Steeda Mach-E Adjustable Rear Sway Bar

[HuntingPudel]

Hey @markboris I'm just going to lube up the stock bushings. Is it possible to just take off the bushing straps and peel the bushings off the bar or are they not split bushings that have to be slipped on?

Try getting some Monoject 412 syringes. They have a pointed, curved tip. Once you get the strap off, you can wedge the tip of the syringe between the bushing and the bar, then inject some grease. My Trans Am has zerk fittinda on its suspension neaarings, but I use a marine grease on those. You could probably use that same type of grease unless the bushing is some sort of natural rubber (I haven’t had it apart, so I haven’t checked on it). In that case, you would want to use a rubber-safe lubricant (definitely stay away from any petroleum-based lubes). ??

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[Anton]

Ford dealer saying $400. That's 2 hours of labor including alignment. Is that right? An alignment is needed after changing the sway bar?

 

[connoisseurr]

Ford dealer saying $400. That's 2 hours of labor including alignment. Is that right? An alignment is needed after changing the sway bar?

The alignment isn’t necessary but in most cases you’d want to get the car on an alignment rack, which simulates it being on the ground, so you can properly adjust sway bar endlinks, when you use adjustable endlinks.

 

[kennethjk]

The alignment isn’t necessary but in most cases you’d want to get the car on an alignment rack, which simulates it being on the ground, so you can properly adjust sway bar endlinks, when you use adjustable endlinks.

does The Steeda have adjustable end inks that would require it on an alignment rack? not my area of expertise obviously

 

[connoisseurr]

does The Steeda have adjustable end inks that would require it on an alignment rack? not my area of expertise obviously

Steeda FRONT has adjustable endlinks.
Steeda REAR does NOT have adjustable endlinks.

I’m going to contact Steeda about rear adjustable endlinks for those who will be lowering their vehicles.

 

[azerik]

(doh! Wrong post)

 

[mkhuffman]

I replaced the front and rear bars and did not do a re-alignment. It has been fine. No unusual wear on the tires at all.

 

[Hammered]

Sway bars don't need alignments unless you took off or loosened something you shouldn't have.

 

[markboris]

While messing around with the rear suspension today (fitting Koni and Bilstein shocks), guess what I found????

I came across the reason why I would get a faint clunk, clunk, when going over irregular road surfaces with passengers in the rear.

I painted my sway bars black (over the Steeda Blue) and you can easily see on the bar where the black and blue paint is worn off and bare metal showing. You can also see a touch of blue on the upper body part where the bar is contacting it. Looks like I will be getting some rear adjustable end links as they need to be a bit longer than the stock ones. I'm assuming Steeda never tested this rear sway bar with a fully loaded or lowered car?

 

[kennethjk]

While messing around with the rear suspension today (fitting Koni and Bilstein shocks), guess what I found????

I came across the reason why I would get a faint clunk, clunk, when going over irregular road surfaces with passengers in the rear.

I painted my sway bars black (over the Steeda Blue) and you can easily see on the bar where the black and blue paint is worn off and bare metal showing. You can also see a touch of blue on the upper body part where the bar is contacting it. Looks like I will be getting some rear adjustable end links as they need to be a bit longer than the stock ones. I'm assuming Steeda never tested this rear sway bar with a fully loaded or lowered car?

Wow, pretty disappointing. I kept my original ones. Hopefully I don’t have to put them back on.

did this cause any “real damage”

 

[Anton]

I just looked at my rear sway bar and didn't see any damage. Never heard any clanging either. My wife and kid always ride in the back.



 

[markboris]

Wow, pretty disappointing. I kept my original ones. Hopefully I don’t have to put them back on.

did this cause any “real damage”

No Ken, did not and will not cause any real damage. It is just barely contacting the edge of a body part which is really no big deal. There is no way I would put the OEM bars back on. Both the Steeda front and rear bars made a substantial difference in the handling and minor difference in the ride and have no plans to ever change it. I have lowered my car about an inch with the H&R lowering springs. That in combination of having a car full of people and luggage in the back is what I am sure caused this to happen. Easily fixed by getting a slightly longer end link. When I am done messing with the suspension I will check what length I need but it won't be much.

I just looked at my rear sway bar and didn't see any damage. Never heard any clanging either. My wife and kid always ride in the back.

I wouldn't expect you to have any as you haven't lowered your car as I have (even though it was only an inch). Glad you checked it out though to see if there were any issues. ?

 

[JohnFoxeSheets]

Easily fixed by getting a slightly longer end link.

If only replacing the rear end links was easier! I recall that was by far the hardest part of the whole job...

 

[Hammered]

Ferrari's new SUV car thing comes in at ~4400lbs and doesn't use sway bars at all. The shocks have little electric motors in them and it keeps the car completely flat in cornering. They decided against corner lean-in as they said it was unnatural feeling. Of course the shocks look expensive as hell. They operate at 30hz and are apparently fast enough to dip in and out of pot holes (20mm of shock articulation at the shock, probably closer to 28mm at the wheel itself) though 'baby' potholes by the articulation range -- no travel speed mentioned on the baby pothole capability. Ditching sway bars w/ an active suspension would be badass though.

Skip forward some...

so nice of them to join the club

Sucks about the steeda sway bar @markboris -- you'd think they would have tested that better since they're also known for their lowering springs. How do the factory magnarides perform w/ the springs?

 

[markboris]

If only replacing the rear end links was easier! I recall that was by far the hardest part of the whole job...

They are a pain because of the tight area you have to loosen and tighten the nuts to the end link. Some patience and special tools make it a little easier.

This was all my fault anyway. I knew when lowering a car you should recheck other suspension components and one of the first would be the sway bars. I've ordered adjustable end links for the rear and will lower the end of that bar about 1/2" which will then never contact that body part again. I checked the front and all is ok there. I readjusted one end link on the front to relieve the slight bit of tension on the bar that must have occurred after lowering it.

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