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CHeil402

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3 Phase power has 2 different systems, WYE = 120/208 DELTA =277/480
If they have DELTA they would use a transformer to step it down to
120/240. This is common everywhere.
True. Still, unless you bring your own meter I doubt the dealer would be able to tell you which they have.
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True. Still, unless you bring your own meter I doubt the dealer would be able to tell you which they have.
Go outside where the electric meter is. Look in the glass meter
do you see a Y or do you see a triangle ?
Plus the electric cabinet must be labeled with big orange
sticker 480VOLTS
 

opennetus

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I am having this same issue. 240 volt outlets not working with Mach-E at home (despite working fine for our other non-Ford EV using the same EVSEs). 120 volt does work, as well as public level 2 chargers around town and at the dealership.

I opened up a service request with my dealer about it. He said they currently haven’t received any service bulletins from Ford regarding this problem.

I have read about half the messages in this thread.... guessing no one has any solutions yet. The voltage in my area is above 240 volts, but not massively so. Maybe around 246-248. Don’t remember exactly. I remember noticing it was a little high when my electrician installed the circuit last year and asking him about it. He said it is pretty common for residential areas to run a little higher, but that it is still within an acceptable range and shouldn’t matter. It is also outside of our control to change since the utility sets it.
 
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Just had my car checked by a Ford engineer at my dealership, here is the message I received from the service department:
Unfortunately, we know what the problem is, but Ford has to build an over the air update program and then your problem will be solved. This is in the process, but not ready as of yet. Should have a better idea later part of next week as to exactly when this can be done.
I suppose this is promising news, but I’m not going to hold my breath. I still haven’t seen the first OTA update.
 

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I am having this same issue. 240 volt outlets not working with Mach-E at home (despite working fine for our other non-Ford EV using the same EVSEs). 120 volt does work, as well as public level 2 chargers around town and at the dealership.

I opened up a service request with my dealer about it. He said they currently haven’t received any service bulletins from Ford regarding this problem.

I have read about half the messages in this thread.... guessing no one has any solutions yet. The voltage in my area is above 240 volts, but not massively so. Maybe around 246-248. Don’t remember exactly. I remember noticing it was a little high when my electrician installed the circuit last year and asking him about it. He said it is pretty common for residential areas to run a little higher, but that it is still within an acceptable range and shouldn’t matter. It is also outside of our control to change since the utility sets it.
Where are you located?
 


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It would be cool if there were an easily installed temporary device to condition the circuit of one or more folks with well over 240V down to a more typical number and see if that changes their charging experience. Does that exist?
 

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If wired properly, you should measure 120V (nominal) from hot to neutral and hot to ground.
Zero volts neutral to ground.
So, I had time to check this afternoon, and I'm getting 126V from hot to neutral and hot to ground. Also measure minimal mV between neutral and ground.

However, I got an overload, when checking neutral to junction box (cover plate screw) or ground to junction box. Note the junction box is metal and pretty corroded ... probably ~60 yrs old. Could this be what the Ford mobile charger is not liking?
 

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So, I had time to check this afternoon, and I'm getting 126V from hot to neutral and hot to ground. Also measure minimal mV between neutral and ground.

However, I got an overload, when checking neutral to junction box (cover plate screw) or ground to junction box. Note the junction box is metal and pretty corroded ... probably ~60 yrs old. Could this be what the Ford mobile charger is not liking?
What do you mean by overload? Something tripped? What kind of meter were you using?

Based on @CHeil402 post below, that makes sense, were you trying to measure resistance between the ground pin and the box? So, first, as Chis points out, you are not dead, so probably no 120V on the box, which yes, is where I was going :). I would measure voltage ground to box first, but yes if there is not a low resistance path ground to box, that should be fixed. Assuming a proper ground to neutral connection at the main box, the charge station should not be "aware" of the box itself.
 
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CHeil402

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So, I had time to check this afternoon, and I'm getting 126V from hot to neutral and hot to ground. Also measure minimal mV between neutral and ground.

However, I got an overload, when checking neutral to junction box (cover plate screw) or ground to junction box. Note the junction box is metal and pretty corroded ... probably ~60 yrs old. Could this be what the Ford mobile charger is not liking?
No, overload likely means too high of a resistance to measure properly as you're not dead. If there was a high voltage difference between neutral and the box you'd get shocked. If you're seeing 126 V, that means your 240 V is likely seeing 252 V which is pretty high.
 

prdude

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No, overload likely means too high of a resistance to measure properly as you're not dead. If there was a high voltage difference between neutral and the box you'd get shocked. If you're seeing 126 V, that means your 240 V is likely seeing 252 V which is pretty high.
Sorry, I should have included my original post, where I hijacked this 240V thread LOL. The Ford mobile charger is giving me an amber light on 115V sockets in my detached garage but gives a blue light on sockets in my back porch (which also measure >120V). I'm trying to diagnose what it doesn't like in the garage
 

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What do you mean by overload? Something tripped? What kind of meter were you using?

Based on @CHeil402 post below, that makes sense, were you trying to measure resistance between the ground pin and the box? So, first, as Chis points out, you are not dead, so probably no 120V on the box, which yes, is where I was going :). I would measure voltage ground to box first, but yes if there is not a low resistance path ground to box, that should be fixed. Assuming a proper ground to neutral connection at the main box, the charge station should not be "aware" of the box itself.
By overload, I mean my Fluke shows OL, when touching neutral or plug ground to the cover plate screw.

It's possible the ground to neutral connection is not correct at the main box (by this I assume you mean the main panel). Sorry, I'm pretty dumb when it comes to electrical stuff.
 

louibluey

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Sorry, I should have included my original post, where I hijacked this 240V thread LOL. The Ford mobile charger is giving me an amber light on 115V sockets in my detached garage but gives a blue light on sockets in my back porch (which also measure >120V). I'm trying to diagnose what it doesn't like in the garage
First, confirm that "hot" is the shorter pin. "Hot" (line voltage to neutral, line voltage to ground) is on the right, when the ground pin is down. Some outlets get wired backwards.

It's possible the ground to neutral connection is not correct at the main box (by this I assume you mean the main panel).
yes, the outlet white neutral goes back to a neutral strip in the main panel. The ground (usually bare copper in the cable) goes back to a ground connection in the panel. Only in the main panel, there is a single large connection between ground and neutral.
 
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prdude

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First, confirm that "hot" is the shorter pin, on the right, when the ground pin is down. Some outlets get wired backwards.
I can confirm that I read ~126V from the shorter pin relative to ground and to neutral
 

louibluey

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I can confirm that I read ~126V from the shorter pin relative to ground and to neutral
That is a good start. I have to run, others can take over. Check that the Fluke is still on a voltage scale and did not accidentally go into a resistance range. If you measure 120 ish volts hot to neutral (across the two slots) and then put one lead into the longer neutral slot (same ac voltage scale) and the other on the metal box (including the screw), and get an overload indication (above scale indication), that is potentially bad. (Unless the Fluke is auto ranging down to a mV scale.)
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