Ahlarict

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Really appreciate the inspiration and knowledge shared here! Thank you all, and especially the OP @markboris. I went with the Rockford-Fosgate “Punch” 8” vented and powered 300w RMS sub-woofer. It seems to be a reasonable match for the B&O components, the available space under the load floor (even in the low position), the undiscriminating nature of my uneducated aging ears, and the amount of money and time I was interested in spending on the project to add “just a little bit more bass” to a system I was otherwise mostly happy with.

Since it’s only a 20amp unit and the rear 12v is already on a switched and fused 20amp circuit, I just used posi-taps in that corner to tap the power and high-level inputs, while leaving the B&O 6x9 connected to continue contributing some mid and grounding to an existing body ground bolt behind the same panel. Easy-peasy! Plenty of thump to allow me to feel the music in my heart without creating "medically significant" decibel pressures or requiring extensive disassembly of the vehicle!

For not investing in additional sound deadening or "prep of the sound stage" (beyond the removal of the stock Styrofoam and application of velcro to the bottom of the enclosure), I was pleasantly surprised with the lack of rattle and distortion back there even at what I consider to be higher output levels. With 860w total now (560w B&O+300w RF sub), I think this 11-speaker "B&ORF bastard audio system" has ended up sounding pretty darn adequate!

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I secured the remote knob to the console using a bit of Gorilla Putty (it seems to do a good job of staying stuck until you want to be unstuck, then it's entirely removable without trace).
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Gmork

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Pretty sure I shorted my 12v in the trunk while attempting to do the install. Anyone know where the fuse for that is located. Replacement fuses showed up today..

Edit: found it. Hopefully things go better tomorrow.
 
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Ahlarict

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Pretty sure I shorted my 12v in the trunk while attempting to do the install. Anyone know where the fuse for that is located. Replacement fuses showed up today..

Edit: found it. Hopefully things go better tomorrow.
What sub did you end up installing and how'd it turn out?
 

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What sub did you end up installing and how'd it turn out?
I ended up getting a Sound Ordnance B-8PTD to hold me off while I take care of a bunch of issues I’ve just run into with my house.

Unfortunately, while I can get power to the sub, I can’t get any sound out of it. The power light flashes when a signal that’s at or below the crossover point comes through, but still no sound. Other times the power light stays lit all the time regardless of signal.

Open to ideas. Possibly a bad unit. Unlikely that it’s not getting enough power since it’s a pretty low wattage sub. Audio is coming from the factory sub cables, so I’m not sure what else to do.
 

Ahlarict

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I ended up getting a Sound Ordnance B-8PTD to hold me off while I take care of a bunch of issues I’ve just run into with my house.

Unfortunately, while I can get power to the sub, I can’t get any sound out of it. The power light flashes when a signal that’s at or below the crossover point comes through, but still no sound. Other times the power light stays lit all the time regardless of signal.

Open to ideas. Possibly a bad unit. Unlikely that it’s not getting enough power since it’s a pretty low wattage sub. Audio is coming from the factory sub cables, so I’m not sure what else to do.
How did you wire it?
 
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It’s finally warm out and I’m going to start with the sub install!!

@markboris from your picture it looks like you ran the wire though a hole in the firewall. I have a nub there. Did you just cut that off?

Thanks!

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DK_Min

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I cut a slit in the nub to pass the wire trough.
Success!!!

Any tips for running it down the left side? Does the panel with the hood release pop out? My release is in the way.

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Success!!!

Any tips for running it down the left side? Does the panel with the hood release pop out? My release is in the way.

IMG_5631.jpeg


image.jpg
That hood release handle comes off easily. Then you can remove the kick panel. Probably better to DM me and then we can go back and forth easier.
 

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That hood release handle comes off easily. Then you can remove the kick panel. Probably better to DM me and then we can go back and forth easier.

Ha ha! I got it figured out.

Last question, how did you feed the remote cable to that centre console nicely? I think this might be something that helps other people out too!

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Ha ha! I got it figured out.

Last question, how did you feed the remote cable to that centre console nicely? I think this might be something that helps other people out too!

image.jpg
Unbolted the drivers seat and tipped it back to run the wire from where you are at under the carpet across to the kick panel your running the power wire.
 

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Unbolted the drivers seat and tipped it back to run the wire from where you are at under the carpet across to the kick panel your running the power wire.
Better than I did - I was too lazy to unbolt the seat, so I stuck my hand as far down the console as I could until I felt carpet and some sliver of airspace - I think it was near the front of the left seat rail of the passenger seat. Once I poked it through there and got hold of the other end, I worked it to the extreme rear right bottom corner of the center console near the right rear passenger's footwell. Then I just put it under the weathertech rubber mat and up under the rear passenger seat and into the trunk under the carpet. It's invisible and neatly hidden from passenger feet, at least.
 
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Better than I did - I was too lazy to unbolt the seat, so I stuck my hand as far down the console as I could until I felt carpet and some sliver of airspace - I think it was near the front of the left seat rail of the passenger seat. Once I poked it through there and got hold of the other end, I worked it to the extreme rear right bottom corner of the center console near the right rear passenger's footwell. Then I just put it under the weathertech rubber mat and up under the rear passenger seat and into the trunk under the carpet. It's invisible and neatly hidden from passenger feet, at least.
There are several ways to do this but yours may be better. You do need a 55 and 50 torx to remove those seat bolts and most people don’t have those sizes.
 

Ahlarict

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There are several ways to do this but yours may be better. You do need a 55 and 50 torx to remove those seat bolts and most people don’t have those sizes.
Here's a close-up of that no-drill/chewing gum (Gorilla Putty) mounting method - I'm pleasantly surprised at how well it stays put and out of the way.
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How did you wire it?
Spliced into the 12v in the trunk for power, high level from stock sub for sound.

Sometimes I’m getting sound from the sub, other times nothing. When I do get bass it feels full and powerful but I haven’t bothered to try and dial it in because I need to go back over the wiring, both power and speaker.

Hoping to do that today. Got 12g speaker wire to use instead of lamp wire. Hoping that’s the issue and not power, because even when there’s no output, the sub still has power.
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