Adding a real subwoofer w/amp to your Mach-E

[phidauex]

Installed the 10" JL Audio PowerWedge+ last night, thanks for all the details in this thread, things went pretty well, and it does sound great. The fit is just about perfect. I bought a "scratch and dent" model from Crutchfield for some nice cost savings. I think it maybe had a tiny bump on the grill, but I probably did worse just taking it out of the bag.

A few notes from my install:

• I tapped into the 12V accessory outlet power above the stock subwoofer. I know it is only fused at 20A, and I'll probably run a real power cable later, but I wanted to get rolling and I don't run at high volumes. Not officially recommended. I did reduce the amp's internal fuse to 20A, if I blow it then at least I protected the cables and hopefully it blows before the main fuse for the 12V circuit blows.
• For making connections I used my favorite new little connectors. These are heat shrink tubes with low-temp solder built in. You just stick the two ends of the wire in, use a heatgun to shrink the outer parts of the tube to hold onto the wires, then hit the middle part, the solder melts and flows, and you have a nice clean soldered and sealed connection in one shot. I use a small butane Dremel-branded micro heatgun to get into tight spaces. https://www.amazon.com/Shrink-Solder-Sleeve-Crimpless-Connectors/dp/B01H7MU8W8?th=1
• Be careful and keep the car fully shut off while working on the wiring. I was a dork and cut my + and - power cables at the same time while aux power was on, so I blew one of the fuses in the main fuse box (fuse number 61 or 71, a 20A MCASE slotted cartridge fuse - I did find that a nonslotted worked as well). The main fuse box is a massive pain to get into so be extra careful and don't be silly when cutting wires. These fuses aren't available at most auto parts stores and you need to remove the entire frunk to get to the fuse box where they are located. I spent as much time dealing with my little f-up than I did on the entire rest of the install.
• I ran the remote volume control along the driver side of the car, tucked into the plastic trim alongside the carpet. It was fairly easy to fish by hand. I brought it up under the driver seat, and used a bit of 3M VHB tape to secure it. I can reach it easily but it is hidden out of the way and easy to remove.

Thanks again for all the tips!

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[monikauntia]

Thank you for this write-up! Went through the thread but I didn't see anything regarding the surroud sound feature - are there any changes to how the soundstage sounds when surround is turned on after the new sub's installed?

 

[Mach1E]

Thank you for this write-up! Went through the thread but I didn't see anything regarding the surroud sound feature - are there any changes to how the soundstage sounds when surround is turned on after the new sub's installed?

Personally I would say “no.” I still prefer stereo to surround. The new sub definitely makes the sound more full but doesn’t change the surround feature.

But I mostly listen to music which seems more natural in stereo.

 

[Divebc]

In the process of adding a sub. I am wondering if anyone has tried installing a larger amp. I currently have an app and sub from my prior vehicle. It is a Alpine PDX-m12 1200watt rms amp. it is over kill but it is what I currently have. I am just worried about the power delivery of the 12volt system with out adding a second battery. Has anyone dug into the amperage of the charging system for the 12volt battery. I see the JL powerwedge + is pushing 30 amps and by all accounts I haven't heard of anyone having issues. I don't expect to be running the amp to its max by any means we just also know that amps don't like to be under powered. The PDX amp asks for a max 100amp. Any information would be great.

Thank you

 

[markboris]

In the process of adding a sub. I am wondering if anyone has tried installing a larger amp. I currently have an app and sub from my prior vehicle. It is a Alpine PDX-m12 1200watt rms amp. it is over kill but it is what I currently have. I am just worried about the power delivery of the 12volt system with out adding a second battery. Has anyone dug into the amperage of the charging system for the 12volt battery. I see the JL powerwedge + is pushing 30 amps and by all accounts I haven't heard of anyone having issues. I don't expect to be running the amp to its max by any means we just also know that amps don't like to be under powered. The PDX amp asks for a max 100amp. Any information would be great.

Thank you

HI Chris, I am sure someone here will be able to answer your question knowing much more than I do about the electrical system in the Mach-E. I think using your Alpine amp is way overkill for the OEM audio system since you are just adding a sub and not upgrading the rest of the system (which would be very expensive). As you said, the JL Powerwedge built in amp can draw up to 30 amps and as far as I know, no one has had issues with the electrical system and quite a few members have added this sub. The original one I installed in my Premium is over a year old and I put one in my GTPE late last year and all is well with both systems.

