Adding a real subwoofer w/amp to your Mach-E

[methorian]

I have a JBL BassPro SL 8-Inch 125W RMS that I had in my BMW i3 that I'd like to move over to my Mach-E.

I know it isn't recommended, but in my BMW - I powered the BassPro from the power/wire going to the factory amp in my BMW. Never had an issue, maybe because I don't crank up volume or levels on the sub/etc. Any possibility of doing this in the Mach-E? I'd really rather not have to mess with the firewall or connecting directly to the 12V if possible.

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[markboris]

I have a JBL BassPro SL 8-Inch 125W RMS that I had in my BMW i3 that I'd like to move over to my Mach-E.

I know it isn't recommended, but in my BMW - I powered the BassPro from the power/wire going to the factory amp in my BMW. Never had an issue, maybe because I don't crank up volume or levels on the sub/etc. Any possibility of doing this in the Mach-E? I'd really rather not have to mess with the firewall or connecting directly to the 12V if possible.

I would not connect your BassPro up to the factory amp's power input even though you did in your BMW. What I would do, if you did not want to run a power wire from the battery back, is connect it to the 12 volt power outlet in the cargo area. It has max of 20 amps and your sub also requires 20 amps. This would not be as ideal as connecting directly to the battery but much better than the OEM amp. Since the BassPro has "audio sense" it will turn itself on and off when it gets an audio signal from the OEM sub wiring.

 

[methorian]

I would not connect your BassPro up to the factory amp's power input even though you did in your BMW. What I would do, if you did not want to run a power wire from the battery back, is connect it to the 12 volt power outlet in the cargo area. It has max of 20 amps and your sub also requires 20 amps. This would not be as ideal as connecting directly to the battery but much better than the OEM amp. Since the BassPro has "audio sense" it will turn itself on and off when it gets an audio signal from the OEM sub wiring.

Hadn't thought about the 12V in the rear. Thanks for the recommendation. I would assume the 12V outlets in the Mach-E are all on a shared fuse/circuit? Any idea if that's true?

Would it also be an option to add a fuse and just run power from the fuse box? Sorry if these things have been discussed, just now starting to look into it.

 

[markboris]

Hadn't thought about the 12V in the rear. Thanks for the recommendation. I would assume the 12V outlets in the Mach-E are all on a shared fuse/circuit? Any idea if that's true?

Would it also be an option to add a fuse and just run power from the fuse box? Sorry if these things have been discussed, just now starting to look into it.

The 12 volt outlets are on separate 20 amp fuses. I would just connect to the one in the rear which is already fused.

 

[methorian]

The 12 volt outlets are on separate 20 amp fuses. I would just connect to the one in the rear which is already fused.

Thanks. Will probably give it a go this weekend.

 

[methorian]

The 12 volt outlets are on separate 20 amp fuses. I would just connect to the one in the rear which is already fused.

Using 12v plug wiring worked a treat!

Everything seems to be working well and the sub fit perfectly inside the right of the foam insert.

Sounds much better than stock sub. I left the stock sub connected for now but might end up disconnecting.

 

[markboris]

Using 12v plug wiring worked a treat!

Everything seems to be working well and the sub fit perfectly inside the right of the foam insert.

Sounds much better than stock sub. I left the stock sub connected for now but might end up disconnecting.

That's great and yes I would recommend disconnecting the "mid-bass" boomy OEM sub. You will have to crank up your JBL BassPro a bit more but it has higher quality sound than the OEM, 6x9 flimsy paper sub.

 

[Mach1E]

That's great and yes I would recommend disconnecting the "mid-bass" boomy OEM sub. You will have to crank up your JBL BassPro a bit more but it has higher quality sound than the OEM, 6x9 flimsy paper sub.

I would be surprised if I could hear the difference. I have bass set at half and the JL sub is so much louder, I don’t think I can hear the factory sub anymore.

 

[markboris]

I would be surprised if I could hear the difference. I have bass set at half and the JL sub is so much louder, I don’t think I can hear the factory sub anymore.

I get what you are saying but try disconnecting the OEM sub and then you will ONLY hear the JL which is really what you want. Overall bass will be tighter after removing the boom from the OEM sub.

 

[Mach1E]

I get what you are saying but try disconnecting the OEM sub and then you will ONLY hear the JL which is really what you want. Overall bass will be tighter after removing the boom from the OEM sub.

Probably depends on the sound you’re going for. I went with the ported 10” JL because I like the boomy sound of ported subs.

 

[mwoods8817]

I have the Mach E Premium RWD and I can attest that the OEM sound system is "not bad" but definitely underwhelming (for a car in the $50K+ range and considering the B&O hype). So, after reading the numerous posts in this thread it was somewhat refreshing to hear I wasn't the only person with this sentiment.

Added the 10" PowerWedge (ACS110LG-TW1) a few days ago and I must say I am quite impressed. This thing thumps, trust me. If you're on the fence, don't be. It was almost too much thump at first, but I adjusted the settings (as @markboris suggested) and it sounds great!!! Only difference is I have my input intensity set all the way to low. It fits perfect and is a nice clean setup (few pics below). Worth its weight in gold in my opinion.

Thanks to all for the insightful comments/recommendations!

 

[jgargano44]

@Polar how did you mount the bass control knob? I have the Kicker sub also but my bass knob is one big assembly like below. Was yours the same? It doesn't feel like the knob pulls off.

 

[Polar]

@Polar how did you mount the bass control knob? I have the Kicker sub also but my bass knob is one big assembly like below. Was yours the same? It doesn't feel like the knob pulls off.

The knob does pull off. I thought the same too when I went to work on mounting mine - get a thin flathead and use it as a lever.
Once you have it off take a good look at the design and depth as if your going to hard mount it like @markboris or I did this is a long unit once the cord is attached - you’ll have to line it up space behind it (where the cover attaches)

 

[jgargano44]

The knob does pull off. I thought the same too when I went to work on mounting mine - get a thin flathead and use it as a lever.
Once you have it off take a good look at the design and depth as if your going to hard mount it like @markboris or I did this is a long unit once the cord is attached - you’ll have to line it up space behind it (where the cover attaches)

Ahh, thank you. Got it. I was afraid of using any force as it's plastic.

 

[Justmikeyd]

Thanks for this thread, had a local installer add the JL 10TW1 Microsub and remote to mine today... The surprised me with the remote install, but def not noticeable, and easy enough to access. Very nice upgrade to the low end for sure! Thanks for the writeup and review on this @markboris

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