Another GTPE Bites the Dust After 22S41!

agoldman

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Got the 22S41 update on Thursday. Only drove a few miles locally Friday with no issues. Did a 170 mile roundtrip today and 1/4 mile from home, the wrench popped up and the power was severely limited. I did a quick accel up the hill by my house when it happened, but not WOT. Seems this update will basically cause every car to reach the SVS. I guess I'll be off to the dealer now.
I agree from what we have seen here so far. Got mine on regular GT yesterday. I think this just hastens the need for the full recall part. Either way pain in the butt...
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newmme

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Looking forward to reading the media articles next week after they review these HVBJB threads and pepper Ford with question
I don't think you will see much of this. Most of the MME issues have gone unreported.
 

Guss-E 2021

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So does fused closed equate to providing no power while fused open the opposite? I'm not entirely clear on the role the contactor plays in providing power to the car.
 

heisnuts

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Would you recommend someone purchase an AWD 2022 mach-e?

Asking for a friend...
I would also buy it again, and I am speaking as someone who had their HVBJB fail on them in May. I also don't see buying ICE again in the future as a daily driver. Assuming you have a home and/or work charging option EVs have come to the point where they are suitable for 99% of driving requirements and they just handle the daily driving conditions much better than their ICE counterparts.

You don't realize just how much nice an EV is vs an ICE vehicle until you drive it for several weeks. I am a great example of this. In May, 2021, I received my new Corvette that I ordered almost a year before that. Today the Corvette has almost 8,000 miles on it and my MME that I took delivery 5 months ago now has almost 11,000 miles on it (and work is only a 17 mile round trip). Yes, the Corvette is still a lot of fun to drive in the back roads, but having the MME has taken that fun level down just a bit. I take the MME out in the same back roads all the time and there is just something there that I do not get in the Corvette. There is also a lot more comfort and enjoyment when it comes to driving the MME in daily traffic situations or when the weather isn't sunny and dry, which is more often than not up here in the Pacific Northwest.

I think it would be wise to keep an ICE vehicle in the family lineup for at least the next 3 to 5 years for that 1% where EVs can be challenging, but even for that 1% there are options to get around the challenges.
 

dtbaker61

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mkhuffman

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So does fused closed equate to providing no power while fused open the opposite? I'm not entirely clear on the role the contactor plays in providing power to the car.
Fused open means the contactor cannot close and connect the high voltage battery to the car. If that happened while driving, which would be unusual because the contactor is closed the entire time the car is on, the car would stop immediately. It could be like slamming on the brakes (I think) but as far as I know that hasn't happened to anyone. It usually melts in the closed position, but sometimes it gets stuck in the open position after you turn off the car.

There are four contactors. Two are used for the positive and negative HV battery connection. One of those fails because it overheats while driving.
 

mkhuffman

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how do you get wheels to spin?
turn off traction control?
mine just squats and launches.....
;)
The road was wet yesterday, but I have made them spin a little when launching up a hill. It is always the front tires that spin, and it is just a brief spin and then they dig in.
 

dtbaker61

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So does fused closed equate to providing no power while fused open the opposite? I'm not entirely clear on the role the contactor plays in providing power to the car.
a contactor is basically a big fat switch.
Turning the car ON, should power a little internal 12v relay coil which closes the big fat switch inside the contactor. When you key-off, 12v power to coil is cut, and contactor opens.

good contact between the 'faces' of the contactor is needed to pass current thru the circuit between HV battery, and inverter-controller-motor and dcdc converter. If the faces are pitted, warped, or not making good contact.... arcing and/or higher resistance from limited contact area and drive up the internal temperature.

Problems occur if the contacts separate while under load. Problems get worse with higher loads as there can be arcing and subsequent welding.

If 12v relay fails from high temps, by melting internal coil insulation and shorting for instance, it can no longer hold the switch closed, which pops open.... and opens the circuit, and no more current can flow, and you can't extract any propulsion power from HV when you turn the car ON again. Failing OPEN, means no power to motor, or dc-dc, which means you have very limited 12v power for display and other systems because of the little 12v battery, and then your vehicle 'bricked'.

UNLESS, the contactor fails and tries to open while under heavy load, which tries to continue passing current as it opens, which can create momentatary internal arcing, which pits and damages the contacts, or can weld them together before it can open like an internal arc welder.... failing 'closed' in which case you cannot turn the car OFF and all the warning bells go off.
 
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Guss-E 2021

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Thanks guys (@mkhuffman and @dtbaker61 ) now I get it. Can we now officially call it the MachE's "big fat switch" :)
 

blackjack99

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So I have a question for the group..my vehicle is schedule for production 7/25 (order date 3/17). Has FORD actually redesigned the HVBJB or are they using up the old stock until they can produce a beefier HVBJB component. The software update appears to be a bandaid that allow for the car to still be driven albeit with diminished performance. I am concerned that my new Mach E will have this old part and I will be destined for a failure....Thoughts?
 

