Hardwiring EVSE vs plug-in option

JCHLi

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Another thing to consider besides the wire size is the number of wires. The 14-50 would take an extra neutral wire. So you might compare 70 feet of 6-3 to 70 feet of 4-2...
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BMT1071

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Another thing to consider besides the wire size is the number of wires. The 14-50 would take an extra neutral wire. So you might compare 70 feet of 6-3 to 70 feet of 4-2...
Or they could go with a 6-50 and price 70' of 6-2. So many possibilities. ??
 
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RMoore

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Or they could go with a 6-50 and price 70' of 6-2. So many possibilities. ??
I ended up ordering the 14-50 version of the ChargePoint though.
 

capnhowdy21

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Those are all 20% differences...

Get home from trip empty. 2 hours until an event. Do you want more power?

Or, have a Lightning...

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For two hours that’s what 10-12 miles? 3.4 kw and 3 mi per kw. I mean I think if cost isn’t an option, hard wired is the way to go. But for me it was like an extra 2 grand to do a hard wire, so not worth it.
 


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RMoore

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Thanks for all the feedback. I guess if one hardwires but elects to use a 50A circuit that still would be ok assuming one sets the ChargePoint for 40A and should therefore should not incur additional cost. I suppose the only advantage there is it is a cleaner (and maybe safer) approach.
 
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RMoore

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But for me it was like an extra 2 grand to do a hard wire, so not worth it.
Curious--why such a big difference in cost to hardwire? I haven't gotten quotes both ways yet.
 

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There is not a big difference to wire from scratch. For some, they MAY already have the right wiring in place, or in place for part of the distance.

My electrician used aluminum wire instead of copper.
 

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Curious--why such a big difference in cost to hardwire? I haven't gotten quotes both ways yet.
I had a subpanel already in my garage with a 60amp wire that powers other things. If I wanted to have a full 60 for my car I would have had to run another 60amp wire from my main box to the garage. Instead they just ran about 2 feet of 50amp wire from the subpanel to where the outlet went. If I had to run the wire the whole way regardless, I would have hardwired.
 

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FWIW, I chose the 50 amp line with NEMA 14-50 plug for the versatility that it provides. Using a Wall Box Plus. Servicing a Mach-e and a Model 3.
 

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Curious--why such a big difference in cost to hardwire? I haven't gotten quotes both ways yet.
I mean, I can see this going either way on cost difference.

I should note that I don't know the finer points of sparky pricing, because I pulled the permit, did the job myself, and had WA LNI come and inspect. (Washington allows home owners to do electrical work if they plan to stay in the house for an extended period of time after the work is done).

But I also had lots of room in my panel, existing 200A service, and feel more than comfortable doing electrical work, and needed to put the receptacle all of 2' from the panel itself.

If you're hard-wiring for 60A:
- SAVE materials by not having to run a neutral wire
- SAVE on breaker costs* because a TM breaker is much cheaper than a GFCI breaker (If following 2020 NEC)
- SPEND BIG if you hit panel capacity and/or ampacity issues like @capnhowdy21 did.

If you're wiring for NEMA 14-50 at 40 A:
- SPEND on materials by needing a neutral conductor to the receptacle.
- SAVE because there's no labor time for the sparky to figure out how to mount the EVSE; they do receptacles every damn day.
- SPEND on breaker costs because a GFCI may be required* (If following 2020 NEC).
- Still SPEND BIG if you hit panel capacity and/or ampacity issues like @capnhowdy21 did.

And depending on how you want it done:
- Anything you want "pretty" (no conduit) will be spendy and time consuming.
- The longer the run, the more spendy.

And completely uncontrollable:
- Your sparky's materials costs. If they just happen to have the right THHN or Romex on the truck from a previous job, it can (not always) cost less.

All things being equal, I'd expect costs to be roughly a wash. It's when you get to the issues of panel capacity (and occasionally the service capacity coming into the main panel) that things can get expensive, quick.
 

JoelOclock

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I went 14-50 route here in WA for a few reasons:
1. 20% faster charging made zero difference to my use case
2. Flexibility - if we sold I feel like the gazillion tesla owners here would prefer not having to disconnect hardwired
3. We were doing a run from front of basement, down length of house and then into trenched run under ground to put a new sub panel in garage. I assumed the cost would be higher as a result
4. despite rebates I was still going to have to pony (ha) up more to buy a separate wall charger
5. options for plugging other things in
6. Cost. Panel was absolutely capped out so doubt it would've handled the larger load. The meter was 200 but panel was 125. With all the other electric work we were having at time $8K was enough to spend without another $10K for the panel that could wait till the basement remodel.
 

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I am getting an new panel and asked the electrician if he could install a 14-50 under the same permit. He said yes, does anyone have any idea how much more he would charge while replacing panel. It's an expensive panel as it all has to be stainless steel due to code in my city.

My husband who has done quite a bit of electrical work at our house, would like to install the outlet but I am hesitant for this. I just don't know how much it would be and of course it depends how far away from panel...
 

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Curious--why such a big difference in cost to hardwire? I haven't gotten quotes both ways yet.
It’s mostly the wire, best guess. That’s thick gauge wire that needs to be run for the 60A. The 50A wire is no slouch either, but you’re more likely to already have that run.

For example, I had a 50A outlet for an electric stove run across the basement from the breaker box to the kitchen/garage wall. I just pulled that out of the kitchen (I have a gas stove) and rerouted it through the garage wall to install a 14-50 outlet. If I wanted to hardwire on 60A, an electrician would have to come out, run probably thousands of dollars in thicker cable, and then wire it up.
 

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I am getting an new panel and asked the electrician if he could install a 14-50 under the same permit. He said yes, does anyone have any idea how much more he would charge while replacing panel. It's an expensive panel as it all has to be stainless steel due to code in my city.

My husband who has done quite a bit of electrical work at our house, would like to install the outlet but I am hesitant for this. I just don't know how much it would be and of course it depends how far away from panel...
Did you ask the electrician for a price?
Normally, I wouldn’t expect the cost to be too great since they are already there installing a new panel, especially if the receptacle is going to be close to the panel. Maybe a couple hundred??

But if your panel is required to be corrosion-resistant, there could be similar requirements for the receptacle outlet that could greatly affect the cost.
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