Home Level 2 Charger Issues

Edgardk

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I have done a Master Sync reset, Charging Location reset , Profile reset and deleted Ford pass. Didn’t fix it but it did fix my ability to save my tone settings.
How do you do Charging location reset?
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Brademcee

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When I get back home, I can check. It was in a menu I believe.
So when I did the following resets it did NOT fix my home 240V charging issues but it did fix some other issues with sync and PAAK.

I did it in this order.

(1a) Remove Vehicle from Ford Pass on phone
DO THESE ON CAR
(1b) Settings->Personal Profiles->Delete your profiles
(1) Settings->Charge->Charging Schedule (tap on the pencil)->delete any charging schedules by hitting the trash can
(2) Settings->Charge->Departure and Comfort (tap on pencil)->Clear All->Yes
(3) Settings->General->Reset->Ford Pass Connect Reset->Reset All
(4) Settings->General->Reset->Master Reset
 

Edgardk

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So when I did the following resets it did NOT fix my home 240V charging issues but it did fix some other issues with sync and PAAK.

I did it in this order.

(1a) Remove Vehicle from Ford Pass on phone
DO THESE ON CAR
(1b) Settings->Personal Profiles->Delete your profiles
(1) Settings->Charge->Charging Schedule (tap on the pencil)->delete any charging schedules by hitting the trash can
(2) Settings->Charge->Departure and Comfort (tap on pencil)->Clear All->Yes
(3) Settings->General->Reset->Ford Pass Connect Reset->Reset All
(4) Settings->General->Reset->Master Reset
Thank you, I did try all the above, i even deleted FordPass from my iPhone and reinstall it, the 240v charging on weekdays was and is still the main issue. After 4 weeks of trying almost everything I could, I am just giving up on trying and waiting for Ford to fix the issue hopefully soon. Otherwise the car and accessories are running almost perfectly except few computer glitches which is totally acceptable when dealing with new software.
 


Peugfan

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Still thinking single phase power versus three phase may be some of the issue. Although I feel like Helen Keller giving directions on how to get out of a maze....
Are the Mach E cars that go to Europe set up for 3-phase power? If so, did your car get some components that were only supposed to be on European cars? Just trying to throw out some ideas here. On the farm in the late 50's when I grew up I know we had 3 phase power to a few motors on silo unloaders and a motorized auger to deliver feed to beef cattle. I remember being told that it was because we would get more power out of smaller electrical motors. The rest of our farm used regular 1-phase power. My understanding is that 3 phase power in America is only used in industry. Expecting my car in 2 weeks so I am hoping for no issues.
 

Brademcee

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Are the Mach E cars that go to Europe set up for 3-phase power? If so, did your car get some components that were only supposed to be on European cars? Just trying to throw out some ideas here. On the farm in the late 50's when I grew up I know we had 3 phase power to a few motors on silo unloaders and a motorized auger to deliver feed to beef cattle. I remember being told that it was because we would get more power out of smaller electrical motors. The rest of our farm used regular 1-phase power. My understanding is that 3 phase power in America is only used in industry. Expecting my car in 2 weeks so I am hoping for no issues.
This seems to be limited to very few owners so I would think you would be okay when you get yours.
 

Wally

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:( New to the forum. been a reader for some time. kept me sane while waiting for my Mach E. I'm having the same issue. Car refuses to charge via a 240 volt NEMA 14-50, Either with the for Mobile charger or my Juice Box 40 that has been in use for 6 months or so on my Pacifica PHEV. heading back to the deal today.

FYI: Voltage across the terminals
Last night: 244v
This morning: 237v
 

Brademcee

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:( New to the forum. been a reader for some time. kept me sane while waiting for my Mach E. I'm having the same issue. Car refuses to charge via a 240 volt NEMA 14-50, Either with the for Mobile charger or my Juice Box 40 that has been in use for 6 months or so on my Pacifica PHEV. heading back to the deal today.

FYI: Voltage across the terminals
Last night: 244v
This morning: 237v
Where are you located and curious where you bought your car?
 

Brademcee

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***UPDATE*** (and sorry for the super long post)
First, a disclaimer. If you are having issues with your 240V charging from your home, you need to contact your dealers service department to start the process of servicing the vehicle. Second, if there is anyway you can convince your dealer to try another MME at your house to see if it charges, that will help make the case the issue is with your car and not your electric. Although, it might just prove their is an issue with both cars ?.

Lastly, it seems that many of us are seeing the same symptoms of not being able to charge on a 240V from home BUT the cause may be different for each of us. No way to know unless you contact your service department.

Now for my update and spoiler alert, it’s not fixed YET.

