Unplugging L2 Charger After Remote Start

[SnBGC]

Ok, call me stupid. The first time I remote started my car when it was plugged into my L2 charger, I just unplugged my L2 charger before driving. Well, the car did NOT like that. The charge ring went orange, a box whining about a charge fault came up on the screen and so on. Fortunately, a key cycle and all was good. So, since then, I had been doing remote stop before unplugging the L2 charger. Today, I said to myself, “I wonder if pushing the charger release button will work?” And sure enough, car was remote started while plugged into the L2 charger, I pushed the charger release button, then disconnected the charge coupler, and the charge ring went to its normal color (blue? White?) Got in the cabin and the Press Start to Drive prompt was on the IP.
Maybe everyone else knew but I’m happy now ?

You shouldn't have to do anything special. I have remote started my car dozens of times and have unplugged without issue. Have you browsed through the TSB section to see if any apply to your symptoms?

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[louibluey]

That is true, but if you look at your charger you'll see it doesn't stop. It just continues to charge. Blue flashy = charging

Agree, I see the same thing. My understanding is that L2 pushing the button on the J1772 handle is all that should be needed. Its been a while since I looked at EVSE, but I am pretty sure that button is also a switch read directly or indirectly (the resistor divider string) by the EVSE.

 

[DevSecOps]

Agree, I see the same thing. My understanding is that L2 pushing the button on the J1772 handle is all that should be needed. Its been a while since I looked at EVSE, but I am pretty sure that button is also a switch read directly or indirectly (the resistor divider string) by the EVSE.

Correct. The button on the handle to the EVSE is all you need.

In actuality, at EA you really only need to push the button on the handle as well. Pushing the button will stop DCFC and unlock the handle. But of course you could also use the coupler unlock.

 

[Jimrpa]

Correct. The button on the handle to the EVSE is all you need.

In actuality, at EA you really only need to push the button on the handle as well. Pushing the button will stop DCFC and unlock the handle. But of course you could also use the coupler unlock.

The few times I’ve used EA, I was able to remove the coupler by unplugging it with the coupler button after stopping the charging session at the charger.

 

[CHeil402]

Some chargers I recommend pushing the release button on the handle firmly and waiting about a half second before pulling it out to avoid this issue.

For L1/L2 charging at home, when you push the plastic latch button on the EVSE plug, that sends a signal to your car that you're about to unplug the charger. You can confirm this, because if you're actively charging you'll see the LED ring go from pulsing blue (charging) to steady blue (plugged in, not charging) and you can hear a relay clicking inside the car allowing it to be unplugged safely (not unplugged when under load).

In theory this should happen fast enough so unplugging it won't cause a problem, but it certainly can if you go really fast. It's best practice to push and hold the unlatch button and wait until you hear the relay click in the car and the blue LED ring stops pulsing (about 1 second) and then unplug it.

For DC fast charging, the plug does lock to the car because unplugging 150 kW under load is MUCH worse than unplugging 11 kW under load. Therefore the plug physically cannot (or should not) be able to be removed under load until the DC charger stops (for example at EA by pushing the stop button on the DC charger screen) or by pushing the unlock button on the car in the LED ring which in turn tells the DC fast charger that you want to stop the charge session to unplug.

Essentially, you never want to unplug anything under load. While this is bad at L2, it's not nearly as dangerous as doing that under 150 kW would be, hence why L2 doesn't lock to the car. But best practice for L1/L2 would be to push and hold the button until you hear the relay click before unplugging.

 

[breeves002]

For L1/L2 charging at home, when you push the plastic latch button on the EVSE plug, that sends a signal to your car that you're about to unplug the charger. You can confirm this, because if you're actively charging you'll see the LED ring go from pulsing blue (charging) to steady blue (plugged in, not charging) and you can hear a relay clicking inside the car allowing it to be unplugged safely (not unplugged when under load).

In theory this should happen fast enough so unplugging it won't cause a problem, but it certainly can if you go really fast. It's best practice to push and hold the unlatch button and wait until you hear the relay click in the car and the blue LED ring stops pulsing (about 1 second) and then unplug it.

