ChasingCoral

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Cause no. Similar symptoms that point to a common cause, yes. That may be what you meant though.

It sounds like something in technology shared between the Mach E and the F-150 like PAAK, Sync 4, ADAS, etc. The drivetrains are completely different in the Mach E and the F-150 and I'm sure the batteries are different. This brings is down to hardware or software in a peripheral system. If the Mach E and F-150 issues are related, then it's something common between the two. It could be as simple as not turning off the cameras and radars when the car goes to sleep. I would be looking first to those systems in common between those two.
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ChasingCoral

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Other thread seems to indicate that the 12v battery is automatically charged by the HVB. Will just have to see what Ford has to say.

SCPony
Yes but it seems the HVB is only charging the LVB when the system is awake. Charging seems to work for this. Climate control pre-condiitoning might as well.
 

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Ford Questions:
Does this have anything to do with the stop ship?
Is there any consensus on what's causing this and which units are affected?
Is it starting to be more widespread, out side these forums that is?
Is there any sort of of being contemplated yet?
 

Shayne

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Good question. I happen to have one of those 12V meters Tim posted about above and plugged it into my Mach-E:

  • Start up Mach-E: 15V
  • Steady state (I'm guessing after it determines that the 12V battery is full): 13.5V (float charge to keep the 12V battery full)
  • Off: Off
  • Plug in to charge: 15V
  • Charging: 13.5V
  • After charging complete: Off
  • in accessory mode OFF
  • in start (drive) mode ON
Edit your with the two on the bottom added. Could you run a test with your gadget and test when you remotely start it (app) the result.

My 12 V is dead again this morning, will not go in gear and all it does is give me the pops up from hell on the dash monitor. Should of just uplugged and let it freeze up but that was not was recommended on the dash when shutting it down. Rather the 12V for sure. The charger drops out also. Four read squares when detached and reattached. I have to unplug the charger from wall and plug it back it. Twice now and most likely third will be this morning. When it gets replugged it loses the schedule and reset to 100% charge again on the app even thou it is set to 90 in the vehicle. Resetting in car sets it back to 90. I will not be deleting it from saved locations ;). Sent the dealer my first set of picture require his involvement at this stage. Not popping and breaking anything that may not be covered.
 


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Edit your with the two on the bottom added. Could you run a test with your gadget and test when you remotely start it (app) the result.

My 12 V is dead again this morning, will not go in gear and all it does is give me the pops up from hell on the dash monitor. Should of just uplugged and let it freeze up but that was not was recommended on the dash when shutting it down. Rather the 12V for sure. The charger drops out also. Four read squares when detached and reattached. I have to unplug the charger from wall and plug it back it. Twice now and most likely third will be this morning. When it gets replugged it loses the schedule and reset to 100% charge again on the app even thou it is set to 90 in the vehicle. Resetting in car sets it back to 90. I will not be deleting it from saved locations ;). Sent the dealer my first set of picture require his involvement at this stage. Not popping and breaking anything that may not be covered.
Sure....
Very interesting:
  • Remote start: off--all displays are off so I'd expect the cig lighter sockets to be off as well (note that this doesn't mean that the 12V battery isn't getting charged just that the socket is off)
  • Acc mode, plugged in: 15V--Didn't think the DC-DC came on here but it does this also indicates the HVB contactors must close as well (even though I never get heat out of the vents brrrr)
  • Acc mode, not plugged in: 14.8V--either the DC-DC output is set lower or something else is going on (more current draw or not as much power available from DC-DC because A/C isn't plugged in!? don't know)
Wow If you can get it started I'd take it right back to the dealer..
 

Shayne

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Sure....
Very interesting:
  • Remote start: off--all displays are off so I'd expect the cig lighter sockets to be off as well (note that this doesn't mean that the 12V battery isn't getting charged just that the socket is off)
  • Acc mode, plugged in: 15V--Didn't think the DC-DC came on here but it does this also indicates the HVB contactors must close as well (even though I never get heat out of the vents brrrr)
  • Acc mode, not plugged in: 14.8V--either the DC-DC output is set lower or something else is going on (more current draw or not as much power available from DC-DC because A/C isn't plugged in!? don't know)
Can you do us a favor and post the complete list when done in a new thread and we should sticky it.
 

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Last edited:

Shayne

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Sure....
Very interesting:
  • Remote start: off--all displays are off so I'd expect the cig lighter sockets to be off as well (note that this doesn't mean that the 12V battery isn't getting charged just that the socket is off)
  • Acc mode, plugged in: 15V--Didn't think the DC-DC came on here but it does this also indicates the HVB contactors must close as well (even though I never get heat out of the vents brrrr)
  • Acc mode, not plugged in: 14.8V--either the DC-DC output is set lower or something else is going on (more current draw or not as much power available from DC-DC because A/C isn't plugged in!? don't know)
Wow If you can get it started I'd take it right back to the dealer..
Looking at combinations. Remote start when plugged in charging, plug in not charging, and when not plugged in. The combination go on and on. So.
  • After charging complete: Off and
    • Remote start: off--all displays are off so I'd expect the cig lighter sockets to be off as well.
Some could be charging the 12v but no power to the cigarette lighter. That would be a conservative error until further info.

So after you charge it to your preferred charge level and then remote start it stands to reason it is not charging the 12V and not a double negative. You would think the connection should be made to the 12v during start up and charge it. It's is not the sky is falling type of problem but it is not something I am not willing to live with forever. Could be a simple software tweak that fixes this problem. Power drain on the MME is now like FordPass had.
 

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so let me ask you this, would it be possible to put a pigtail wire attached to those two points so that you wouldn't need to remove the panel next time it happened, ie the pigtail would be in the frunk? I'm talking about the kind used with a battery tender type setup. Like this?

11983138_shu_wm12_pri_larg.jpg
I have that setup on all three of my antique cars that don't get driven much. Sounds like my MME will get one, too.
 

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Looking at combinations. Remote start when plugged in charging, plug in not charging, and when not plugged in. The combination go on and on. So.
  • After charging complete: Off and
    • Remote start: off--all displays are off so I'd expect the cig lighter sockets to be off as well.
Some could be charging the 12v but no power to the cigarette lighter. That would be a conservative error until further info.

So after you charge it to your preferred charge level and then remote start it stands to reason it is not charging the 12V and not a double negative. You would think the connection should be made to the 12v during start up and charge it. It's is not the sky is falling type of problem but it is not something I am not willing to live with forever. Could be a simple software tweak that fixes this problem. Power drain on the MME is now like FordPass had.
Since I'm measuring the voltage at the cigarette lighter it is entirely possible that the battery *is* charging but power to the lighter socket is off.
 

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I have that setup on all three of my antique cars that don't get driven much. Sounds like my MME will get one, too.
Just like my dads stock model A out the rumple seat ?. Yep if I could get to the 12V easily the small agm high tech computerized charger would be on it in the frunck already. That retrofit should come from Ford if required when this gets worked out. Hope service has good luck popping panels off the frunck. I am not buggering them up for someone to tell me no one told you to do that. Do not have the contacts that Mark seems to have.
 

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Something to think about - we've discussed how the 12V frunk release only functions with a dead 12V battery - it is locked out by a relay when the 12V battery is healthy. This means that the lockout relay is constantly energized by the 12V battery. We don't know the specs on this relay, but the coil has to use some amount of power. If the car sits long enough without something charging the 12V battery, it's going to die. Not if, but when. Will it take a week to die? a month? two months?
 
 




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