So on Friday (3/12) I had a Ford Mach-E engineer at my house working on the car in coordination with the Mach-E charging/battery engineers at HQ. They ran a bunch of diagnostics on the car using the OBD port to see in real time what was happening. They did not find any faults in the car’s system (unlike one forum members car that recorded a fault code for over voltage which shuts down the 240V charging which is strange because at 256V it’s within tolerance of a NEMA 14-50). When they were monitoring the diagnostics when the EVSE was connected to the 240V they can see the Battery Control Module (BCM) was not being told to start charging.

What I was told is that there is a 12 volt trigger on the EVSE’s that when connected to the charge port wakes up the BCM to tell it to start charging (it’s one of the pins on the charge port). They are seeing that there was a weak signal on my EVSEs (JuiceBox Pro 40 and Ford Mobile Charger) 12 volt trigger pin that may be preventing the MME BCM from engaging and starting to charge (they did not know why this was measuring lower then what it should be).

HOWEVER, what caused them to have conflicting findings is that they also measured the same weak 12 volt trigger on the EVSE (both EVSEs) when connected to my 110 outlet but yet the car charges fine. It seems that whatever parameters are needed on this 12 volt trigger (the engineer told me it’s a industry standard on all EVSEs and technology within EVs charging systems) is weaker then it should be and therefor not waking up the BCM to start the internal charging to the battery.

Additionally, the dealer had brought over another MME that charged fine from both of my EVSEs. In order to get more data to the team, they loaded a token onto my system that would continuously stream data back to the Mach-E engineers. I had to sign a bunch of paperwork allowing them to do this since it’s sending all of my driving data too. I guess I need to hold off on all of my illegal habits ?.

The engineer told me they also uploaded a bunch of data to the team that will be used for analysis. They said the team will be reviewing over the weekend and hopefully have the next steps back to me mid next week.

I am very confident they will figure this out and it’s being handled and supervised by the main MME team (including the Chief Mach-E engineer who has been super responsive getting his various teams engaged).

I must say that this sucks but I am super impressed that a global car company that is the epitome of the old way of manufacturing cars is so hyper focused on direct communication. I know it’s not the same for everyone so hopefully my issue is the same as yours and when they figure it out, the fix can be used on other vehicles.

So my last thought. Besides the Ford Engineer my dealer (Fair Oaks) had one of their techs at my house too. We talked a bit about how Ford is handling training all of these dealer’s service departments. Obviously this car is a totally different animal then Ford’s other Hybrid EVs and the service techs need to be trained from the ground up on these systems. The Ford Engineer that was at my house is actually going to be the trainer for the Chicagoland area (Ford is relocating him to the Chicagoland area as a MME service tech trainer). The service tech from Fair Oaks seemed knowledgeable (and able to work on the MMEs systems) and is going to be trained by the Ford Engineer for more advanced system training. I could hear them talking and reviewing things together to get the service tech familiar with advanced troubleshooting. Thus, it is going to take time for Ford to get the dealer’s trained but it sounds like the strategy is to position trainers across the country to get the dealer’s service departments at least one tech that is the expert. He said Ford has had a lot of training already about how to do diagnostic testing, module updates and other L1 and L2 issues but it’s once you get into the more complicated issues things are broken right now. However, it seems that now that Ford has these vehicles on the street, they are refining their training strategy.

I still love the car from inside and out. I was a Tesla fanboy but fell in love with the looks of the MME (inside and out), impressed with the technology and then the driving/range. Ford has a lot riding on the success of this car so I know a little patience will go a long way. I am really hoping that whatever they figure out will apply to the rest of you having similar issues.
 

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Almost like a defective harness or cold solder joint causing a high open. May be the socket or one of the boards. Did they ohm out every pin from the socket and jiggle the harness as they did?
 

Brademcee

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Almost like a defective harness or cold solder joint causing a high open. May be the socket or one of the boards. Did they ohm out every pin from the socket and jiggle the harness as they did?
Not sure. But I am guessing they will look at it. What is strange that I guess the same pin is used on the 110 but it’s working.
 
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As frustrated as I've been, I've not taken out any aggressions with the dealership or the people I've talked to at Ford Customer Experience. They may not seem to know much, and often say things that are completely inaccurate, but it's nothing that a little training can't resolve. I am an early adopter and accepted that I would likely have some hiccups to deal with along the way a long time ago. I love the car and look forward to many years driving it. I am committed to working with Ford to improve and to figure out the charging issue at 256V.

@Brademcee, I agree with everything you said in your post and am truly impressed at the attention you've been getting from Ford and Fair Oaks. It's definitely a lot more than I expected from them and only increases my confidence they'll work all of this out.
 

