2025 Frunk Review! By a Frunk Lover!

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Jimrpa

Jimrpa

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That's actually worthy of a trip to a dealer with a 2025. Or perhaps @Gloff knows, although if I were him, I'd avoid this thread. :p
I’m sorry to say that I’m 99.9% sure you’re not getting a rollaboard in there. All dimensions have been reduced, and my Tumi rollaboard just fit, with maybe an inch on each side.

I would be overjoyed if someone with a 2025 would prove me wrong (with pics). Barring that, I can only hope that Ford will quickly decontent the stupid heat pump (i can’t believe that I’m actually encouraging Ford to remove a feature ?)
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The only thing in my frunk is some mouse repellent sachets to keep the damn mice out of the wiring.(they ate the engine wiring harness of my Mini Cooper $$$$). It’s smaller than the prior models because Ford gave you more energy efficient heat pump heater for the cold weather rather than the prior restive heater which sucked quite a bit of power in the winter. I would happily trade a smaller frunk for the heat pump.
There is still a 5 kW resistive heater in the heating circuit. It's just not used unless the temps drop too low where the heat pump can no longer output any heat.

About this whole frunk thing, I just bought my '24 a few months ago and could have easily waited for a '25 but even though I don't often use the frunk I want to have one when I need it. That and I would rather have a resistive heater knowing it will instantly work no matter what temp and did not want the shifter on the column.
 
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Tampamike

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Probably to the first two. Lord knows about BMW. I'd guess no. Maybe they'll sell a frunk subscription. :rolleyes:

There's an additional complication unique to me. I live in the Middle of (bleep) Nowhere, Hawaii. There is no longer any mobile Tesla service on this island. Brand Elmo won't even deliver here anymore, nor will they lift a finger to assist you in shipping your Elmo mobile to another island. Rivian is finally building a service center in Honolulu, but has no plans for mobile service outside of Oahu. They make you sign an acknowledgment that you're on your own in this state and plan on continuing that for all other islands once the service center opens. 1/3 of the state lives somewhere other than Oahu with 1/2 of that 1/3 living on the Big Island. Lucid has zero presence in the state. Genesis has an ICE presence only. Polestar has no presence (Yes, there are Volvo dealers here). Audi, VW, Porsche, and Jaguar are Oahu only and don't support vehicles elsewhere. That leaves: Honda, Toyota, Nissan, Ford, Kia, Hyundai, GM/Chevrolet (NOT Cadillac), and BMW. The Ford dealer has changed its tune dramatically since it was sold and the various sales restrictions expired. So of those, Ford and Kia are the most EV committed, with Kia out in front. In my "UPS flattened my mach-e" hypothetical, I'd stick with a "small dishcloth folded correctly fits" sized frunk over a literal shelf. I'll just try not to annoy the UPS trucks for now. ;)
Maybe it’s just me, but wouldn’t Hawaii be a perfect place for an almost, total EV fleet? Distances to drive are small, plenty of sunshine for solar panels on roofs, no real cold weather for most of the population. Would that just strain the electrical grid too much or is it just static inertia?
 

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I can only hope that Ford will quickly decontent the stupid heat pump (i can’t believe that I’m actually encouraging Ford to remove a feature ?)
Much like Neil Young's title "From Hank to Hendrix" we've alliteratively gone "From Hood Pins to Heat Pumps". This in a thread you originally started about frunks. Love it!

I have a question to further diverge: The previous PTC heater must have been retained in order to provide heat when temps drop to the point the HP isn't delivering it effectively, right? If so, is it the same kW capacity as before and what is the control logic? (On below a certain ambient, in addition to/instead of, etc.). I haven't seen this answered elsewhere but admittedly haven't searched, so I'm prepared to take the requisite abuse if @Mach-Lee or some other guru has answered in another thread.

Edit... Gee, just as I post this I see I'm too slow. Thanks for reading my mind, @markboris .
 
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Much like Neil Young's title "From Hank to Hendrix" we've alliteratively gone "From Hood Pins to Heat Pumps". This in a thread you originally started about frunks. Love it!

