Deep Sleep Mode - 12v battery drained dead [update: Mach-E jump started]

[ChasingCoral]

Does the rear panel really need to be taken off too? I haven't touched them in mine yet but it seems like the + is the main one you need full access to under the side panel, and maybe the exposed - pole (which is just frame ground) might be accessible from there?

Or can you not even get the side panel off without removing the rear first?

Also seems like connecting the - to any metal frame spot might work?

Take a gander under the hood. The Left Luggage Compartment panel sits over part of the the Rear Luggage Compartment panel. That's why you have to remove both.

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[ChasingCoral]

Thank you to everyone who responded and helped (especially @TheVirtualTim) -- got the frunk open and it jump started successfully. Letting it sit there with power on (turned off the auto power-off at 30 minutes) -- I assume it will charge and keep charged the LVB at all times when the car is turned on (otherwise it wouldn't really be able to support those dual 20A 12V sockets, you'd run through the LVB real quick).

I've had less luck getting a Ford dealership (all of whom are selling the ME but claim they don't know how to service it) to be receptive to updating the software. Got one to agree to take it with the condition that it may be several days or "a while" before I get it back. Will push them to call the Zone Rep to get access to the necessary software update since it's not tied to the VIN.

Ford will probably have to send a Field Service Engineer out to the dealership to do this if the service personnel are not properly trained.

 

[ChasingCoral]

Coming from my Chevy Bolt, there was a single OTA, once, and all other times (before and after that OTA) the car software had to be updated at the dealership. I know from other threads that Ford is beta testing an OTA update right now. Do we think that this car is like (I think, never had one) Tesla, in that all of the car software can be updated OTA?

Given how clueless dealers are around here, and how they're saying that "it may be a while" to get the car back to me for a simple software update, I'm just wondering what the likelihood is that the upcoming OTA will fix this (or an upcoming one later), in which case I may just hold on to it and not leave it plugged in when not actively charging. In the meantime dealers might actually get their act together with respect to servicing them.

The dead LVB will probably mean the 21B02 software update needs to be applied. Your dealer might have known to do this if they checked OASIS. However, it's also possible your car was outside the range of VINs known to need this issue.

21B02 requires the car be on a 12v charger during the update to make sure it installs properly. That means it has to be done at the dealership.

 

[Finkerton]

Thanks for that info @ChasingCoral , it's really helpful.

After the jump and subsequently keeping the power on for a while, things seem back to normal except that it is saying to service vehicle soon (orange alert) and "SHIFT SYSTEM FAULT" (red alert). From this and other threads it seems like when the LVB is dying it triggers all sorts of faults, so I'm guessing that this is likely ignorable until the software is updated.

Anyone know how to clear it, though?

 

[TheVirtualTim]

Do we think that this car is like (I think, never had one) Tesla, in that all of the car software can be updated OTA?

Given how clueless dealers are around here, and how they're saying that "it may be a while" to get the car back to me for a simple software update, I'm just wondering what the likelihood is that the upcoming OTA will fix this (or an upcoming one later), in which case I may just hold on to it and not leave it plugged in when not actively charging. In the meantime dealers might actually get their act together with respect to servicing them.

All of the modules on the car can be updated via OTA. But the update would need to be packaged for delivery as an OTA ... due to differences in the delivery method (it's not the same as plugging a laptop into a car to flash a module).

While I believe they push an OTA to an individual VIN number ... it's mostly meant for pushing OTA's en-masse to lots of VIN numbers (which I believe they can do by VIN pattern or VIN range as well).

BUT... the module responsible for downloading and applying OTA updates runs on the 12v battery and you wouldn't want to rely on that method if the 12v battery is nearly dead. The battery needs to be charged before applying the update.

So I'm not sure if this particular update will be available as an OTA ... my guess (and I don't work for Ford and while I have spoken to Ron and his engineers they have not communicated anything about this particular update to me w.r.t. OTA stuff) ... but my "guess" is that this update would require visiting a dealer to have them put a battery charger on the 12v to bring it up to near full and then flashing the car locally.

In other words, I wouldn't do nothing with the assumption that the update will eventually just show up via OTA update.

If your car reports the deep-sleep -- or just starts spewing lots of error codes (which is really a result of a nearly dead 12v battery), I'd contact the dealer for the update.