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***UPDATE*** (and sorry for the super long post)
First, a disclaimer. If you are having issues with your 240V charging from your home, you need to contact your dealers service department to start the process of servicing the vehicle. Second, if there is anyway you can convince your dealer to try another MME at your house to see if it charges, that will help make the case the issue is with your car and not your electric. Although, it might just prove their is an issue with both cars ?.

Lastly, it seems that many of us are seeing the same symptoms of not being able to charge on a 240V from home BUT the cause may be different for each of us. No way to know unless you contact your service department.

Now for my update and spoiler alert, it’s not fixed YET.

So on Friday (3/12) I had a Ford Mach-E engineer at my house working on the car in coordination with the Mach-E charging/battery engineers at HQ. They ran a bunch of diagnostics on the car using the OBD port to see in real time what was happening. They did not find any faults in the car’s system (unlike one forum members car that recorded a fault code for over voltage which shuts down the 240V charging which is strange because at 256V it’s within tolerance of a NEMA 14-50). When they were monitoring the diagnostics when the EVSE was connected to the 240V they can see the Battery Control Module (BCM) was not being told to start charging.

What I was told is that there is a 12 volt trigger on the EVSE’s that when connected to the charge port wakes up the BCM to tell it to start charging (it’s one of the pins on the charge port). They are seeing that there was a weak signal on my EVSEs (JuiceBox Pro 40 and Ford Mobile Charger) 12 volt trigger pin that may be preventing the MME BCM from engaging and starting to charge (they did not know why this was measuring lower then what it should be).

HOWEVER, what caused them to have conflicting findings is that they also measured the same weak 12 volt trigger on the EVSE (both EVSEs) when connected to my 110 outlet but yet the car charges fine. It seems that whatever parameters are needed on this 12 volt trigger (the engineer told me it’s a industry standard on all EVSEs and technology within EVs charging systems) is weaker then it should be and therefor not waking up the BCM to start the internal charging to the battery.

Additionally, the dealer had brought over another MME that charged fine from both of my EVSEs. In order to get more data to the team, they loaded a token onto my system that would continuously stream data back to the Mach-E engineers. I had to sign a bunch of paperwork allowing them to do this since it’s sending all of my driving data too. I guess I need to hold off on all of my illegal habits ?.

The engineer told me they also uploaded a bunch of data to the team that will be used for analysis. They said the team will be reviewing over the weekend and hopefully have the next steps back to me mid next week.

I am very confident they will figure this out and it’s being handled and supervised by the main MME team (including the Chief Mach-E engineer who has been super responsive getting his various teams engaged).

I must say that this sucks but I am super impressed that a global car company that is the epitome of the old way of manufacturing cars is so hyper focused on direct communication. I know it’s not the same for everyone so hopefully my issue is the same as yours and when they figure it out, the fix can be used on other vehicles.

So my last thought. Besides the Ford Engineer my dealer (Fair Oaks) had one of their techs at my house too. We talked a bit about how Ford is handling training all of these dealer’s service departments. Obviously this car is a totally different animal then Ford’s other Hybrid EVs and the service techs need to be trained from the ground up on these systems. The Ford Engineer that was at my house is actually going to be the trainer for the Chicagoland area (Ford is relocating him to the Chicagoland area as a MME service tech trainer). The service tech from Fair Oaks seemed knowledgeable (and able to work on the MMEs systems) and is going to be trained by the Ford Engineer for more advanced system training. I could hear them talking and reviewing things together to get the service tech familiar with advanced troubleshooting. Thus, it is going to take time for Ford to get the dealer’s trained but it sounds like the strategy is to position trainers across the country to get the dealer’s service departments at least one tech that is the expert. He said Ford has had a lot of training already about how to do diagnostic testing, module updates and other L1 and L2 issues but it’s once you get into the more complicated issues things are broken right now. However, it seems that now that Ford has these vehicles on the street, they are refining their training strategy.

I still love the car from inside and out. I was a Tesla fanboy but fell in love with the looks of the MME (inside and out), impressed with the technology and then the driving/range. Ford has a lot riding on the success of this car so I know a little patience will go a long way. I am really hoping that whatever they figure out will apply to the rest of you having similar issues.
Not knowing anything about the electrical details, I’m just still instinctively convinced its software related to either location or or max charge or charging times. Has anyone had this charging issues that had NOT used the app or set times and locations on the car?
 

back_at_it_19

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Not knowing anything about the electrical details, I’m just still instinctively convinced its software related to either location or or max charge or charging times. Has anyone had this charging issues that had NOT used the app or set times and locations on the car?
And thank you for being another pioneer!!
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