I have a question to further diverge: The previous PTC heater must have been retained in order to provide heat when temps drop to the point the HP isn't delivering it effectively, right? If so, is it the same kW capacity as before and what is the control logic? (On below a certain ambient, in addition to/instead of, etc.). I haven't seen this answered elsewhere but admittedly haven't searched, so I'm prepared to take the requisite abuse if @Mach-Lee or some other guru has answered in another thread.

Edit... Gee, just as I post this I see I'm too slow. Thanks for reading my mind, @markboris .
I am going to guess that the control logic is similar to a residential heat pump. When the system can’t keep up with the demand for heat, the electric resistance heater will cut in. The added disadvantage that @markboris pointed out is that you no longer have “instant heat”. Instead, you’ll be waiting for the heat pump to begin producing lukewarm air.
 


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Much like Neil Young's title "From Hank to Hendrix" we've alliteratively gone "From Hood Pins to Heat Pumps". This in a thread you originally started about frunks. Love it!

I have a question to further diverge: The previous PTC heater must have been retained in order to provide heat when temps drop to the point the HP isn't delivering it effectively, right? If so, is it the same kW capacity as before and what is the control logic? (On below a certain ambient, in addition to/instead of, etc.). I haven't seen this answered elsewhere but admittedly haven't searched, so I'm prepared to take the requisite abuse if @Mach-Lee or some other guru has answered in another thread.

Edit... Gee, just as I post this I see I'm too slow. Thanks for reading my mind, @markboris .
The previous heat resistive heater was 7 kw in the later models but now it is 5 kw in the '25's. As of now, I don't think we know the exact temp at which the resistive heater takes over from the heat pump. However I may be wrong and Lee would know better than I.
 

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We don’t notice much delay in heating in our 2024 Lightning with heat pump vs our previous 2022 Lightning. Then again we always precondition the cabin in the winter.

In any case even with the heat pump it’s pushing out warm air much faster than a cold ICE vehicle.

No issues with heat in my current Tesla with heat pump either.
 

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<SNIP>
About this whole frunk thing, I just bought my '24 a few months ago and could have easily waited for a '25 but even though I don't often use the frunk I want to have one when I need it. That and I would rather have a resistive heater knowing it will instantly work no matter what temp and did not want the shifter on the column.
Damn, other than not using the frunk much and color choice Mark and I think too much alike. I don’t know if that’s good or bad. ??
 
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We don’t notice much delay in heating in our 2024 Lightning with heat pump vs our previous 2022 Lightning. Then again we always precondition the cabin in the winter.

In any case even with the heat pump it’s pushing out warm air much faster than a cold ICE vehicle.

No issues with heat in my current Tesla with heat pump either.
I want to get in my car and GO. I don’t want to have to worry about preconditioning or anything. I used to do that (remote start) with my escape to warm the cabin in the wintertime (when I remembered to do it).
 

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I’m sorry to say that I’m 99.9% sure you’re not getting a rollaboard in there. All dimensions have been reduced, and my Tumi rollaboard just fit, with maybe an inch on each side.

I would be overjoyed if someone with a 2025 would prove me wrong (with pics). Barring that, I can only hope that Ford will quickly decontent the stupid heat pump (i can’t believe that I’m actually encouraging Ford to remove a feature ?)
haha ?. Encouraging feature removal.

I’m not necessarily a frunk lover as much as I am a space lover. If ford gave me a frubby ( front cubby) and added space to the trunk, I’d be happy. Maybe even happier. Next generation, maybe.

I use the frunk on road trips with the family. One carry-on sized suitcase goes in the frunk and the bit of space left over stores bits and bobs. I can put an extension cord on top, adapters along the side, and that sort of thing. It’s like a bonus room.

Like some others, the heat pump isn’t worth the trade, especially when space configuration doesn’t change. And especially when I already own the vehicle. Still, inquiring minds look forward to “will it fit” reviews!
 

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Maybe it’s just me, but wouldn’t Hawaii be a perfect place for an almost, total EV fleet? Distances to drive are small, plenty of sunshine for solar panels on roofs, no real cold weather for most of the population. Would that just strain the electrical grid too much or is it just static inertia?
You'd think wouldn’t you Mike?