At MY particular dealer, the service writers are not especially up-to-date on the car. They have ONE particular mechanic who has far more training than anyone else on this car (anytime this car needs something it always goes to that same person.) THAT person knows how to contact Ford if they have a question.

So the notion of talking to a dealer and they know nothing ... may just be the barrier of you talking to a service writer and not talking to the mechanic with special training on the car. IF they sell the Mach-E then my guess is that they probably have at least one person who has gone through extra training for this car.

 

[Kamuelaflyer]

Any chance one could charge the 12V battery with those leads...?

No. @SnBGC might have the detailed info, but IIRC, all attaching a 12-volt source to those leads does is allow a check to be performed to ensure the car LVB is really dead and then it releases both latches on the hood.

 

[Finkerton]

BUT... the module responsible for downloading and applying OTA updates runs on the 12v battery and you wouldn't want to rely on that method if the 12v battery is nearly dead. The battery needs to be charged before applying the update.

Understood. The battery seems fully charged now after I left the car on and walked away for a couple of hours. But yeah, I get that it's not necessarily for sure going to show up in an OTA.

So the notion of talking to a dealer and they know nothing ... may just be the barrier of you talking to a service writer and not talking to the mechanic with special training on the car. IF they sell the Mach-E then my guess is that they probably have at least one person who has gone through extra training for this car.

I've had two dealers tell me that "we're going to get trained on this but we aren't yet" and two more tell me that they sell the car but "haven't had anyone bring it in for service yet including routine maintenance" by way of explaining that they don't know and (it seems) don't care. All four are selling it.

I'm starting to call them and reference the specific bulletin and ask them, since they don't know how to fix it, if they'd be able to schedule an appointment with a field service technician...

 

[SnBGC]

No. @SnBGC might have the detailed info, but IIRC, all attaching a 12-volt source to those leads does is allow a check to be performed to ensure the car LVB is really dead and then it releases both latches on the hood.

The wiring diagram is very confusing to me. I'll need to study it a bit more. If these two terminals are connected then in theory it should be possible to charge the LVB from those two wires but the Service Manual says otherwise. I think I need to see if I can find a schematic of this particular relay....

 

[ChasingCoral]

All of the modules on the car can be updated via OTA. But the update would need to be packaged for delivery as an OTA ... due to differences in the delivery method (it's not the same as plugging a laptop into a car to flash a module).

While I believe they push an OTA to an individual VIN number ... it's mostly meant for pushing OTA's en-masse to lots of VIN numbers (which I believe they can do by VIN pattern or VIN range as well).

BUT... the module responsible for downloading and applying OTA updates runs on the 12v battery and you wouldn't want to rely on that method if the 12v battery is nearly dead. The battery needs to be charged before applying the update.

So I'm not sure if this particular update will be available as an OTA ... my guess (and I don't work for Ford and while I have spoken to Ron and his engineers they have not communicated anything about this particular update to me w.r.t. OTA stuff) ... but my "guess" is that this update would require visiting a dealer to have them put a battery charger on the 12v to bring it up to near full and then flashing the car locally.

In other words, I wouldn't do nothing with the assumption that the update will eventually just show up via OTA update.

If your car reports the deep-sleep -- or just starts spewing lots of error codes (which is really a result of a nearly dead 12v battery), I'd contact the dealer for the update.

At MY particular dealer, the service writers are not especially up-to-date on the car. They have ONE particular mechanic who has far more training than anyone else on this car (anytime this car needs something it always goes to that same person.) THAT person knows how to contact Ford if they have a question.

So the notion of talking to a dealer and they know nothing ... may just be the barrier of you talking to a service writer and not talking to the mechanic with special training on the car. IF they sell the Mach-E then my guess is that they probably have at least one person who has gone through extra training for this car.

I think you'll find the details in this thread:
https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...1b02-recall-software-calibration-update.3364/
The instructions call for dealer installation while on a charger.

 

[SebastienMachE]

The wiring diagram is very confusing to me. I'll need to study it a bit more. If these two terminals are connected then in theory it should be possible to charge the LVB from those two wires but the Service Manual says otherwise. I think I need to see if I can find a schematic of this particular relay....

Where is that drawing coming from? And please explain where in this dwg are the bumper terminals?

 

[generaltso]

I wonder if an OBDII adapter like this could be used to charge the LVB without having to remove the panels in the frunk.

