Proper Lifting / Jacking Up?

[rad1234]

My 2024 Mach E Premium, LFP battery is 6 months old, 5000 miles. When applying the brakes hard, it would vibrate as if the rotors were warped. I've replaced rotors on two previous vehicles, both 100,000+ miles. Anyway, the dealer said they were not too bad but did machine them and all is good. When it was up in the air I asked the tech the proper place to lift it from. I have seen the arrows pointing to the lifting areas. He said anywhere on the steel rail (the one with the holes) was OK. He placed the lifts about six inches in front of the front holes and just behind the rear ones on the rail. He did not use lifting blocks. Is it OK to do it that way?

I kept the donut from my 2010 Taurus for a temporary spare or to use when rotating the tires. It has never been used. I was going to make some blocks out of 2-inch-thick maple with a nub to fit the hole. I would use a floor jack. Do I still need the blocks?

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[Teslaeata]

Ooooooh, wait for the backlash - there’s plenty out there revving up their keyboards & going red in the face to tell you there already are posts about this?

instead of just helping you?

Between the arrows on the horizontal area outboard of those square section longitudinal rails is fine, it’s actually aluminium but that’s not to get excited about.

You don’t necessarily need any pucks, doughnuts or anything so long as the jack fits there safely & securely and can’t slip.

 

[ChasingCoral]

My 2024 Mach E Premium, LFP battery is 6 months old, 5000 miles. When applying the brakes hard, it would vibrate as if the rotors were warped. I've replaced rotors on two previous vehicles, both 100,000+ miles. Anyway, the dealer said they were not too bad but did machine them and all is good. When it was up in the air I asked the tech the proper place to lift it from. I have seen the arrows pointing to the lifting areas. He said anywhere on the steel rail (the one with the holes) was OK. He placed the lifts about six inches in front of the front holes and just behind the rear ones on the rail. He did not use lifting blocks. Is it OK to do it that way?

I kept the donut from my 2010 Taurus for a temporary spare or to use when rotating the tires. It has never been used. I was going to make some blocks out of 2-inch-thick maple with a nub to fit the hole. I would use a floor jack. Do I still need the blocks?

Here are a couple of threads discussing this, including accessory pucks for lifting:

https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/corvette-jack-pads-installed.23166/

https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/the-jack-pads-check-this-out.29483/

 

[rad1234]

Ooooooh, wait for the backlash - there’s plenty out there revving up their keyboards & going red in the face to tell you there already are posts about this?

instead of just helping you?

Between the arrows on the horizontal area outboard of those square section longitudinal rails is fine, it’s actually aluminium but that’s not to get excited about.

You don’t necessarily need any pucks, doughnuts or anything so long as the jack fits there safely & securely and can’t slip.

I have read the other posts. I was just curious why a FORD tech would not use lifting blocks when it seems to be the proper way. The pucks/donuts are more to prevent slipping? Thank you and I can handle the well-deserved backlash.

 

[HuntingPudel]

I use a floor jack to lift mine with a load spreader to lift one side of the car at a time like the stock cars get lifted on pit road (although it takes me a lot longer to lift the car than it takes them). The load spreader does not reach the zones with the arrows, but it works fine. That also leaves those places open in order to place my pucks in the holes and set car stands under the pucks. As long as you're using the steel rail that is part of the body structure, you're OK. I would not try center-jacking the car without the load spreader though. Lift one corner at a time if you are just using a floor jack and no load spreader. And do not forget the car stands. ??

 

[rad1234]

Ooooooh, wait for the backlash - there’s plenty out there revving up their keyboards & going red in the face to tell you there already are posts about this?

instead of just helping you?

Between the arrows on the horizontal area outboard of those square section longitudinal rails is fine, it’s actually aluminium but that’s not to get excited about.

You don’t necessarily need any pucks, doughnuts or anything so long as the jack fits there safely & securely and can’t slip.