Distance wise, many folks on this island are driving 200 miles per work day. A higher percentage are doing 100+ per work day and it’s hilly. My 100 mile round trips to Kona take between 26% and 30% soc on my 21 awd er. I average a bit over 2 miles per kWh on the return with the last 15 miles at 1.2 miles per kWh. The distance around this island on the belt highway is 230 miles. That will include multiple climbs to 4500 ft from sea level. If you cut through the middle of the island you get a long climb to 7000 ft.

EVs can be a reality check out here. The electric infrastructure can be a huge limiting factor. Some areas are running on pre-WWII wiring, and the upgrade cost is not just going from 100 amp service to 200. It‘s wiring the whole neighborhood and going from 75 amp service to 200. We’re talking low six digits sometimes.

On the neighbor islands, there are additional issues. Hawaii Island has a grid system that vanished many decades ago on the mainland. Frequencies and voltages are rarely stable. Our place is essentially off-grid, I can see on the control panel where our pve system has kicked the grid off several times per day due to voltage issues.

That brings me to my primary point: the public charging structure here is abysmal. One NEVI charger was installed in Honolulu near downtown (on the waterfront at the working pier area), one on Maui at a ride-share parking lot. The 7 required for Hawaii island were never built because the state wanted to build them all nearly simultaneously, with a single contract awarded. Unfortunately, they had location issues with what would have been the southernmost DCFC in the nation. They kept delaying the construction until they found themselves in Trump’s second term. That leaves just the 4 pilot program DCFC units on the island. All are 50 kW EFACEC units that have issues with the Mach-e (and other cars).

Finally, dealers are resistant because of the fear of new and more pertinently the profit margin.

If you can charge at home it’s a good deal beyond the 51¢ per kWh electric price. But if you have to drive around the island with side trips, take the gas car.

Oahu is different. It has 2/3 of the state population. Distances are smaller (the belt highway is 112 miles) but far more people are competing for limited resources.

The bright note is that EV registrations are up 17% over last year, which was up by 13% over the previous year.

Edited for clarity
 
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I’m not sure what the climate is like in Menlo Park, CA, but in suburban Philadelphia, we will get temperatures at or below 32 degrees F, which means the heat pump isn’t going to be very efficient anyway. I’d have preferred they just toss in a slightly larger resistance heater and hold off on any heat pump until they could implement and package it properly.
Here in menlo park, ca, i spend 16 percent of my range getting air from 55 degrees to 67 degrees. I have no idea what would happen in 32 degree weather.

I will hold my judgement on the heat pump until i see it measured. I would not assume anything, heat pumps are getting more efficient at lower temps...
 

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The Mach E frunk hood is a tank in comparison to the tinfoil frunk hood of the Tesla Model 3 (the only one I've used). And you simply drop it to close it. The Tesla M3 hood on the other hand will not close without slamming it and always feels like it's going to fall off. And that frunk is also tiny. Sad that Ford has decided to make the Mach E's frunk similarly tiny.
I didn't mind closing the Model 3 hood manually. At least I know it was properly closed/locked.

I've dropped the Mach-E hood and it wouldn't closed/locked itself. Am I missing something ?
 

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I didn't mind closing the Model 3 hood manually. At least I know it was properly closed/locked.

I've dropped the Mach-E hood and it wouldn't closed/locked itself. Am I missing something ?
I actually misstated how I close the hood. I give it a good push downwards from a height of about 12-18” and it fully latches. Note I’m not slamming the hood. This works the majority of the time - the only times it doesn’t is if I was too gentle in pushing it or if there is too much in the frunk.
 
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I actually misstated how I close the hood. I give it a good push downwards from a height of about 12-18” and it fully latches. Note I’m not slamming the hood. This works the majority of the time - the only times it doesn’t is if I was too gentle in pushing it or if there is too much in the frunk.
One thing I noted on the 2025 Mustang Mach-E I saw, was that the hood was much easier to close.
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