CHeil402

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This has already been discussed on this forum many times over the past few months. The answer is that, no, it won't work, unless your 12V battery is already dead. And you wont' be able to get into the car itself without the Fob.
I know it's been discussed a lot, but I wasn't sure if it was ever verified.
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ChasingCoral

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I know it's been discussed a lot, but I wasn't sure if it was ever verified.
Stated by Ford: yes
Appears that way in the wiring diagrams: yes
Tested by one of us: not that I know of.

I know I could have tested this when I had my issues this weekend. I considered it but was short on time.
 

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Stated by Ford: yes
Appears that way in the wiring diagrams: yes
Tested by one of us: not that I know of.

I know I could have tested this when I had my issues this weekend. I considered it but was short on time.
Don't forget to test if a 9V battery works to pop it :p
 


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This is unacceptable. My 2012 Ford Focus Electric was designed better. If it's plugged in, the 12V gets a trickle charge. I know this because I occasionally have to hard reset the car by disconnecting and re-connecting the 12 battery. The other day I did this while forgetting to remove the J1772. I was surprised the car stayed alive while I held the 12V battery cable in my hand, detached from the battery. I would hope Ford could do an OTA update that can siphon a few mA off the HV pack to keep the 12V alive. The logic would be super simple to program.

I don't mind the quirks with my FFE because it's a compliance car that I was never supposed to have here in Missouri. I expected weird things and lived with them. I have much higher expectations for a $50K vehicle that's being sold nationwide. Hard to believe Ford didn't encounter this during cold temperature testing.
 

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Stated by Ford: yes
Appears that way in the wiring diagrams: yes
Tested by one of us: not that I know of.

I know I could have tested this when I had my issues this weekend. I considered it but was short on time.
The poster of the following video replied in the comment section that it only works when the LVB is dead:
 

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This is unacceptable. My 2012 Ford Focus Electric was designed better. If it's plugged in, the 12V gets a trickle charge. I know this because I occasionally have to hard reset the car by disconnecting and re-connecting the 12 battery. The other day I did this while forgetting to remove the J1772. I was surprised the car stayed alive while I held the 12V battery cable in my hand, detached from the battery. I would hope Ford could do an OTA update that can siphon a few mA off the HV pack to keep the 12V alive. The logic would be super simple to program.

I don't mind the quirks with my FFE because it's a compliance car that I was never supposed to have here in Missouri. I expected weird things and lived with them. I have much higher expectations for a $50K vehicle that's being sold nationwide. Hard to believe Ford didn't encounter this during cold temperature testing.
Was it? Have you had your 2012 Focus from 2012? If you have you're forgetting a lot!

"Stop Safely Now" ring a bell? (The SSN thread on the Focus Electric forums was the longest thread; easily the most posted to thread on the site)

The 2012 Focus was notorious for killing 12V batteries; it wasn't until around 2014 when Ford fixed that with a software update.

My 2013 FFE Killed its 12V battery a couple of times.
 

MarknKC

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Was it? Have you had your 2012 Focus from 2012? If you have you're forgetting a lot!

"Stop Safely Now" ring a bell? (The SSN thread on the Focus Electric forums was the longest thread; easily the most posted to thread on the site)

The 2012 Focus was notorious for killing 12V batteries; it wasn't until around 2014 when Ford fixed that with a software update.

My 2013 FFE Killed its 12V battery a couple of times.
I've had it since 2014. Ironically it had been returned to Ford under the NY lemon law because it had been taken to the dealer three times for, wait for it, a dead 12V battery! lol

Mine has died a few times, but always in my garage and always when I had left it unplugged and undriven for a few days. When I said "designed better" I meant that the 12V battery won't die if my FFE is plugged in.

Didn't mean to trigger any yellow wrench PTSD, Jamie! Sorry!
 

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The poster of the following video replied in the comment section that it only works when the LVB is dead:
Glad I saw the video posted here! Removing the rear panel to directly access the battery looks to be WAY easier than removing the left (driver) side panel!
 

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Stated by Ford: yes
Appears that way in the wiring diagrams: yes
Tested by one of us: not that I know of.
Exactly!
That's kind of why I brought it up. I'm sure that's the design intent.

But this entire thread is about things not working properly!
 

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This is unacceptable. My 2012 Ford Focus Electric was designed better. If it's plugged in, the 12V gets a trickle charge. I know this because I occasionally have to hard reset the car by disconnecting and re-connecting the 12 battery. The other day I did this while forgetting to remove the J1772. I was surprised the car stayed alive while I held the 12V battery cable in my hand, detached from the battery. I would hope Ford could do an OTA update that can siphon a few mA off the HV pack to keep the 12V alive. The logic would be super simple to program.

I don't mind the quirks with my FFE because it's a compliance car that I was never supposed to have here in Missouri. I expected weird things and lived with them. I have much higher expectations for a $50K vehicle that's being sold nationwide. Hard to believe Ford didn't encounter this during cold temperature testing.
When the Mach E is plugged in to an EVSE it charges the LVB as well. The issue is when it is not plugged in.
 

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damn 35ah is quite small. Well we'll see what Ford says. Hopefully this gets resolved soon. Id like to see it be a bit bigger.
It also doesn't have to turn a starter!
 

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The poster of the following video replied in the comment section that it only works when the LVB is dead:
Correct. They were stating what Ford had said. I doubt the dealer was letting them pull the battery leads and run a test in the showroom.
 

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Agreed. But in addition to the keyhole, it would also need a mechanical way to physically open the door or trunk. Even if the car is unlocked, there’s no way to get in without power since all of the latches are electronic.
Actually the door-lock levers on the inside have mechanical cables. If you pull back far enough they will mechanically unlock the door. That only helps here if the window is rolled down.
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