[Guide] Better Jump Point Access (Battery Access)

[ThomF]

It could be printed pony side up but there'd be a lot of supports underneath. It'd waste a lot of plastic.

My thoughts exactly. Perhaps the logo could be embedded into the cap, rather than raised. But I know that's a fair amount of work. Your design looks awesome, however.

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[DevSecOps]

My thoughts exactly. Perhaps the logo could be embedded into the cap, rather than raised. But I know that's a fair amount of work. Your design looks awesome, however.

That's a good idea. I did a quick revision embossed and tonight I'll print it.

Additionally, I printed it each time so far using PETG with no support and it works fine. You don't need the support because it builds a bridge and it's on the underside of the cap so you'll never see the strands.

I am printing with a raise3d Pro3 plus. That shouldn't matter though.

 

[Chuck]

That's a good idea. I'll do a revision tonight inverted and check it out.

Additionally, I printed it each time so far using PETG with no support and it works fine. You don't need the support because it builds a bridge and it's on the underside of the cap so you'll never see the strands.

Also, it could be a solid cylinder with both a top and bottom with low infill. That way the pony could be on top. I think a proud pony would look better than an embossed one.

 

[DevSecOps]

Also, it could be a solid cylinder with both a top and bottom with low infill. That way the pony could be on top. I think a proud pony would look better than an embossed one.

Printing the cap isn't the problem. It prints fine. The issue is the fact that it's a typical ugly 3D print and hard to sand when it's proud. Embossed however would make the surface easy to sand.

I could do chemical smoothing with ABS, but other materials like PLA and Polysmooth wouldn't be great on a vehicle and the tabs would likely break.

 

[Neil4Real]

Your post was very helpful. I used the template, without removing the panel. It worked reasonably well. However the opening for the positive terminal is off a bit--should be a little lower (toward the front of the vehicle). But it looks like it will still work OK.

I ended up just using the photos @ChasingCoral posted with his caps off instead of the template and eyeballed it. The first time I did it, and messed up using the hole saw, I went from the top because I didn't want to take the trim off, but when I got a new trim piece and had no choice, I went from the back and it was way cleaner and easier to sand it down so the caps go in and out easier.

 

[Neil4Real]

Printing the cap isn't the problem. It prints fine. The issue is the fact that it's a typical ugly 3D print and hard to sand when it's proud. Embossed however would make the surface easy to sand.

I could do chemical smoothing with ABS, but other materials like PLA and Polysmooth wouldn't be great on a vehicle and the tabs would likely break.

If you figure it out, I'd love to buy a set off you! They look super awesome!!

 

[DevSecOps]

Ok so I basically gave up on printing the cap because for whatever reason I hadn't thought of cutting the logo and instead I joined it. So I ran one build cutting it .5mm into the lid and when sanding it destroyed the look of the logo. So then I went back to the drawing board and increased the lip and center circle .5mm above the embossed logo. This makes it so that the logo surface sits .5mm from the finish surface for a total of 1mm depth. This allowed me to sand it without hitting the logo and appears to be the best.

Unfortunately, my Raise3D machine is on a big job that has 5 days left. So I used my FlashForge 3 Pro and it doesn't print as precise as the Raise3D. Being that it's a lesser resolution and since I'm prototyping you can see where it's not all the way sanded. But at this point I'm looking at viability not production ready. I think when my Raise3D machine is free I'll print in a higher resolution and I think it will be perfect!

Below surface cut:

At the surface:

 

[timmyboy]

Has anyone tried using a step drill bit to do this? I'd rather not pull off the whole cover including all of the tabs, and a step drill bit helps you to control depth easily. How much spacing is there between the cover and the wiring / etc. below the cover? Would this step drill bit (drilled to 2") touch any of that?

Here's what I am referring to - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CMPH9VY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A32FL4O5Z8G8DU&psc=1

 

[DevSecOps]

Has anyone tried using a step drill bit to do this? I'd rather not pull off the whole cover including all of the tabs, and a step drill bit helps you to control depth easily. How much spacing is there between the cover and the wiring / etc. below the cover? Would this step drill bit (drilled to 2") touch any of that?

Here's what I am referring to - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CMPH9VY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A32FL4O5Z8G8DU&psc=1

That's going to be deeper than a hole-saw by the time you get to the required size. If you're that worried about it use a forstner bit which should have slightly less of a protrusion on the underside. Many members have drilled the holes without removing the panels.

 

[dtbaker61]

Has anyone tried using a step drill bit to do this? I'd rather not pull off the whole cover including all of the tabs, and a step drill bit helps you to control depth easily. How much spacing is there between the cover and the wiring / etc. below the cover? Would this step drill bit (drilled to 2") touch any of that?

Here's what I am referring to - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CMPH9VY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A32FL4O5Z8G8DU&psc=1

there is only an inch or two clearance between bottom of panel, and connectors.

I would NOT recommend a step-bit because of the depth, and going thru plastic; hole saw will work better, and pilot only sticks about 1/2" thru. cut slow to prevent plastic from melting.

 

[luckie]

Yes, Dan did a write up on this back in March https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/how-to-add-access-ports-for-lvb-connection-points.4107/

It is interesting to see the different ways people use to achieve the same result though. When I did mine, I wanted to make sure I still saw the "+" symbol on the panel when I got done drilling the hole which most people seem to eliminate because they want to be right over the positive terminal connection. I drilled my hole slightly to the right so I could retain that symbol and my clamp fits down inside and connects to that positive terminal.

OK, I know it's been some time since Nov 1 2021 when you did this modification, but what approach/measurements did you use to get such a perfect result? AND Where did you buy the hole plugs since they match so well? Greatly appreciate any info or additional photos.

 

[DevSecOps]

OK, I know it's been some time since Nov 1 2021 when you did this modification, but what approach/measurements did you use to get such a perfect result? AND Where did you buy the hole plugs since they match so well? Greatly appreciate any info or additional photos.

Did you read the very first post? It has all the measurements and others have even provided templates.

Also in this thread are the hole covers which can be found here: Baomain Plastic Locking Hole Plugs Panel Hole Diameter 2" (50mm) Black HP-50 Pack of 25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M62AIET/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_J74NWKN5VA02DXTY8G3T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[luckie]

Did you read the very first post? It has all the measurements and others have even provided templates.

Also in this thread are the hole covers which can be found here: Baomain Plastic Locking Hole Plugs Panel Hole Diameter 2" (50mm) Black HP-50 Pack of 25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M62AIET/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_J74NWKN5VA02DXTY8G3T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the quick info OP (DevSecOps). I've read from the start and from other threads. I'm gathering my equipment and supplies. I was just impressed with the perfect aesthetic of Mark Boris's work and interested in his measurements. He likely just eyeballed/teaked his pilot hole after learning from your measurements and helpful steps.

 

[markboris]

Thanks for the quick info OP (DevSecOps). I've read from the start and from other threads. I'm gathering my equipment and supplies. I was just impressed with the perfect aesthetic of Mark Boris's work and interested in his measurements. He likely just eyeballed/teaked his pilot hole after learning from your measurements and helpful steps.

Correct. That is exactly what I did. ^^^

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