My 2016 Escape is 3 months away from 5 years old and has 151,000 on it. I drive about 500 miles a week just back and forth to work. Looking forward to saving on gas, and a more fun drive.
That's fine as long as they actually tie what they charge with how many miles you drive, or charge you the average of what an efficient passenger cars (most efficient cars/SUVs that are not subject to the surcharge) pay in gas taxes per year. However, certain states seems to consider EV drivers the wealthy, and charge an unreasonable amount.
It is unfortunate that there's no good way to mimic the (approximate) road usage correlation that the gas tax has. But since that can't be don't with a fixed fee, the fair way to do it is match it to the average that the comparable weight ICE vehicle pays at average miles. (Same impact on road usage and wear and tear.)
Wouldn't the fair way be tolls?
My Juicebox 40
Yes, but tolls on all the main roads and highways would be a costly undertaking. And they have their own issues. Locals that frequent toll roads often have accounts and transponders, but visitors become a real problem.
Thanks for that. My Grizzl-E is arriving today. I wanted to get the Ford charger for the tighter integration, but got tired of waiting. And with double cost I just could not justify it. My only decision right now is the wiring, and if I should put a 50 amp breaker in the box that can handle the Grizzl-E at 40 amps, or do 60 amps (with heavier and more costly wire). There's also until the end of the month still $25 off the Grizzl-E by using the code INSIDEEVS7 (which basically can get you the 24 foot cable at $5 below the unit with the 18' cable).I think it was questioned here whether the Ford Connected Charge Station had adjustable power levels. According to their (maybe updated) Mach-E site/Ford Connected Charge Station info page, it does indeed have adjustable power levels. Doesn't indicate if it's mechanically switched on the station, or software based.
At $799 MSRP though, I'll still be going with a Grizzl-E personally.
Well it does say it’s to ensure compatibility with your home electrical system. Considering the consequences of drawing too much current through a circuit, I don’t think any software-based limiter would be an acceptable safety device...it’d have to be hardware-based. Software is buggy.Doesn't indicate if it's mechanically switched on the station, or software based.
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My Juicebox can go to a much higher current than the breakers its connected to (almost double). I've had it set for the appropriate level in software and never have the breakers tripped ( :thunk:...what was that noise??)
Setting the device to draw less that the circuit allows would never be a problem. That's like plugging a 60w light bulb in instead of 100w... it just draws less.
The Juicebox I have doesn't detect any current: It has a remote and you can increase/decrease the amount of current that it indicates to the car (I think its in 2 amp steps--been a few years since I've adjusted it). It stores the value in non-volitale memory so that it survives power cycles.
