Mopey

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Fortunately, after I trickle charged mine back to life I didn't get this warning. In fact, I went for an 80 mile spin with no issues at all except for testing the brakes when a doe jumped in front of my Mach E ?
Did you do a full charge or just enough to get the car started?
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JellyBelly

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Could be a hybrid AGM but cant say for sure, no info online accept 2 yr warranty which is weird since most AGM have a 5yr warranty
By the way I have in my head that the MME 12 v battery is lithium ion ... not less acid... am I wrong?
 

kdryden99

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By the way I have in my head that the MME 12 v battery is lithium ion ... not less acid... am I wrong?
I am not aware of any 12v lithium car batterys on the market right now. There are hurdles with charging 12v lithium in a car that would need to be worked out but it is supposed to better for overall charging since itll be the same composition of the HVB

Edit* I did find some but they are 600-800$ each. Doubt very much its lithium. Most likely AGM
 

JellyBelly

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I am not aware of any 12v lithium car batterys on the market right now. There are hurdles with charging 12v lithium in a car that would need to be worked out but it is supposed to better for overall charging since itll be the same composition of the HVB

Edit* I did find some but they are 600-800$ each. Doubt very much its lithium. Most likely AGM
Ok got it thanks
 


kdryden99

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More on the 12v
"For a while now, Tesla has had a recurring issue with its 12-volt batteries, especially in Model S and Model X.

They have a tendency to die pretty fast — or seemingly faster than in other vehicles.

How fast depends on many factors, including climate and how often you drive the vehicle, since driving it more often can actually help with longevity.

Last year, Tesla tried to fix the rapidly dying 12v battery problem with a software update.

Now, Musk confirmed that Tesla has moved to a new 12v Li-ion battery for the new Model S and Model X"
 
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tomterky

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The powertrain light that popped when looking in the manual on page 150 is under the the "high voltage battery" header. Wonder if it wasn't charging the 12v enough. My vehicle was built Jan 9. Did not go to speedway. It had religiously been on the charger every night since I got it Wednesday due to the extreme cold Temps. Outside it has been lows of -22 with a high of 0 for Saturday into Sunday and now Monday. I also had it precondition before I'd go anywhere while still plugged in. It's 22 above in my garage.

Ford Mustang Mach-E Deep Sleep Mode - 12v battery drained dead [update: Mach-E jump started] Screenshot_20210214-220453_Drive


Screenshot_20210214-221305_Sense V2 flip clock.jpg
 

kdryden99

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The powertrain light that popped when looking in the manual on page 150 is under the the "high voltage battery" header. Wonder if it wasn't charging the 12v enough. My vehicle was built Jan 9. Did not go to speedway. It had religiously been on the charger every night since I got it Wednesday due to the extreme cold Temps. Outside it has been lows of -22 with a high of 0 for Saturday into Sunday and now Monday. I also had it precondition before I'd go anywhere while still plugged in. It's 22 above in my garage.

Ford Mustang Mach-E Deep Sleep Mode - 12v battery drained dead [update: Mach-E jump started] Screenshot_20210214-221305_Sense V2 flip clock


Ford Mustang Mach-E Deep Sleep Mode - 12v battery drained dead [update: Mach-E jump started] Screenshot_20210214-221305_Sense V2 flip clock
Could be the reason. Could also explain why others had issues while driving and the car went into limp mode. They could all be related to a 12v issue. I dont know if the cheapy ebay obd2 scanners can read the 12v level but one way to know if its charging would be to see if theres an increase in voltage on 12v while plugged in vs while its just sitting.

If the 12v dies, its the same as your alternator going out since there is no other way to run the electronics in the car. So the errors you guys are seeing could be a low 12v. At this point the dealer will be able to figure that out easily. It just sucks you guys have to go through this.
 

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cold weather charging and range seems like a big "issue" with EV cars for now. Seeing how northerners have very cold weather for 25% or more each year seems hard to justify the price and hassle (assuming it is not a quality issue with mach e)
 

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My guess is that some transfer drivers are forgetting to but them in transport mode when transferring. That would cause the alarms to keep going off.
 

