phidauex

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Playing the stereo and new sub at full power, just slamming, would probably use about 500W. Playing it for an hour would use 0.5 kWhs. If you were driving down the highway at 70mph for that hour, you would go 70 miles and use about 30 kWhs, meaning your stereo - at full blast mind you - is only contributing about 1.6% of your total consumption.

The accessories in the car are all small potatoes compared to whipping 2 tons of metal up to an insane velocity.

All that said, thanks again to markboris for the install tips - I've been enjoying my sub quite a bit, got to take a drive yesterday without the family and let it rip a bit!
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Tngo23

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Gotchaā€¦..thank you Mark
It took a while but itā€™s done
With the help of my friend, grabbed the power, ground, signal all from the left side of the MME. The only reason I didnā€™t go the route that Mark did was I had extra equipment from my other car. The back up plan was to get the exact JL sub with built in Amp and a whole lot faster.

Nevertheless
Here is my equipment:
Kicker flat 12ā€ sealed box, Kicker Mono Amp CXA800.1: 300 watts RMS, Audio Source LC6I converter which is for multiple amps but since I had might as well use it. 8 Gauge wiring kit

Thank you @markboris for all his write ups/support. He is the Man!

8EA3C265-76A5-4722-BAAE-FC7698D32C38.jpeg


34A16F6D-D27F-4257-952E-736597E31649.jpeg
 

Polar

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Love Audio Control.

I have used so much of their gear through the years.

Helps they are also a local to me company.

/off topic
 
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Tngo23

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It took a while but itā€™s done
With the help of my friend, grabbed the power, ground, signal all from the left side of the MME. The only reason I didnā€™t go the route that Mark did was I had extra equipment from my other car. The back up plan was to get the exact JL sub with built in Amp and a whole lot faster.

Nevertheless
Here is my equipment:
Kicker flat 12ā€ sealed box, Kicker Mono Amp CXA800.1: 300 watts RMS, Audio Source LC6I converter which is for multiple amps but since I had might as well use it. 8 Gauge wiring kit

Thank you @markboris for all his write ups/support. He is the Man!

8EA3C265-76A5-4722-BAAE-FC7698D32C38.jpeg


34A16F6D-D27F-4257-952E-736597E31649.jpeg
I couldn't leave it alone......
Had an audio shop customize a fiberglass box underneath the floor board so no box will be up top.......Kinda like what @markboris did but my Sub/Amp are separate....

Man does the 10" Flat JL Audio slab nice/tight...It sounds pretty good with stock speakers but knowing myself.....Next is to replace all stock mids/highs and add a DSP to it.....

Ford Mustang Mach-E Adding a decent subwoofer/amp to your Mach-E B6AA011B-24FC-4C7A-80C9-9A997484B17D


B94B7FC1-36ED-4374-B820-7BF52F8FF55B.jpeg
 

rgonyer

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Last time I did a full system, I had a Fosgate 360.3 signal processor, a multi channel amp, and a JL Stealthbox along with some Focal door speakers in my 2013 Focus ST. I picked up the speaker signals from the output of the stock amp in the trunk ran them all to the 360.3, and then line level 5 channel to my amp. It worked awesome, and you could log into the 360.3 with your laptop and tune everything the way you wanted. Has anyone gone this far? I haven't had a car in the past 5 years I wanted to spend the time installing all this stuff into, but I think this one might be it!
 


Tngo23

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Last time I did a full system, I had a Fosgate 360.3 signal processor, a multi channel amp, and a JL Stealthbox along with some Focal door speakers in my 2013 Focus ST. I picked up the speaker signals from the output of the stock amp in the trunk ran them all to the 360.3, and then line level 5 channel to my amp. It worked awesome, and you could log into the 360.3 with your laptop and tune everything the way you wanted. Has anyone gone this far? I haven't had a car in the past 5 years I wanted to spend the time installing all this stuff into, but I think this one might be it!
Great idea & set up
I am a music addict and the JL flat 10ā€ sounds so good that makes me want to upgrade all speakers or maybe a 3 way for front stage with a DSP/Amp combo
Focal or Hertz speakers will be the choice
 

rgonyer

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Anyone know where to find a color coded wiring diagram for the stock B&O system?
 
