Car Randomly Stops Charging

[Shayne]

I think he's looking at a post of mine from last year.

It turns out that, in my case, the temperature wasn't really getting that high in the charge port. There was a faulty temperature sensor that was reporting temperatures much higher than were actually present and causing the charging session to shut down.

They had to replace the charge port and the entire cable that goes from it to the onboard charger to fix the problem. Mine has been find ever since.

Maybe a follow up post on the thread you started of your fix would be helpful also?

Sponsored

 

[DanCoon]

So it happened again last night. Same red ring and DTC code. I'm going to try and take it in to the dealer later this week, and I anticipate the tech giving me a hard time about it. Quick question before I do...

There are two temperature readings for the HV Coupler Temperature. Mine show two significantly different numbers. Are they measuring the same thing, or is this an indication that the higher one is faulty? My immediate guess is that they are measuring the 2 different J1772 input pins on the coupler.

 

[PEldridge]

I don't have a reply but do want to say that my 2023 Premium extended range, under 2K miles, is recently also charging intermittently. We get a notice through FordPass that "scheduled charge failed to start" (or something like that), or that it's been "unplugged" or other notice. In FP I have charging set to "anytime" I plug it in, it is not unplugged or scheduled. We've called an electrician to come tomorrow just to doublecheck from breaker to charger. I have a Tesla wall charger hardwired, and use a Tesla Tec adapter. There are fail points: breaker, wiring, wall charger, adapter, and the car. So, I want to start with the hardwiring to rule that out at least and make sure it's a 60amp breaker and not a 50amp. And this started happening *after* the most recent update.

 

[stratigary]

So it happened again last night. Same red ring and DTC code. I'm going to try and take it in to the dealer later this week, and I anticipate the tech giving me a hard time about it. Quick question before I do...

There are two temperature readings for the HV Coupler Temperature. Mine show two significantly different numbers. Are they measuring the same thing, or is this an indication that the higher one is faulty? My immediate guess is that they are measuring the 2 different J1772 input pins on the coupler.

I'm having a hard time finding my old Car Scanner files but I do remember my two HV Coupler temperatures being wildly different as well. My assumption was that they, like you said, measure the temperature of both pins on the car charge port. Ford didn't give me a ton of information but they said that after they had an engineer look into it, they determined that there was no actual dangerous temperature increase and that one of the sensors was faulty, leading to the error.

When I get home, I can try and dig up the repair invoice and post it as it might be helpful to argue your case if they give you any push back. As a heads up, they had to keep my car there for a few days to replicate the even on their end first. Be sure that they are charging it on a proper 48A to ensure that it faults for them.

 

[DanCoon]

I'm having a hard time finding my old Car Scanner files but I do remember my two HV Coupler temperatures being wildly different as well. My assumption was that they, like you said, measure the temperature of both pins on the car charge port. Ford didn't give me a ton of information but they said that after they had an engineer look into it, they determined that there was no actual dangerous temperature increase and that one of the sensors was faulty, leading to the error.

When I get home, I can try and dig up the repair invoice and post it as it might be helpful to argue your case if they give you any push back. As a heads up, they had to keep my car there for a few days to replicate the even on their end first. Be sure that they are charging it on a proper 48A to ensure that it faults for them.

I appreciate that. An invoice would be helpful if you still have it. Is there not a way to test the sensor without having to leave it at the dealer? Just curious.

 

[stratigary]

I appreciate that. An invoice would be helpful if you still have it. Is there not a way to test the sensor without having to leave it at the dealer? Just curious.

There's really no way to test it at home that I know of. In order for Ford to even think about a warranty replacement they need to replicate the issue first and then contact Ford Engineering to get their input.

Apparently the replacement of the charge port includes the internal cables that go to the onboard charger and I was told by the tech that it is a big PITA. They damaged part of my headlight and ripped the door seals in the process of fixing it. It took over 4 days just to replace everything after the diagnosis.

 

[leehinde]

I will be sure to do that when I come across another charger.

Dear fellow Elk Grovian.... There are level 2 chargers at Delta Shores.

 

[DanCoon]

There's really no way to test it at home that I know of. In order for Ford to even think about a warranty replacement they need to replicate the issue first and then contact Ford Engineering to get their input.

