Adding a real subwoofer w/amp to your Mach-E

[nathan624]

JL bass knob does not work. Oh well, worth a shot.

The Rockville one is just terrible. The max value is just max gain on the amp. I thought it would max at what I set the gain to be.

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[azerik]

I finally broke down and pulled the 6x9 'sub' out of the rear and attempted to find any info on it. What I was able to find is that mine was made in Feb 2004. yup. Sounds like B&O had buckets of "what about those 6x9's Gunter said were going to be amazing, where should we dump those?"
Still no wattage info. Though in hind sight I should have just used a multi meter to at least pin down the ohms. (only matters if you are trying to toss a non-powered sub in there and use the fa tory amps power. i.e. 8inch Bazzoka tube or the likes) Grr. Might pull it back out next week.

Usually I'd pull the stuff out of the trunk and start fiberglassing in my own enclosure then building a false floor, but I just don't have that level of time/drive anymore.

 

[Sillybibbles]

I have the route 1, non b&o system, which to my understanding has no amp (or sub) amd hence no signal to grab in the hatch.

From the Ford website the non-B&O system does seem to have no back sub, but I'm not sure of an easier way to get to the signal than dig into the door. It would be highly preferable to tap somewhere else.

 

[Sillybibbles]

Yesterday I installed a Infinity Baselink mini under the driver seat. Sort of. I don't think this is a good permanent location, as people who sit there will have to put their feet on the subwoofer and I had to remove the floor mat. I am using Velcro (the hooks) to get it to stick to the carpet.

It sounds great, and I especially like how it vibrates the seat. That is why I wanted to put it under the seat. Ideally I will find a way to mount it under the front of the seat, but I have not figured that out yet.

By the way, I was using the front speaker outputs to drive the subwoofer and there must be a serious low frequency cutoff happening to protect those speakers. So I ran a new wire from the subwoofer output and it sounds much better. I should have known better than to use the front speaker outputs, but in case someone else thinks to do the same thing, don't. Use the subwoofer output.

That high-pass crossover is a problem for any of us trying to add a sub to a non-B&O system :-(. I'd love to hear from anyone who has managed to get a signal from a non-B&O system.

 

[Mach-Jay]

That high-pass crossover is a problem for any of us trying to add a sub to a non-B&O system :-(. I'd love to hear from anyone who has managed to get a signal from a non-B&O system.

I did it twice (2 cars) from the door sill - passenger side only. It is EASY and sounds GREAT.

 

[SXBB]

I posted a couple of months ago about my 10" sub running hot after my HVJB replacement. Fast forward to today when my autosound guy finally got the ACS112LG-TW1 as a replacement. The 10" has been back ordered for the past few months and he found the ACS112LG-TW1 in stock at another dealer and grabbed it for me. I was stoked to upgrade to the 12". The only problem is that it doesn't fit in the space that the 10" one easily fit in. I'm embarrassed to say that tehy told me it didn't fit and it didn't occur to me to try to close the flooring panel over it anyway. Looking at the photo MarkBoris posted in #14, it looks like maybe it doesn't go down in the recess like the 10" one did. It's impossible to tell from the photo with all of the other stuff packed around the sub. Can anyone tell me how the 12" version fits?

Thanks

 

[markboris]

I posted a couple of months ago about my 10" sub running hot after my HVJB replacement. Fast forward to today when my autosound guy finally got the ACS112LG-TW1 as a replacement. The 10" has been back ordered for the past few months and he found the ACS112LG-TW1 in stock at another dealer and grabbed it for me. I was stoked to upgrade to the 12". The only problem is that it doesn't fit in the space that the 10" one easily fit in. I'm embarrassed to say that tehy told me it didn't fit and it didn't occur to me to try to close the flooring panel over it anyway. Looking at the photo MarkBoris posted in #14, it looks like maybe it doesn't go down in the recess like the 10" one did. It's impossible to tell from the photo with all of the other stuff packed around the sub. Can anyone tell me how the 12" version fits?

Thanks

Hi Bruce, yes the 12” does fit. I installed it in the premium I had and also have one in the GT I have now. There are quite a few other members that also have the JL 12”. You do have to remove the two studs that are coming up from the bottom that were securing the styrofoam piece for the sub to sit down in there. Also the adjustable floor needs to stay in the upper position. It‘s a snug fit but it works.