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markboris

markboris

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Anyone know where to find a color coded wiring diagram for the stock B&O system?
What part of the system do you want? In the WSM, the wiring diagrams are scattered all over the manual. Are you only interested in wiring going to the speakers or more?
 

Hckymstr19

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I would not connect your BassPro up to the factory amp's power input even though you did in your BMW. What I would do, if you did not want to run a power wire from the battery back, is connect it to the 12 volt power outlet in the cargo area. It has max of 20 amps and your sub also requires 20 amps. This would not be as ideal as connecting directly to the battery but much better than the OEM amp. Since the BassPro has "audio sense" it will turn itself on and off when it gets an audio signal from the OEM sub wiring.
Do you have any diagrams for removing the paneling for where the oem subwoofer is?
 
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markboris

markboris

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Do you have any diagrams for removing the paneling for where the oem subwoofer is?
Hi Dan, you don't need to remove the entire panel as shown in the last photo. Just pull the rear half out and then you can get to the subwoofer. In order to remove the entire panel you need to remove a bit more than what I posted in these photos.

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Rus23

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So I have the JL Audio ACS112LG-TW1 mounted in my Mach-E. Like all of you who have the added subwoofer, I'm loving the better sound but I notice it is massively attenuating / interfering with the DAB radio signal in the car to the point that I have to use FM rather than DAB (We only have DAB rather than Sirius here in the UK).

I reached out to JL but they weren't much help "Try moving it somewhere else in the car" was their suggestion! Not sure where else I could put that big box!

Have any of you faced anything similar and solved it by any chance please?
 
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markboris

markboris

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So I have the JL Audio ACS112LG-TW1 mounted in my Mach-E. Like all of you who have the added subwoofer, I'm loving the better sound but I notice it is massively attenuating / interfering with the DAB radio signal in the car to the point that I have to use FM rather than DAB (We only have DAB rather than Sirius here in the UK).

I reached out to JL but they weren't much help "Try moving it somewhere else in the car" was their suggestion! Not sure where else I could put that big box!

Have any of you faced anything similar and solved it by any chance please?
Hi Russ, I have never heard of this issue and have used many JL subs in many vehicles, not just my own. I hope someone from Europe can chime in and has a fix for you.
 

Puttyandnapalm

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Thank you so much to @markboris for posting this.
I recycled this kicker 8ā€ square and alpine amp previously installed in my gladiatorā€¦. I was worried the kicker box wouldnā€™t fit but works great with floor in top position.

This required 4ga wire but it still fit through the same grommet. I followed some other directions for how to completely disconnect battery/fuse box with that green pull tab.

Hereā€™s the setup in both the gladiator and now mustang

E6C274AB-2FE8-43D1-A52A-8DD95D5632A4.jpeg


A9038AFF-36A7-4717-8196-FF051957DA94.jpeg
 

dmastro

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I would never in a million years do this, but I loved the write up and photos
 

Blue highway

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So I have the JL Audio ACS112LG-TW1 mounted in my Mach-E. Like all of you who have the added subwoofer, I'm loving the better sound but I notice it is massively attenuating / interfering with the DAB radio signal in the car to the point that I have to use FM rather than DAB (We only have DAB rather than Sirius here in the UK).

I reached out to JL but they weren't much help "Try moving it somewhere else in the car" was their suggestion! Not sure where else I could put that big box!

Have any of you faced anything similar and solved it by any chance please?
I've had JL audio amps in my BMW for years. They sound good but are really noisy RF wise. I'm no longer willing to pay that "lazy tax" because they don't adequately filter their Class D circuitry. This is doable from an engineering perspective, they just don't do it. I'll never use them again.
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