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Wonder if it wasn't charging the 12v enough.
Particularly in the extreme cold. I don't know if it actually take more juice to charge when it's very cold, but it might. And maybe they don't have that parameter set quite right yet (especially since most of the preproduction testing was done in warmer months)?
 

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The powertrain light that popped when looking in the manual on page 150 is under the the "high voltage battery" header. Wonder if it wasn't charging the 12v enough. My vehicle was built Jan 9. Did not go to speedway. It had religiously been on the charger every night since I got it Wednesday due to the extreme cold Temps. Outside it has been lows of -22 with a high of 0 for Saturday into Sunday and now Monday. I also had it precondition before I'd go anywhere while still plugged in. It's 22 above in my garage.

Ford Mustang Mach-E Deep Sleep Mode - 12v battery drained dead [update: Mach-E jump started] Screenshot_20210214-221305_Sense V2 flip clock


Ford Mustang Mach-E Deep Sleep Mode - 12v battery drained dead [update: Mach-E jump started] Screenshot_20210214-221305_Sense V2 flip clock
Ew...
 

The ICTVillain

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My Mach E went into sleep mode one night when my GFI tripped (I put my NSX on a trickle charger on an outlet on the same circuit - the combination of the two charges seemed to result in the GFI tripping).

The Mach E started fine and didn’t have any error codes. The only negatives - expected range was lower than anticipated and my car was not pre-conditioned. I assume having the Mach E plugged into the charger without power could create a parasitic drag situation.

Since about 2007 many cars I have owned have had issues with parasitic drag. I had a brand new Acura that would keep the bluetooth engaged on my work phone if I shut the car off while still on a conversation (despite switching to the phone’s speaker). You wanna talk about a dead battery.... This happened two or three times before figuring out the situation. Acura eventually solved it with a service bulletin.

My dad recently sold his auto dealership. It is common for pre-owned vehicles to have parasitic drag issues (I am not sure any of the manufacturers are immune). Unfortunately, many of the newer cars have “difficult/tedious” steps required to enter and perform a simple jump start. This is the price of tech such as keyless ignition.

Note: My 2015 Mastercraft boat has had a parasitic drag issue as well. I have been unable to track the culprits down... If I leave the master switch on just 24 hours with everything else shut-off I am stuck using a jumper box or charger to start.

In summation - many people have already offered theories on long term storage, leaving something on, software bug, build issue, or battery quality which all make sense. My guess - this will not be widespread and won’t be any worse than other new model teething issues, but - if it is something systemic - Ford will identify and correct it quickly.
 
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Psipunk

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Ford Mustang Mach-E Deep Sleep Mode - 12v battery drained dead [update: Mach-E jump started] 20210214_215921


Is any of this true? It doesn't seem like those statements reflect real world conditions based on the problems people are having right now with dead 12v batteries and getting locked out of their cars.

I genuinely feel bad for the folks that have had to go through these troubles.

Also, I wonder if anyone has tested popping the frunk externally from the contacts while the 12v battery is still "good"? You would hope it doesn't open, but how can you be sure unless someone tries for themselves?
 

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Ford Mustang Mach-E Deep Sleep Mode - 12v battery drained dead [update: Mach-E jump started] 20210214_215921


Is any of this true? It doesn't seem like those statements reflect real world conditions based on the problems people are having right now with dead 12v batteries and getting locked out of their cars.

I genuinely feel bad for the folks that have had to go through these troubles.

Also, I wonder if anyone has tested popping the frunk externally from the contacts while the 12v battery is still "good"? You would hope it doesn't open, but how can you be sure unless someone tries for themselves?
Agree with you that those statements are not reflective of real world experiences past few weeks. Those are words of over optimistic company employee but I would have asked how much testing went into being that confident. Most people on this forum have had issues with their cars ... and if big issues with cars then issues with connectivity ...

I also wonder how come none of the tens of reviews we have seen or read experienced these ... were they given scrubbed cars? Sure then the reviews and kudos are reflective only of the driving dynamics. Not anything else. And why? Is it because Ford thought these issues would be fixed by production vehicles?
 
 




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