Zero Warning... the recall software update did not work! SECOND HVBJB FAILURE. Stop Safely Now my sequel.

Burnsy8787

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Both of my failures happened right in the 4,000 to 5,000 mile range.

So, if you have an early design HVBJB and a GT and GTPE then be prepared for it to fail.

These really should be proactively replaced. The software doesn't always work (my case). Being left stranded somewhere is extremely unsafe.
I'm kind of late to the party on this one but is this mainly related to GT's?

I'm at 22,000 miles on my extended range AWD and bought mine the day it got to the dealer in late June 2021, so likely manufactured sometime in May. Have done fast charging dozens of times in the last 1.5 years on roadtrips with no issues. Hoping I've lucked out.
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Electric Goat

Electric Goat

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I'm kind of late to the party on this one but is this mainly related to GT's?

I'm at 22,000 miles on my extended range AWD and bought mine the day it got to the dealer in late June 2021, so likely manufactured sometime in May. Have done fast charging dozens of times in the last 1.5 years on roadtrips with no issues. Hoping I've lucked out.

It's my understanding that this affects every single Mach-E but GTs draw significantly more power through the system under acceleration than a select or a premium would. GTs are failing at a significantly faster rate because of this. As a driver of a premium , you may never see a failure or it may happen further down the line.
 

benk016

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Based on what I'm seeing, I wouldn't be surprised if every single GT doesn't have this issue at some point.
 
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Based on what I'm seeing, I wouldn't be surprised if every single GT doesn't have this issue at some point.
Quite a few knowledgeable people on this forum, like @DevSecOps, have stated that this will probably hit every single one eventually.
 

DevSecOps

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Quite a few knowledgeable people on this forum, like @DevSecOps, have stated that this will probably hit every single one eventually.
Funny you quoted Ben, because his went out yesterday. I think we all pretty much agree that all GTs will eventually succumb to failure.
 


voxel

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So this was a second failure of the non-beefier HVBJB?

I have a chance to trade in my may built (a few days before the new part was used) GTPE for a MME with a newer HVBJB... should I? It does sounds like every single older HVBJB will fail on the GT eventually.
 

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So this was a second failure of the non-beefier HVBJB?

I have a chance to trade in my may built (a few days before the new part was used) GTPE for a MME with a newer HVBJB... should I? It does sounds like every single older HVBJB will fail on the GT eventually.
I personally think trading in would be a huge time sink just for an HVBJB. If you're really that concerned about it pay $1500 to replace it. That might be cheaper than the time investment and possible money loss on the trade.
 

jznd400

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Where's that chain from the flatbed winch hooked into? That's what worries me in your photo -- is that connected to the proper winch points in the front?
The car was parked nose in, so it was winched backwards out of the garage. The chain is hooked into the rear suspension arms. I showed the tow driver a color printout of where NOT to hook to avoid damaging the battery and warned him of the dire financial consequences. He said he had towed a couple of Mach Es already (!) and understood not to go anywhere near the battery. I thought the suspension arms would be OK as that's where most of my prior tow experiences (ICE cars) had been hooked...?
 

HuntingPudel

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The car was parked nose in, so it was winched backwards out of the garage. The chain is hooked into the rear suspension arms. I showed the tow driver a color printout of where NOT to hook to avoid damaging the battery and warned him of the dire financial consequences. He said he had towed a couple of Mach Es already (!) and understood not to go anywhere near the battery. I thought the suspension arms would be OK as that's where most of my prior tow experiences (ICE cars) had been hooked...?
Ford doesn’t specifically say not to use the suspension, but it’s also not officially sanctioned. Probably OK for a smooth hard surface, more than likely not at all good on a soft surface. ??
 

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I personally think trading in would be a huge time sink just for an HVBJB. If you're really that concerned about it pay $1500 to replace it. That might be cheaper than the time investment and possible money loss on the trade.
Or just wait and if it fails get it replaced for free.

I wouldn’t spend my own money and time in the shop on purpose.
 

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So this was a second failure of the non-beefier HVBJB?

I have a chance to trade in my may built (a few days before the new part was used) GTPE for a MME with a newer HVBJB... should I? It does sounds like every single older HVBJB will fail on the GT eventually.
I would just hammer your GTPE a little bit like it should be driven, and you'll get the part recall you deserve in no time.

Totally not worth trading in your car to get them to replace the faulty part.
 

scoopman

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The car was parked nose in, so it was winched backwards out of the garage. The chain is hooked into the rear suspension arms. I showed the tow driver a color printout of where NOT to hook to avoid damaging the battery and warned him of the dire financial consequences. He said he had towed a couple of Mach Es already (!) and understood not to go anywhere near the battery. I thought the suspension arms would be OK as that's where most of my prior tow experiences (ICE cars) had been hooked...?
I wouldn't do that next time, you might find yourself with lots of companies pointing fingers at each other to pay for your new expensive suspension arms. This is one of the reasons I got a rear hidden tow hitch -- I now have some reasonably safe holes to yank slowly on my car from the rear.
 

Aye Aye Ron

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If it takes a while for the tow, you'll quite likely also have a dead 12V battery. Spend the time on youtube, looking up how to pull your frunk trim out. The tow truck operators may be scared of doing so. Youtube and my willingness to rip parts off the car is the only reason my failure (not yet clear what exactly failed) got towed successfully. I looked up 3 minutes of youtube on my phone and did it in the dark (dead parking lot light where I was).

If you have a 12V jump pack, make sure it is charged and take it with you. The tow operators pack jumped me to get in e-tow twice (once onto the truck, once off the truck) but was dead-dead and could not jump me to get it in park once I rolled off the flatbed. My friend's car, doing shuttle service for me, was the final jump to put mine in park.

Know where your e-tow via the settings menu is, in case your shifter is locked (likely, given your symptom). I believe it was settings -> vehicle -> scroll down, the entry below "reset EV driving data" was "press and hold to enter emergency tow mode."

You can DM the FoMoCo you tagged the thread to get a case started. To save you a round trip with them, include your dealer name, VIN, your full name, the vehicle owner's full name and your relation to them (if applicable), your zip code, email, mobile phone number, mileage (fordpass has this, save your 12V).

Edit: you probably know all this, but in case you didn't. Also for the poor saps who stumble upon it via google who haven't been on the forums before.
You may not have to mess with the trim to get to a set of 12v terminals, I know my GTPE and Premium has a set of jump wires tucked behind an access port on the front bumper. Just to the left, and below the 'grill' area there is a pop out panel that looks like a tow hook cover. Push in the top right corner to open it and there are 2 12v leads to jump ther car.
 

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I personally think trading in would be a huge time sink just for an HVBJB. If you're really that concerned about it pay $1500 to replace it. That might be cheaper than the time investment and possible money loss on the trade.
Is that a reasonable estimate of the cost? If it is I would consider doing it because it's my wife and kids sharing the car and I could take a pass on the drama.
 
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mkhuffman

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You may not have to mess with the trim to get to a set of 12v terminals, I know my GTPE and Premium has a set of jump wires tucked behind an access port on the front bumper. Just to the left, and below the 'grill' area there is a pop out panel that looks like a tow hook cover. Push in the top right corner to open it and there are 2 12v leads to jump ther car.
Those wires are only used to open the frunk in the event your LVB fails. You cannot jump the car with them.

Many of us have added holes in the cover above the jumper terminals to allow easy access to jump start the LVB. It was one of the first mods I did to my car when I brought it home. Even the dealer used it when they did FDRS updates, which is nice because every time you remove those covers you are likely to lose a clip. They fall right off...
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