For DC fast charging, the plug does lock to the car because unplugging 150 kW under load is MUCH worse than unplugging 11 kW under load. Therefore the plug physically cannot (or should not) be able to be removed under load until the DC charger stops (for example at EA by pushing the stop button on the DC charger screen) or by pushing the unlock button on the car in the LED ring which in turn tells the DC fast charger that you want to stop the charge session to unplug.

Essentially, you never want to unplug anything under load. While this is bad at L2, it's not nearly as dangerous as doing that under 150 kW would be, hence why L2 doesn't lock to the car. But best practice for L1/L2 would be to push and hold the button until you hear the relay click before unplugging.

Yes this is what I was referring too...just didn't feel like writing it out lol. Thanks for the extra info.

 

[KevinS]

I always hit the unlock button before removing the charger. That may only apply to DC fast charging or whatever but I've just made it a habit and don't even think about it now.

 

[DevSecOps]

I always hit the unlock button before removing the charger. That may only apply to DC fast charging or whatever but I've just made it a habit and don't even think about it now.

Do you also put the car in park before turning it off?

 

[KevinS]

Do you also put the car in park before turning it off?

Mmmm, don't get the snark, sorry. Unless you think I'm referring to the unlock for the car versus the unlock for the charger (one with blue ring.)

 

[DevSecOps]

Mmmm, don't get the snark, sorry.

It's just one of the many things that people think they need to do, but don't need to do. Pushing the coupler unlock for L2 does nothing. Putting your car into park when turning off the car is also something you don't need to do. Per the owners manual the coupler unlock does nothing on L2 and per the owners manual turning off the car automatically puts it in park.

Unless you think I'm referring to the unlock for the car versus the unlock for the charger (one with blue ring.)

We are talking about the one with the blue/white ring. It doesn't do anything for L2 charging.

 

[benk016]

Do you also put the car in park before turning it off?

I don't! It does it automatically when you hit the power button. lol

 

[KevinS]

It's just one of the many things that people think they need to do, but don't need to do. Pushing the coupler unlock for L2 does nothing. Putting your car into park when turning off the car is also something you don't need to do. Per the owners manual the coupler unlock does nothing on L2 and per the owners manual turning off the car automatically puts it in park.

Oh, OK. Old habits die hard I guess. I do it the one way, and it works in every situation or car I drive. I lose upwards of 5 seconds so I'm not losing sleep over it.

 

[ShadowCVL]

Always wait after pressing the latch. You SHOULD hear a click, thats when its safe to disconnect. When you just press and yank the charger and car dont have time to communicate to cease the connection and the contactor on the charger is still closed and sending voltage to the car. when you press the switch it tells the charger and the care to disconnect using the 2 smaller conductors they do communicate rudementarily. I Push, wait for click, then pull. IF you dont wait for the click there can be an arc.

 

[imstriker]

Ok, call me stupid. The first time I remote started my car when it was plugged into my L2 charger, I just unplugged my L2 charger before driving. Well, the car did NOT like that. The charge ring went orange, a box whining about a charge fault came up on the screen and so on. Fortunately, a key cycle and all was good. So, since then, I had been doing remote stop before unplugging the L2 charger. Today, I said to myself, “I wonder if pushing the charger release button will work?” And sure enough, car was remote started while plugged into the L2 charger, I pushed the charger release button, then disconnected the charge coupler, and the charge ring went to its normal color (blue? White?) Got in the cabin and the Press Start to Drive prompt was on the IP.
Maybe everyone else knew but I’m happy now ?

I had this problem about once a week both with remote start and just unplugging before recent updates. I have not seen it since then.

 

[RickMachE]

The few times I’ve used EA, I was able to remove the coupler by unplugging it with the coupler button after stopping the charging session at the charger.

You've been lucky. Often stopping the EA session at the charger results in either an error in the car, or an error on the EA app. We had that more than once, and one day it locked up our EA app account for the entire day.

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