 

[Divebc]

HI Chris, I am sure someone here will be able to answer your question knowing much more than I do about the electrical system in the Mach-E. I think using your Alpine amp is way overkill for the OEM audio system since you are just adding a sub and not upgrading the rest of the system (which would be very expensive). As you said, the JL Powerwedge built in amp can draw up to 30 amps and as far as I know, no one has had issues with the electrical system and quite a few members have added this sub. The original one I installed in my Premium is over a year old and I put one in my GTPE late last year and all is well with both systems.

Yes Thank you Mark, I agree that the amp is over kill in the system. It was in my open air Wrangler and was still turned down most of the way. Long story on why I ended up with that particular amp.

Thats good to hear that the powerwedge does a good job. It might end up being my backup plan. I just know that the value of used car audio isn't there and which is why I am hoping to use what I have. I have a Focal p25 sub which is a really nice sounding Woofer. It looks like it will fit in the same place with a custom built box. Another option I have been looking at is to just replace the Amp with a 300watt RMS unit. (matches the Woofer RMS).

So many options and just new to the electric car world to know my options.

 

[Tngo23]

Hi All,

I am planning to add my extra equipment as well.....Flat 12" Kicker box, Kicker Mono Amp, and AudioSource LC 6 for Hi lo converter.

Perhaps I missed the part where Mark tapped into the rear speakers or stock sub for the Bass.

What color are the wiring in the rear for the Sub?

THX

 

[markboris]

Hi All,

I am planning to add my extra equipment as well.....Flat 12" Kicker box, Kicker Mono Amp, and AudioSource LC 6 for Hi lo converter.

Perhaps I missed the part where Mark tapped into the rear speakers or stock sub for the Bass.

What color are the wiring in the rear for the Sub?

THX

Tony, this is from around one of the middle paragraphs from my first post in this thread:

I removed the right trim panel in the cargo area in front of the OEM sub and disconnected the wires to the sub. Attached an 18 gauge speaker wire to the two wires that were going to the sub for my audio input to the JL amp. Green/Violet + and Gray -.

 

[Tngo23]

Tony, this is from around one of the middle paragraphs from my first post in this thread:

I removed the right trim panel in the cargo area in front of the OEM sub and disconnected the wires to the sub. Attached an 18 gauge speaker wire to the two wires that were going to the sub for my audio input to the JL amp. Green/Violet + and Gray -.

So no Hi Low needed? Just tap into the two wires that were going to the sub for my audio input to the JL amp. Green/Violet + and Gray - directly to my audio input of my Kicker Mono Amp?

 

[markboris]

So no Hi Low needed? Just tap into the two wires that were going to the sub for my audio input to the JL amp. Green/Violet + and Gray - directly to my audio input of my Kicker Mono Amp?

The JL Audio amp has both low level and high level inputs. Naturally the wires going to the OEM sub are high level so I used those to go into the high level input of the JL amp. If your Kicker amp only has low level inputs then you need a high to low level converter which are cheap.

 

[Tngo23]

The JL Audio amp has both low level and high level inputs. Naturally the wires going to the OEM sub are high level so I used those to go into the high level input of the JL amp. If your Kicker amp only has low level inputs then you need a high to low level converter which are cheap.

Gotcha…..thank you Mark

 

[Yevi]

Does the additional power draw from a new sub affect vehicle range? I am a little fuzzy about the relationship between the 12V battery and the drive battery, but it seems that all power comes from the main battery and braking which means ultimately, range would be affected.

 

[Mach1E]

Does the additional power draw from a new sub affect vehicle range? I am a little fuzzy about the relationship between the 12V battery and the drive battery, but it seems that all power comes from the main battery and braking which means ultimately, range would be affected.

I doubt it’s enough to be measured.

Never heard of anyone turning the radio off to increase range.

My guess is the extra 50 lbs has a larger effect than the power draw.

If you start caring about those minute details though, better start doing weather checks before you drive, so you only go out when the wind blows in the direction you’re heading, because that would make a larger difference.

 

[Yevi]

I doubt it’s enough to be measured.

Never heard of anyone turning the radio off to increase range.

My guess is the extra 50 lbs has a larger effect than the power draw.

If you start caring about those minute details though, better start doing weather checks before you drive, so you only go out when the wind blows in the direction you’re heading, because that would make a larger difference.

Thanks for the insight!

 

[mkhuffman]

Does the additional power draw from a new sub affect vehicle range? I am a little fuzzy about the relationship between the 12V battery and the drive battery, but it seems that all power comes from the main battery and braking which means ultimately, range would be affected.

I agree with everything @Mach1E posted.

The relationship between the 12V and high voltage battery: the HV battery keeps the 12V battery charged so anything that uses the 12V battery will also drain power from the HV battery, which reduces range of course.

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