Buh-Bye Tesla

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Not the most popular accessory, but I added the storage trays over the sub. Thought they might rattle or block the sound a bit but no issues. Don’t think I’d ever need the cargo cover lowered anyway.


Ford Mustang Mach-E Adding a real subwoofer w/amp to your Mach-E IMG_2822
Ford Mustang Mach-E Adding a real subwoofer w/amp to your Mach-E IMG_2821
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highland58

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Where do those storage trays come from? I just had my subwoofer installed at Cartoys since I'm not up to doing that these days. I need to cover it back up now, and will probably put strips of wood with velcro on each side.
 

highland58

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Buh-Bye Tesla

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Yes I’d say it does since it’s resting on the foam.
 


CoppellStereo

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UPDATE 04/07/24:


IMG_9727.jpeg
For the Keyloc, did you just connect the power for it from the wire that you ran for the amp, or did you do a whole new wire for it from the battery? I have the Keyloc and a Kicker 51SH10 waiting to be installed, I might do it this weekend, thank you for all the info on here!
 
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For the Keyloc, did you just connect the power for it from the wire that you ran for the amp, or did you do a whole new wire for it from the battery? I have the Keyloc and a Kicker 51SH10 waiting to be installed, I might do it this weekend, thank you for all the info on here!
Just used the power that I already have going to the sub. No need to run a separate line just for that.
 

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Hi folks, I’m hoping to install a subwoofer but without cutting or tapping into any wires so the mod is 100% reversible.

Could anyone confirm that this is the same connector that’s present in the subwoofer speaker assembly?

EDS WPT-1456 / GU2Z-14S411-FA
https://a.co/d/fM3lU3w

Thanks a lot!
 
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markboris

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Hi folks, I’m hoping to install a subwoofer but without cutting or tapping into any wires so the mod is 100% reversible.

Could anyone confirm that this is the same connector that’s present in the subwoofer speaker assembly?

EDS WPT-1456 / GU2Z-14S411-FA
https://a.co/d/fM3lU3w

Thanks a lot!
Looks like the same connector but I would think unless you actually try it, you would not know for sure.
 

sglewiswl

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For those doing the easy method, here’s my notes for my 24 kicker install:

remove 2 latches back panel: T25
remove 2 bolts lower back panel: 8mm

Mach E:
Subwoofer
Green/Violet +
Gray -

12v outlet:
Purple Power
Green Ground

Kicker Harness Wires:
Solid white and grey tie together to Mach E green violet +

White and grey with black stripe tie together to Mach E Gray -
Would it be possible to find a male plug (I assume male) to unplug the 12v accessory jack and connect to the plug in the car. I don't need the rear accessory jack.
 

TankerRay

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I installed the JL Audio PowerWedge+ ACS110LG-TW1 after finding a sweet Open Box deal on SonicElectronix.com. If anyone ever dents or smashs the grille it pops out easily (no power tools required) and you can straighten it out.

I used this wiring kit and it's 100% copper wire, not CCA. https://a.co/d/0eeagKU6

The OEM subwoofer wires have different colors in my '25 MME GT but that didn't cause any issues.

Routing the power cable through the firewall was easy - after determining the rubber grommet had 2 layers to puncture. I sealed the "outside" grommet layer with black RTV afterwards.

It sounds great! Thanks @markboris for the awesome write-up and all of your follow-up posts.
 

sergiomo

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Hi folks, I’m hoping to install a subwoofer but without cutting or tapping into any wires so the mod is 100% reversible.

Could anyone confirm that this is the same connector that’s present in the subwoofer speaker assembly?

EDS WPT-1456 / GU2Z-14S411-FA
https://a.co/d/fM3lU3w

Thanks a lot!
To follow up on this, it took me a while to get all the parts and tools needed, but I can confirm that this is indeed the right connector. Tips for anyone who wants to use it:
- You’ll need an “open barrel” crimping tool.
- Make sure the inner white plastic part sits all the way towards the back of the connector, otherwise the female plug won’t latch. If the 2 connectors don’t click-in easily, the interior white plastic part isn't pushed deep enough.

This shows the correct final position of the inner white plastic part:
IMG_1521.webp


Also, here’s a reference image of how the OEM subwoofer connector is wired (black is negative, green is positive) you want to match that layout.
IMG_0370.webp


Finally, I’m sharing some notes on how I installed a Kicker HS8 in my 2025 Premium with B&O:
- The connector terminals were crimped directly to the gray signal wires.
- White signal wires were left disconnected.
- Have to use the +12V Auto Turn On mode and connect the blue wire to +12V, otherwise the subwoofer won’t turn on.
- I used this cigarette lighter connector: https://a.co/d/0cWmQVZX
- Input level: Hi
- Phase: 0°
- Bass boost: max 😁
- Crossover: 80 Hz (around the 11 o’clock position)
- Gain: slightly below the second tick mark (around the 10 o’clock position)
IMG_1527.webp



All in all, I’m quite happy with the HS8. It blends nicely with the OEM sound system while still being clearly noticeable. Recommended!
 
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DK_Min

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Just used the power that I already have going to the sub. No need to run a separate line just for that.
@markboris and others with the Keyloc, when tuning which db test tone did you use? 0db, -5db or -10db?

Also, do you remove eq (beosonic to flat) and put it in stereo or surround (if that makes any difference to the curves)?
 

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I'm a little late to the party, but I just picked myself up the JL audio 10" power wedge and bass control knob!

I already prepped the trunk last year with dynamat in anticipation for the sub. Can't wait for the weather to get nicer so I can work on this project.

Question for Mark and anyone else who has added the kicker keyloc device-- is it worth the $150?

Edit: I'm also looking at This amp to power the stock B&O door speakers. Would this be a good choice or are there better options for the $?
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