when was the repair done ? (date)
In my situation, I'll see those errors and it will disable for a time but if there's multiple instances (ie. bumpy road) it will disable permanently until the car is turned off/back on! I've had it in the dealer and they did make it better for a time, but now the problem is back... I'll have to take matters into my own hands!
Followup 6w later - no more problems. I’ve had zero errors since the cable replacement.
Thx for the update . I have the same problem and have decided to fix it myself since I am out of warranty and don't feel like paying ~$3k to fix it. I have pulled the cover and checked for camera excessive play but it is fine. I've tried moving the coaxial cable near the connection but also no difference. I probably will have to replace the cable but I can't figure out how to disconnect it from the camera. I'm sure it is simple and I don't want to destroy it or damage the camera. I've searched the forum and internet but haven't found any specific detail on how to disconnect it.
I can't tell, but if that cable is bent backwards in a hairpin loop, that's your issue. The minimum bend radius should be about 1.5 inches or more. That means a 180º turn needs to be a 3" circle.I finally got back to this today.
I did figure out how to disconnect the coax cable from the camera. Basically the yellow piece of plastic is what needs to be removed to allow the brown piece which contains the coax connector to unplug. The connector drawings attached previously show a tab to depress to unlock the yellow piece from the brown piece. In my case, either by design or whether it was purposely broken off at the factory, the tab to depress was MIA. So I had to use a very small screwdriver to unlock the yellow piece. There are 2 "barbs", one on either side of the bottom of the yellow piece that must be deflected enough to allow the piece to slide out to the right. Once the yellow piece is removed, the brown piece and the coax connecter can be pulled off the camera. See attached photos.
I will digress slightly at this point. I have no intention of replacing the camera or the cable at this time. Before I get to replacing things, I simply wanted see if I could separate the coax from the camera, and to try a couple of other things that have been suggested on other "front camera fault" threads (there are many of these) to fix this issue.
Every time I have popped off the interior cover and messed with the coax cable. it seems to work fine again for a while, but eventually goes right back to failing. So I figured; what if the coax cable was wiggling around in the camera connector? Since my 21' GTPE is sprung like a log wagon, everything in the car vibrates when going over railroad tracks/potholes. So I decided to tighten up this connection. How? The coax termination is quite small and just presses in (not a screw-in connection) and did feel loose. Not much to do to tighten up the center conductor, but the shield connection is made by 4 little leaf springs around the outside of the connector (female). So I pushed in on these 4 little leaf springs until I sprung them slightly to create a tighter fit. Now the coax connector feels much more solid when it it reattaches to the camera and shouldn't vibrate wildly.
The second thing was something suggested on another thread, and that is a "foam sandwich" around the cable, between the camera body and the point where the cable disappears above the headliner. I put two or three layers of foam above the cable, between the cable and the roof of the car, and two more layers between the bottom of the cable and the trim cover.
Allegedly this will hold everything firmly in place, also preventing movement/vibration.
Interesting factoid: There is no separate connection to the camera providing power to the camera. The only connection to the camera is the coax cable. Which means that the power to the camera comes through the coax and the video signal from the camera travels on the same conductor. Any vibration that causes connection integrity issues here affects both the signal and the power! This connection must me rock solid. So I figure why not make this as robust as possible. Tighten the coax connector, and keep it from vibrating. Belt and suspenders. See more attached photos of all the things and the tools I used. I made the "sandwich" (simple white packaging foam) hang down a bit and then when the interior trim piece is reinstalled, the "sandwich" is compressed slightly, holding everything solid.
After putting everything back together, I took the car out for a drive on my least favorite piece of rough and bumpy interstate and across some nasty RR tracks. So far no faults and BlueCruise was solid.
I'm not going to call this fixed until I can get past 1 or 2 or 6 months without a camera fault. If this doesn't do it, next step is cable replacement. Will advise again in 1 week.
Cheers, Tim