Electric Goat

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So I have a question for the group..my vehicle is schedule for production 7/25 (order date 3/17). Has FORD actually redesigned the HVBJB or are they using up the old stock until they can produce a beefier HVBJB component. The software update appears to be a bandaid that allow for the car to still be driven albeit with diminished performance. I am concerned that my new Mach E will have this old part and I will be destined for a failure....Thoughts?
You don't have anything to worry about. You'll have the new part.
 
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Shayne

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Sorry I cannot read all of the replies quickly enough :)

I still think stuck-open is a possibility, even if it is more rare. Think we should leave this at Ford's word to regulators, where there can be significant consequences to them as a company if they make material omissions or misrepresentations.
Mine froze open a number of times and that eventually kills the 12V. I am not sure if the 12V builds up resistance and therefore it will not close? But this is sitting still and plugged in. The only way I think they could be opened after they close and you start driving is them to melt open. Not seeing how they would spring open and stick. Really wondering if the extreme temps you get down there is contributing?

Never stranded me driving just parked.

Code:
============1==============
P0AA2
Raw code: 0AA2
ECU: 7EC
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Hybrid battery positive contactor - circuit stuck open

============7==============
P0AA2(00)
Raw code: 0AA200
ECU: 7EC[Archive (inactive)]
Status: Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear
OBDII: Hybrid battery positive contactor - circuit stuck open

============47==============
P0AA1(00)
Raw code: 0AA100
ECU: 7EC
Status: Test not completed during this operation cycle
OBDII: Hybrid battery positive contactor - circuit stuck closed

============326==============
P0AA2(00)
Raw code: 0AA200
ECU: BECM[Archive (inactive)]
Status: Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear
OBDII: Hybrid battery positive contactor - circuit stuck open
and so on for well over a year and not sure if it is fixed yet to date. Not like they have not know about this for awhile. At least I have a new A part now 👍 maybe good for another 6 months or maybe it was a defective BECM and I am now fixed? Just gave up looking and now just driving it. If it craps again I will deal with it. The trill is gone the wind is out of the sails a bit. However I just toke 2 12 year old's out for their first EV drive and they kept saying can you do it again with the biggest smiles on there faces comparing it to there roller coaster ride. WOT here we go. 8 years 100000 miles I think this e-drive train will need to be fixed.

Appears they yanked the anti-virus recall program so maybe a super duper software fix still in the pipes. Always easy to fix defective hardware with software. I use my trusty ram fix software all the time. That straightens out defective ram ;) . We will see how it goes.

Mine failed as I was accelerating onto the road (in front of a tesla) out of my neighborhood. I was able to turn off the road onto the next street without hesitation as I knew exactly what was happening because of this forum.
Stuck open or melted and closed?
 

AlbanyIan

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Last edited:

VegStang

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stuck open, managed to get it restarted after a few attempts, then stuck for 5 days until time to drive to dealer for new part.

Mine froze open a number of times and that eventually kills the 12V. I am not sure if the 12V builds up resistance and therefore it will not close? But this is sitting still and plugged in. The only way I think they could be opened after they close and you start driving is them to melt open. Not seeing how they would spring open and stick. Really wondering if the extreme temps you get down there is contributing?

Never stranded me driving just parked.

Code:
============1==============
P0AA2
Raw code: 0AA2
ECU: 7EC
Status: Confirmed
OBDII: Hybrid battery positive contactor - circuit stuck open

============7==============
P0AA2(00)
Raw code: 0AA200
ECU: 7EC[Archive (inactive)]
Status: Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear
OBDII: Hybrid battery positive contactor - circuit stuck open

============47==============
P0AA1(00)
Raw code: 0AA100
ECU: 7EC
Status: Test not completed during this operation cycle
OBDII: Hybrid battery positive contactor - circuit stuck closed

============326==============
P0AA2(00)
Raw code: 0AA200
ECU: BECM[Archive (inactive)]
Status: Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear
OBDII: Hybrid battery positive contactor - circuit stuck open
and so on for well over a year and not sure if it is fixed yet to date. Not like they have not know about this for awhile. At least I have a new A part now 👍 maybe good for another 6 months or maybe it was a defective BECM and I am now fixed? Just gave up looking and now just driving it. If it craps again I will deal with it. The trill is gone the wind is out of the sails a bit. However I just toke 2 12 year old's out for their first EV drive and they kept saying can you do it again with the biggest smiles on there faces comparing it to there roller coaster ride. WOT here we go. 8 years 100000 miles I think this e-drive train will need to be fixed.

Appears they yanked the anti-virus recall program so maybe a super duper software fix still in the pipes. Always easy to fix defective hardware with software. I use my trusty ram fix software all the time. That straightens out defective ram ;) . We will see how it goes.


Stuck open or melted and closed?
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