 

[Kmp14]

Hi Bruce, yes the 12” does fit. I installed it in the premium I had and also have one in the GT I have now. There are quite a few other members that also have the JL 12”. You do have to remove the two studs that are coming up from the bottom that were securing the styrofoam piece for the sub to sit down in there. Also the adjustable floor needs to stay in the upper position. It‘s a snug fit but it works.

Yup, I also have the 12" installed in my '23 Premium. It is almost snaps in, perfect fit. I tilt the side toward the rear of the car in first, then "snap" the the other side down into place. As mentioned, you do have to keep the floor in the upper position, but it otherwise fits great, and sounds great!

 

[SXBB]

Hi MarkBoris,

When you say remove the 2 studs, do you mean use a cutting wheel to cut off the 2 threaded screws that stick up from the floor? I peeled back the carpet from the sub floor and that's all I see that could in any way impede the sub from being pushed all of the way in. When it's installed, does it sit flush with the bottom of the compartment?

Thanks

 

[markboris]

Hi MarkBoris,

When you say remove the 2 studs, do you mean use a cutting wheel to cut off the 2 threaded screws that stick up from the floor? I peeled back the carpet from the sub floor and that's all I see that could in any way impede the sub from being pushed all of the way in. When it's installed, does it sit flush with the bottom of the compartment?

Thanks

Yes, cut those off and the sub will fit flat down at the bottom

 

[SXBB]

Hey MarkBoris & Kmp14!

Thanks so much for the extra guidance! Thanks to you both I was able to get the 12" wedged in there. It sounds & Feels Excellent!

Thanks Again,

Bruce

 

[Jugnutts]

Just took delivery of my GTPE a couple weeks ago and one of the first things I did was purchase and installed the 12" JL Powerwedge. What a difference it makes!

The install took me a better part of a day since i was running power from the front. I wasnt in any sort of hurry and wanted to make sure I had everything nice and tucked way. I installed the remote knob in the location markboris suggested and it works great.

Big thanks to @markboris and everyone who contributed to this thread.

 

[JayBonk]

A question for the installers who tapped the 12V power at the rear outlet: where did you connect the negative power wire from the aftermarket amp/sub? Did you tap the negative wire on the car's 12V outlet? Connect the negative amp power wire a ground point on the car frame? Something else?

I've installed many systems in previous cars, but always ran power from the car battery and grounded to the frame. This is new territory for me. Thanks!

 

[markboris]

A question for the installers who tapped the 12V power at the rear outlet: where did you connect the negative power wire from the aftermarket amp/sub? Did you tap the negative wire on the car's 12V outlet? Connect the negative amp power wire a ground point on the car frame? Something else?

I've installed many systems in previous cars, but always ran power from the car battery and grounded to the frame. This is new territory for me. Thanks!

The proper way to connect the amp and the way I explained in the first post of this thread is how you’ve always done it on your installs. There are several members here that have connected the amp, both positive and negative voltage to the 12V outlet. Depending on the amp, this will work but is not recommended. Several here have had no problems at all connecting like this so either their amp does not draw much power or they don’t turn up the volume very loud. The OEM B&O amp is very low powered to begin with and doesn’t play very loud (without distortion), so if you are matching your sub amp to that volume, you won't be driving the sub amp very loud. Like myself and others that have upgraded and added more power to the main speakers we wouldn’t be able to drive the sub amp with that 12V outlet, 20A circuit.

 

[mkhuffman]

A question for the installers who tapped the 12V power at the rear outlet: where did you connect the negative power wire from the aftermarket amp/sub? Did you tap the negative wire on the car's 12V outlet? Connect the negative amp power wire a ground point on the car frame? Something else?

I've installed many systems in previous cars, but always ran power from the car battery and grounded to the frame. This is new territory for me. Thanks!

Mark's advice is spot on, as usual. My sub is relatively low powered, as it is small and mounted under the driver seat. I just connected to the positive and negative connections on the 12V outlet and ran the wires to the sub under the seat. I didn't want to mess with running power from the battery. It is so much easier to use the 12V outlet.

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