Apparently the replacement of the charge port includes the internal cables that go to the onboard charger and I was told by the tech that it is a big PITA. They damaged part of my headlight and ripped the door seals in the process of fixing it. It took over 4 days just to replace everything after the diagnosis.

I'll start mentally preparing for that now. I would assume that if one of the sensors is wildly off that would be enough right? Do they really need it to create a DTC code?

 

[Maquis]

So it happened again last night. Same red ring and DTC code. I'm going to try and take it in to the dealer later this week, and I anticipate the tech giving me a hard time about it. Quick question before I do...

There are two temperature readings for the HV Coupler Temperature. Mine show two significantly different numbers. Are they measuring the same thing, or is this an indication that the higher one is faulty? My immediate guess is that they are measuring the 2 different J1772 input pins on the coupler.

My guess is that one sensor is positioned near the J1772 pins, and the other near the DC CCS pins.

 

[DanCoon]

My guess is that one sensor is positioned near the J1772 pins, and the other near the DC CCS pins.

Maybe, but there are two separate HV DC Coupler temperature sensors on the OBDII in CarScanner which I am assuming is for each of the DC input pins.

 

[Sully]

I'm pretty confident you're having the same issue I did, especially if you can charge successfully at 32A.

You should definitely take it into Ford to have them look at it. They'll have to keep it for some time to diagnose but they should be able to figure out what is going on

I have had two successful charges at 32A now. Car is scheduled to go in on Friday for the routine maintenance and the charging issue.

I believe my dealership has a hardwired charging station inside their building, so they should be able to recreate the issue. Since it is currently charged, I plan to take a couple extra trips tomorrow to bring the SOC down so they can have a long enough session to recreate the issue.

As for the handle and cable, it has never been hot, just warm (I can keep my hand on it for quite awhile) at both 32A and 48A.

Wish me luck. I just hope they don't beat around the bush. I am persistent, so I will call every day if I have to. lol

 

[Redundant]

I just had my car at the dealer for a week to get updates done so I could use BlueCruise, and two new half shafts. When I got it home, it kept stopping charging after 2 to 5 minutes. I have gotten it to charge sometimes, but tonight, restarted it 5 times so far and no luck. It charges on lower amp chargers, as I used one in a parking garage and one at Ford. But, I think Fords are lower amps because after a pretty long wait, it had not added a lot of miles. They probably want to keep their costs down. I also went for a high speed charge at EVGo and no problem there either. There is something wrong in the 40A plus range. I don’t know how I am going to convince my dealer I have this problem, because when they plug it in, it will work. I thought I was done trouble shooting for a while, but, this charging thing reared its head.

 

[Theburn16]

I'll start mentally preparing for that now. I would assume that if one of the sensors is wildly off that would be enough right? Do they really need it to create a DTC code?

so mine has been doing this since August. I can tell you that if you turn down the amps to 32 or lower, it will charge just fine. I am however making them fix mine…they were supposed to today, but didn’t have a loaner car for me so it got pushed back until they do.

 

[Theburn16]

I just had my car at the dealer for a week to get updates done so I could use BlueCruise, and two new half shafts. When I got it home, it kept stopping charging after 2 to 5 minutes. I have gotten it to charge sometimes, but tonight, restarted it 5 times so far and no luck. It charges on lower amp chargers, as I used one in a parking garage and one at Ford. But, I think Fords are lower amps because after a pretty long wait, it had not added a lot of miles. They probably want to keep their costs down. I also went for a high speed charge at EVGo and no problem there either. There is something wrong in the 40A plus range. I don’t know how I am going to convince my dealer I have this problem, because when they plug it in, it will work. I thought I was done trouble shooting for a while, but, this charging thing reared its head.

you don’t have to convince them, they can see the error code themselves…they have shown me the list of errors and they’re able to see every single that that it’s happened. But yes, 32amps and lower charges just fine without this issue happening.

 

[Redundant]

you don’t have to convince them, they can see the error code themselves…they have shown me the list of errors and they’re able to see every single that that it’s happened. But yes, 32amps and lower charges just fine without this issue happening.

I don’t want to have to dial back the amps. I have been using this ChargePoint since I got the car over two years ago. I called ChargePoint and they ran a diagnostic remotely and said all is well and there are no codes. So, I think it has to be the car.

I hope the codes show up, because all it says on my phone is plugged in not charging and no notices when I get in the car and start it up.

Sponsored