to a setup screen that then shows me an blank page that show saved locations and previous locations which both are blank). Only other option under Manual Charge Settings is Departure Times with no Departure Times set.

I do not see where to select the max charging % or a charge to 100% now. Am I looking in the wrong place on the app?

 

[jparduhn70]

I am having the same issue as the OP. I just brought home my MME and I can not get it to charge. I have a 240V outlet that has a JuiceBox Pro 40 (older gen) that has charged my Tesla for the last two years. When I plug in the MME, on the App I see that it says Plugged In Not Charging (like the OP). I thought it was an issue with the JuiceBox because it was the older generation. I unplugged the JuiceBox and plugged in the Ford mobile charger to the 240V outlet. I get the same notice Plugged In Not Charging. I know the dealer was able to charge the car (not with the included Ford mobile charger) so I do not think it is the car unless it is really sensitive. I will have an Electrican come out to look at the 240V outlet but I do not know why the Tesla would of charged with no issues but the MME will not charge on my 240V outlet. I have it set to manual charge (I have not set up any charging windows).

When I first plug in the Ford Charger to the 240V charger and connect it to the MME, I see the Ford charger light slowly blink blue and on the car it just shows blue LEDs at the charge port (about 3/4 of them are blue) and then a few minutes later I hear a click on the charger and it goes to a steady blue.

Not sure what to do other than calling an Electrican. Maybe the MME is more sensitive then the Tesla on the charge it is getting.......

I'm still at this point and frustrated. I went to the dealer yesterday to talk to them about it. They were not helpful at all. The service advisor and the EV 'expert' had no clue why there could be an issue. They didn't have a NEMA 14-50 outlet to test the mobile charger, either. If this is the level of service one can expect when it comes to the dealer network, Ford has a long way to go.

I'm going to replace what I feel is the weak link in the chain, and that's the physical outlet itself. I went on some of the Tesla forums where they discussed home charger wiring, as well as the Tesla pages themselves. Consensus was to use an industrial-grade outlet, not one you would buy from Home Depot or another big box hardware store. I had to order a Bryant one from Grainger that others had recommended, so I won't see that until tomorrow. Outside of the contacts apparently being grippier for plugging and unplugging cycle durability, the wiring contacts themselves are not the saddle-type clamp connections found on the Leviton ones from HD.

If this doesn't work, it's time to call one of the electricians listed on the Tesla site for professional guidance.

 

[Brademcee]

I'm still at this point and frustrated. I went to the dealer yesterday to talk to them about it. They were not helpful at all. The service advisor and the EV 'expert' had no clue why there could be an issue. They didn't have a NEMA 14-50 outlet to test the mobile charger, either. If this is the level of service one can expect when it comes to the dealer network, Ford has a long way to go.

I'm going to replace what I feel is the weak link in the chain, and that's the physical outlet itself. I went on some of the Tesla forums where they discussed home charger wiring, as well as the Tesla pages themselves. Consensus was to use an industrial-grade outlet, not one you would buy from Home Depot or another big box hardware store. I had to order a Bryant one from Grainger that others had recommended, so I won't see that until tomorrow. Outside of the contacts apparently being grippier for plugging and unplugging cycle durability, the wiring contacts themselves are not the saddle-type clamp connections found on the Leviton ones from HD.

If this doesn't work, it's time to call one of the electricians listed on the Tesla site for professional guidance.

I am going to call the company that put in the 240 outlet 2 years ago and have them come out to look. I’ll report back what happens and what hopefully they do to correct the isssue. Please let me know if you get yours to work and what was done to fix it. Sounds like we both have a similar problem.
Thanks!

 

[jparduhn70]

Weird, now the app says it is unplugged and then changed to Charge Paused. I just checked my garage and the Ford charger still has the steady blue light. I do not see an option under Manage Charging in the Ford Pass app to select charge now.
In the Ford Pass app I go to Vehicle->Manage EV->Manage Charging. There I see my Est. Distance to empty, status and charge session window. There is a selection for Charge Settings. Under that option there is a selection for manual (radial button no other options) or manual Charging with Setup Preferred Charge Times (if I select that it takes to a setup screen that then shows me an blank page that show saved locations and previous locations which both are blank). Only other option under Manual Charge Settings is Departure Times with no Departure Times set.

I do not see where to select the max charging % or a charge to 100% now. Am I looking in the wrong place on the app?

The FordPass app takes some getting used to. Once you're able to create charging locations, which is purely contingent upon getting a successful charge to occur someplace, you can set max charging percentage.

 

[jparduhn70]

I am going to call the company that put in the 240 outlet 2 years ago and have them come out to look. I’ll report back what happens and what hopefully they do to correct the isssue. Please let me know if you get yours to work and what was done to fix it. Sounds like we both have a similar problem.
Thanks!

Please PM me or post with what they have to say. I'm really curious. Good luck!

 

[Brademcee]

Please PM me or post with what they have to say. I'm really curious. Good luck!

