Adding a Physical Interior Liftgate Power Switch

Ford_orr

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HughJazzol

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Hey Norman, yes you “tap” into the brown wire. I generally use Posi-Taps to do that. You do not cut that brown wire. The BCM is at the base of the passenger footwell.

The “O” (green/brown) wire on the parking brake switch does need to be cut. Tape off the wire that was going to it and the wire that is still connected to it goes to the brown wire you tapped into at the BCM.
Thanks again Mark
What gauge of wire should be used for the brown run?

Obviously, the hard part is routing and hiding the new wire to the center console.
 
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markboris

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Thanks again Mark
What gauge of wire should be used for the brown run?

Obviously, the hard part is routing and hiding the new wire to the center console.
Wire can be very thin. 22ga is just fine as that is what you will be tapping into for the brown wire (actually it is 24ga). Don't need any thicker than 20.

Nope, routing the wire is super easy. The hard part is finding the proper brown wire and it really can be difficult. Sometimes it is more of a tan. Somewhere I posted a video of how to run the wire from the BCM to the parking switch. I've sent it out to a few members before. Just got to find it.
 
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markboris

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If you’re able to track that down, I’d also be interested how you ran the wire.
I deleted it from my laptop but it is in a few DM’s I’ve sent out. I’ll look there. Kind of busy today but I’ll look if I have time.
 


HughJazzol

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I deleted it from my laptop but it is in a few DM’s I’ve sent out. I’ll look there. Kind of busy today but I’ll look if I have time.
Thanks a lot, Boris the Spider
 

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If you’re able to track that down, I’d also be interested how you ran the wire.
FWIW, running the wire from the BCM wire harness to the console was surprisingly easy. I was prepared for a pretty laborious process. Got all my plastic trim tools out and was ready to go. Ended up just pulling the plastic on the floor slightly with my fingers and tucking the wire in. Towards the center console, I just pushed the wire up a little and stuck my hand in and pulled it out. Never used any of my trim tools. Took about five minutes.
 
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Thanks a lot, Boris the Spider
Ok, found the videos but they were emailed out to members since the file size is too large to post here. If you send me your email in a DM I will send to you.
 

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Hey Mark

1. Can I use 12, 14,or 16 gauge speaker wire sold at HD by the foot?

2. We only need one wire, right? The one that will tap into the brown of the bcm console and run to the park assist button. We will leave the other wire of that park assist button untouched since it goes to ground, right?
 
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markboris

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Hey Mark

1. Can I use 12, 14,or 16 gauge speaker wire sold at HD by the foot?

2. We only need one wire, right? The one that will tap into the brown of the bcm console and run to the park assist button. We will leave the other wire of that park assist button untouched since it goes to ground, right?
Yes you can use that gauge wire but it is way too large for this purpose. Try to use 18ga if you can. Easily purchased at any hardware store. And yes on the park switch, you leave the "other" wire untouched.
 

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Yes you can use that gauge wire but it is way too large for this purpose. Try to use 18ga if you can. Easily purchased at any hardware store. And yes on the park switch, you leave the "other" wire untouched.
We don't have hardware stores in Miami, except HD and L.

I see that HD sells twisted 20/2 by the foot, so I'll get that and rip the other wire off. And I'll get splicers at harbor freight.

Thanks again

EDIT - remind me why we don't use that park assist button ???
 

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We don't have hardware stores in Miami, except HD and L.

I see that HD sells twisted 20/2 by the foot, so I'll get that and rip the other wire off. And I'll get splicers at harbor freight.

Thanks again

EDIT - remind me why we don't use that park assist button ???
Because Ford “enhanced” your car by decontenting “Park Assist” ?
 

Mark813

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Would it be possible to create buttons like this for popping passenger doors?

Thanks!

Mark
 

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That probably sounds right.
How do you tap a car wire? With some sort of connector that I will google after saving this
I “tap” stranded wire by removing the insulation in a length of 1/2-3/4” for a wire under 22AWG (do not breach the conductor!). I strip the wire going to the target by a similar amount. Split the strands on the existing stripped original wire and insert the tap wire into the resultant gap. Split the conductors in the tap wire and twist them around the existing wire in opposing directions. You can solder or not. If you have twisted the wires properly solder is not necessary. Re-insulate the exposed conductors using tape or liquid tape (if you use liquid tape, ensure proper drying time). ??

I don’t like posi-taps in an environment that is exposed to vibration or shock. ?‍♂?
 

HuntingPudel

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We don't have hardware stores in Miami, except HD and L.

I see that HD sells twisted 20/2 by the foot, so I'll get that and rip the other wire off. And I'll get splicers at harbor freight.

Thanks again

EDIT - remind me why we don't use that park assist button ???
LOL I bought a roll of brown 26 AWG from Amazon for this purpose. The electronics stores that used to be around here went belly-up decades ago. Since this wire pretty much just carries signal (momentary pulse to ground) you can get away with super small gauge wire. ?‍♂?

On the cars that had the park assist hardware, that feature was at best scary. At worst… ugh. I think from 2022 Job2 onward the hardware was removed. ??
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