Amazon.com: NOCO GC012 X-Connect OBD-II Adapter Accessory For NOCO Genius Smart Battery Chargers: Automotive

 

[Wardmoranfamily]

UPDATE 4

I turned the car on this morning and the Power train fault disappeared from the dashboard and no longer appears in the Ford Pass App. I am going to keep an eye on it today. The temperature now is -18 outside, so it will be interesting to see what happens while I'm here at work. Praying it starts or Ford Roadside will be getting a call and straight to the dealer.




UPDATE 3

The powertrain light that popped when looking in the manual on page 150 is under the the "high voltage battery" header. Wonder if it wasn't charging the 12v enough. My vehicle was built Jan 9. Did not go to speedway. It had religiously been on the charger every night since I got it Wednesday due to the extreme cold Temps. Outside it has been lows of -22 with a high of 0 for Saturday into Sunday and now Monday. I also had it precondition before I'd go anywhere while still plugged in. It's 22 above in my garage.

UPDATE 2

Thank you everyone for the responses and help. I've had this portable jump starter for two years and never used it for my ICE cars. Just had it and charged ready to go. I opened the front bumper panel, connected the reds and blacks, frunk opened. Then the fun part began. Taking off the back panel then windshield washer side panel. What a pain in the ass. Two of the clips are now somewhere under the hood for the back panel.

Jump started a car, my very first time, and she came back to life. HOWEVER, now I have the same powertrain issue Savage has. Made appointment with dealer already online. Thank you again everyone!! Will update when my dealer figures it out.

UPDATE 1

Added info on unlocking vehicle if 12v battery dies - posted by @ay221

How to unlock my vehicle if the 12 volt battery is dead?You must apply 12 volt power to the 12 volt system -- directions: Jump Starting the Vehicle




ORIGINAL POST

Temps in MM have gone down to -22 degrees. I left the MME plugged in all night to charge and went to leave just now and it's a brick. Can't get in, can't do anything. Ford App says deep sleep in effect. How do I wake it?!

I have just purchased a mach e. I have a stage 2 charger at home where my car is plugged in. I have left the key fob in the car, and have the Ford pass on my phone.
after 8 days, my car was on the charger and at 100% . Had the cabin temp set for 815am, got the alert it was at temp. Didn’t drive the car as it’s spring break here and no school! Went to use the car at 245pm,and the car was in deep sleep mode.
towed to Ford, jumped it to get hood open,used electric door code to enter The car. 36 hours later same thing.
they are saying it’s because the key fob has been left in the car and is draining the battery. I think it’s a software issue. Has anyone else left their fob in their car and able to comment?

 

[sockmeister]

I wonder if an OBDII adapter like this could be used to charge the LVB without having to remove the panels in the frunk.

Amazon.com: NOCO GC012 X-Connect OBD-II Adapter Accessory For NOCO Genius Smart Battery Chargers: Automotive

I've used a 12V solar panel charger to keep my 12v topped off in my old Mustang. Worked great. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/ECO-WORTHY-Portable-Battery-Charger-Batteries/dp/B015ZGDYII/ref=mp_s_a_1_3

 

[JellyBelly]

I had not used my car for several days and then the message appeared each morning when I opened the Ford Pass app. Being retired I have no set schedule for driving. I just wonder what will happen when I go 30 to 45 days without driving once we‘re able to go on cruises again??

This happened to me too when getting PPF work done - you can avoid these messages by just plugging the car in to home charger.

Its a different issue when going away for 30 days plus - I believe the instructions tell you to keep charge rate to 50% and plug the car in. I would add daily preconditioning as well . This is if if you leave it at home. If you you park it at the airport for a month - all bets are off - you are looking at getting jump started at a minimum

 

[Maquis]

I have just purchased a mach e. I have a stage 2 charger at home where my car is plugged in. I have left the key fob in the car, and have the Ford pass on my phone.
after 8 days, my car was on the charger and at 100% . Had the cabin temp set for 815am, got the alert it was at temp. Didn’t drive the car as it’s spring break here and no school! Went to use the car at 245pm,and the car was in deep sleep mode.
towed to Ford, jumped it to get hood open,used electric door code to enter The car. 36 hours later same thing.
they are saying it’s because the key fob has been left in the car and is draining the battery. I think it’s a software issue. Has anyone else left their fob in their car and able to comment?

When my car is in the garage, the fob sits in the console in the car. I've left it that way for up to 3 days (not plugged in) without issue.
It sounds to me like your car needs the 21B02 update.

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