Sure I’ll post an update. Hoping it’s as simple as a white neutral.

 

[dbsb3233]

I'm still at this point and frustrated. I went to the dealer yesterday to talk to them about it. They were not helpful at all. The service advisor and the EV 'expert' had no clue why there could be an issue. They didn't have a NEMA 14-50 outlet to test the mobile charger, either. If this is the level of service one can expect when it comes to the dealer network, Ford has a long way to go.

I'm going to replace what I feel is the weak link in the chain, and that's the physical outlet itself. I went on some of the Tesla forums where they discussed home charger wiring, as well as the Tesla pages themselves. Consensus was to use an industrial-grade outlet, not one you would buy from Home Depot or another big box hardware store. I had to order a Bryant one from Grainger that others had recommended, so I won't see that until tomorrow. Outside of the contacts apparently being grippier for plugging and unplugging cycle durability, the wiring contacts themselves are not the saddle-type clamp connections found on the Leviton ones from HD.

If this doesn't work, it's time to call one of the electricians listed on the Tesla site for professional guidance.

Does your dealer have a Mach-E demo car? If so, maybe you can talk them into borrowing the charger from that one for a few hours so you can take it home and try it in your outlet.

 

[jparduhn70]

Does your dealer have a Mach-E demo car? If so, maybe you can talk them into borrowing the charger from that one for a few hours so you can take it home and try it in your outlet.

That's a good thought. I'd have to check to see if they do or not. I know they have a few in inventory, but noty sure about FCTP.

 

[Brademcee]

That's a good thought. I'd have to check to see if they do or not. I know they have a few in inventory, but noty sure about FCTP.

Electrican that originally installed it two years ago is on their way to our house to investigate. They do a lot of these so he should know. I will report back to what we find.

 

[dbsb3233]

That's a good thought. I'd have to check to see if they do or not. I know they have a few in inventory, but noty sure about FCTP.

That would only tell you if the problem is the charger. Seems more likely it's the outlet, or the car. And probably not the car since I think you said it did a successful 240V charge at the dealer.

Still though, eliminating the charger as the problem (by trying a different one) would help narrow it down. Maybe if you package it back up like new, they might let you swap it with one in an inventory car for the day.

 

[Brademcee]

That would only tell you if the problem is the charger. Seems more likely it's the outlet, or the car. And probably not the car since I think you said it did a successful 240V charge at the dealer.

Still though, eliminating the charger as the problem (by trying a different one) would help narrow it down. Maybe if you package it back up like new, they might let you swap it with one in an inventory car for the day.

So the electrician is leaving now with the problem NOT fixed. Here is what he confirmed. The 240V outlet is on a 50 amp breaker, the black/red (hot) and neutral white are all wired with 6 gauge cable the ground is green with 10 gauge cable. He said everything checks out in the breaker panel and his meter at the outlet was perfect. When we plugged in the Ford Charger to the 240V and then into the MME, there was a quick red light on only the right LED of the charger (it happens so fast I never noticed it) with the rest of the LEDs blue. You can hear a audible click on the charger (split second) and then a slow blue flashing light on the charger for 15 seconds and then it turns solid blue. He asked if there was a way to tell the car how much power it was getting like the Tesla and I said I did not think so. Wondering it if we can tell the MME it that its getting 50 amps.

 

[dbsb3233]

He asked if there was a way to tell the car how much power it was getting like the Tesla and I said I did not think so. Wondering it if we can tell the MME it that its getting 50 amps.

Unfortunately the car doesn't display the charging power being added like some BEVs do. You can sort of caluculate it based on how fast the % is going up, but that only gets you in the ballpark. And of course you can only do that if it's all working, and you have like an hour+ of charging completed.

And the outlet isn't actually delivering 50A to the charger. The outlet only delivers whatever the plugged-in device is pulling. Whether than be an oven or a dryer, or a EV charger. In this case, the Ford Mobile Charger is rated at 32A, so it should draw 32A. The fact that the circuit breaker is rated at 50A simply means it won't trip unless a plugged-in device attempted to pull more than 50A from it.

 

[Brademcee]

Don't think so. Unfortunately the car doesn't display the charging power being added like many BEVs. You can sort of caluculate it based on how fast the % is going up, but that only gets you in the ballpark. And of course you can only do that if it's all working, and you have like an hour+ of charging completed.

And the outlet isn't actually delivering 50A to the charger. The outlet only delivers what ever the plugged-in device is pulling. Whether than be an oven or a dryer, or a EV charger. In this case, the Ford Mobile Charger is rated at 32A, so it should draw 32A. The fact that the circuit breaker is rated at 50A simply means it won't trip unless a plugged-in device attempted to pull more than 50A from it.

Okay, I was worried it needed to be a 50 Amp. I am chatting online with Ford customer service.

 

[back_at_it_19]

I would bring the included charger back to the dealer and say it doesn’t work at 240 and ask for a new one. Let them test or replace.

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