Now I am really confused. I reread some of the other posts. According to a pdf from a service manual, they say not to lift on the square aluminum bar (blue), but on the flat area next to it (yellow), between the arrows highlighted in yellow.

The last method with the not symbols is the way the Ford tech guy lifted the car.

 

[zvez]

Now I am really confused. I reread some of the other posts. According to a pdf from a service manual, they say not to lift on the square aluminum bar (blue), but on the flat area next to it (yellow), between the arrows highlighted in yellow.

The last method with the not symbols is the way the Ford tech guy lifted the car.

yeah I'm with you, everything I've read is to NOT use the alum rails to lift with. As an aside to make it easier I painted the arrows that are molded into the panel red, to make them easier to find. I've been planning to buy the puck set, but just never got around to it. And the place I've gone to for a flat repair (discount tire) uses the pucks. As it stands now, to lift the car I use a floor jack and a hockey puck to lift one corner.

 

[HuntingPudel]

Now I am really confused. I reread some of the other posts. According to a pdf from a service manual, they say not to lift on the square aluminum bar (blue), but on the flat area next to it (yellow), between the arrows highlighted in yellow.

The last method with the not symbols is the way the Ford tech guy lifted the car.

The battery rails are thin aluminum. They will be crushed if you use them to lift the car. The outer steel rails where the yellow rectangles are on the drawing are part of the car’s structure and are where you should lift the car. Inspect your car for damage along the battery rails. If they are deformed, the dealer needs to get your battery case replaced at their cost since it won’t seal properly If it’s damaged. ??

 

[dtbaker61]

Now I am really confused. I reread some of the other posts. According to a pdf from a service manual, they say not to lift on the square aluminum bar (blue), but on the flat area next to it (yellow), between the arrows highlighted in yellow.

The last method with the not symbols is the way the Ford tech guy lifted the car.

yikes if that's true. you should inspect for damage.
that tube is aluminum, is part of the battery, and will crush. If crushed it will not provide proper structural support and the battery pack should be replaced.

There are a few new options as mentioned in earlier responses... but I would highly suggest you obtain pucks for your use, and anywhere you bring your MME.

https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...lift-pads-to-protect-mme-battery-rails.14455/

 

[AngryMan]

I went out and got some bright orange "safety" spray paint and hit both the jack and tow points on my Mach . No excuse for any "mistakes" by anyone working on the car .

 

[HuntingPudel]

I went out and got some bright orange "safety" spray paint and hit both the jack and tow points on my Mach . No excuse for any "mistakes" by anyone working on the car .

Reminds me that I need to get some green TOW stickers for the tow holes on my 2024. ??

 

[rreddy3]

I need to get the tow stickers too. I have the “no lift” stickers on the aluminum rails in both sides of the car … actually I have two stickers on each side … “belts and suspenders”…?

 

[ack154]

I need to get the tow stickers too. I have the “no lift” stickers on the aluminum rails in both sides of the car … actually I have two stickers on each side … “belts and suspenders”…?

I have a set of these but won't be putting them on. I really just think they are kind of poorly worded and more likely create more questions than answers. And I don't want to end up in a back and forth with some random tech on whether or not he can lift my car at all (because these stickers imply to me to not lift the car at all, ever). I realize it says ".... lifting here ...." but I don't think there's any clear indication of what that "here" location actually is. Maybe it needs some arrows pointing downward or something?

In the one or two instances where I've gone somewhere for service that I didn't 100% trust to get it right, I've printed out the images above from the manual and left them on the drivers seat after a few words with the advisor on just being cautious. I really should just make a small version and have it laminated though...

 

[zvez]

I need to get the tow stickers too. I have the “no lift” stickers on the aluminum rails in both sides of the car … actually I have two stickers on each side … “belts and suspenders”…?

where did you get those stickers?

 

[ack154]

where did you get those stickers?

Mine came with the set of AOSK jack pads.

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